My first diesel,,, now, will not start.

[punkytuu]

My 05 diesel will not start. It turns over good, and is trying to fire here and there, but will not start. I drove this to kansas city from dallas 3 weeks ago with no trouble at all, and around town 3 or 4 times since then and was starting good but running rough until fully warmed up, and then ran good. I do not know any of the history of this 147,000 mi. truck. What should I look for? any help would be great.

[dtpatt21]

how good are your batteries? If they are turning it over fast enough, it won't start...

**edit** I didn't see the part about it running rough...until I reread it...

[SteveBricks]

The best place to start would be to pull codes from the on board diagnostics and post them here.

[punkytuu]

how do I get the codes? I have a scan gauge II but it doesn't come on when I plug into this truck. I also have a generic obd II code reader and have not tried it yet.

[bismic]

Carry out the following preliminary checks:

Automatic transmission fully in PARK or NEUTRAL?

Clutch pedal fully pressed?

Battery connections (including ground) - all good?

Starter relay connections - all good?

Battery load test OK?

Fuse links - all good?

Anti-theft.

Ignition switch working?

Powertrain control module (PCM) connectors or Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) wiring harness may not be fully seated - check it.

Then it could be ........................

SYSTEM/COMPONENT

Check Fuel Pump Pressure

Check Parameter Identification (PIDs)

Check Engine Oil Pressure

Carry out the KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test (Click Test)

Check Fuel Quality

Fuel Injector Control Module (FICM)

Check Glow Plug Module Power Circuit

Check Glow Plug Control Module

Check Glow Plugs

Check Glow Plug Connectors

Check for Injection Control Pressure (ICP) Sensor Bias

Check the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System

Then ..............

Hard start - no start conditions related to the HPOP could be attributed to the following components in the high poressure oil system (air test while hot will determine the root cause):

http://www.*****************.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11583&page=2

Leaking snap-to-connect (STC) fitting

Leaky or cracked branch tube

Leaky or cracked oil rail (including oil rail end caps/plugs)

Leaky o-ring on an injector

HPOP itself

Then it could be .............

Wire Chaffing Locations
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...1&d=1208412696
FICM and ICP harness recall
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-13.php
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-11.php
mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech12_250k.wmv

[69cj]

Originally Posted by punkytuu

My 05 diesel will not start. It turns over good, and is trying to fire here and there, but will not start. I drove this to kansas city from dallas 3 weeks ago with no trouble at all, and around town 3 or 4 times since then and was starting good but running rough until fully warmed up, and then ran good. I do not know any of the history of this 147,000 mi. truck. What should I look for? any help would be great.

Confer with me Mark but this seems to be a common occurance with used trucks with no history. Change the fuel filters #1. #2, the oil fires the injectors. If it is old or has AM filters, that also is a common problem. If you get this ironed out do a full service of the truck so that you know where you are with it. These can be good trucks but they are anal about proper maintenance.

[bismic]

Originally Posted by 69cj

Confer with me Mark but this seems to be a common occurance with used trucks with no history. Change the fuel filters #1. #2, the oil fires the injectors. If it is old or has AM filters, that also is a common problem. If you get this ironed out do a full service of the truck so that you know where you are with it. These can be good trucks but they are anal about proper maintenance.

You are 100% correct!

The first thing I ever due w/ a used vehicle purchase is to change the fluids and filters. Who knows what the previous owner did. On our 6.0L trucks, you MUST use the OEM filters and the proper fluids - period.

I would also recommend having the processors updated (flashed).

Also a load test on BOTH batteries and a check on the charging system is well advised.

On our trucks, I would also recommend pulling the EGR valve and inpsectin and clean (also clean the MAP sensor hose and the EBP tube). I chose to install a new EGR valve - there was a production run of bad valves.

Thanks 69cj for pulling me back to basics. After the basics are covered, you can begin all the detailed troubleshooting.

[06silvercrew]

Good friend (and co-worker, he's our lube tech, retired fella) just bought a '04 6.0. He is very "frugal" (aka-cheap azz) and I cant get it through his head how picky these trucks are about service! I told him to fully service the truck, oil, fuel filters, coolant, trans, diff fluid. His philosophy is well the oil change sticker says it was just changed. My point is, if you service it with all the QUALITY and proper products, you know what your working with and have piece of mind that its right.

[punkytuu]

First of all,,,,, THANK YOU ALL for the great info so far.

While out, yesterday, I located and picked up the motorcraft 2016 oil filter ,and motorcraft 15/40 diesal oil for the oil side and the 4604 fuel filters as well. I will change the oil and the three filters mentioned & I will check the egr valve and the other things stated & try again. I did a load test on the batteries with one of those "heavy duty" analog meter type load testers and the needle barely dropped. It stayed in the "good" range. But with trying to start it so much, yesterday, they went down pretty low and have recharged them overnight with an automatic charger. Last night, it actually tried to stay running for about 5-10 seconds if I put the pedel to the floor and hold it there. (I have a 1992 fuel injected Isuzu rodeo and that is the only way it will start sometimes.) I do not drive this truck everyday and I do remember the last two times I started this after sitting for 2-4 days, it started and died and had to restart it again, and once everything was warmed up, it ran very good and would start right up for the duration of that outing. I still am in the dark on "pulling the codes" from this truck. Until I can get a manual for this truck, other than the one in the glovebox, this forum is, and will continue to be a lifesaver.

[punkytuu]

Well I changed the oil and filter, changed the fuel filters as well. checked and cleaned the egr valve and was pretty dirty. No change in starting. It still is firing occasionally, but will not stay running more than a few fires. I do not know enough to check the other items mentioned. I also do not know where or have the tools to check the fuel or oil pressure. I will have it towed to my dealer for now and will get better educated for future troubles.

[npccpartsman]

I'm voting STC fitting in the HPOP system. 05's were notorious for it and who knows how many are running around with the old fitting and it's just now failing.

[bismic]

It sounds very much like a high pressure oil issue (leak or pump problem). Sorry the simple things did not fix it. Be sure and tell the dealership that you just recently did the oil and fuel filter maintenance. Make sure you get the updated flash on the processors. I am sure they will, but always good to ask.

I do not have any experience w/ code readers. I just borrow the one from the Local Autozone when I need it.

Did you look over the links on wire chaffing? Probably a long shot, but easy enough to do.

Also, there was a bad batch of EGR valves a few years ago - so cleaning yours may not have been all that was needed. Usually a bad EGR valve will throw a code though.
Whenever you clean the EGR valve, you should make sure the MAP sensor hose and the EBP tube are not clogged.

Keep us informed.

[jboczar]

Fuel is checked at the secondary fuel filter housing in the engine compartment, there is a plug that needs a 6mm allen to remove it. Match up the threads and borrow a fuel gauge from a local autoparts store, usually they will let you have it with a deposit. You definetly need your codes checked. I doubt it is high pressure oil related because even when they have a leak, if it will fire up and run for a second then the pump is usually spinning fast enough to overcome any leak. If it "knocks" real bad when its trying to fire then its fuel injector related. Its probably either a fuel supply issue or a bad FICM.

[bismic]

Originally Posted by jboczar

Fuel is checked at the secondary fuel filter housing in the engine compartment, there is a plug that needs a 6mm allen to remove it. Match up the threads and borrow a fuel gauge from a local autoparts store, usually they will let you have it with a deposit. You definetly need your codes checked. I doubt it is high pressure oil related because even when they have a leak, if it will fire up and run for a second then the pump is usually spinning fast enough to overcome any leak. If it "knocks" real bad when its trying to fire then its fuel injector related. Its probably either a fuel supply issue or a bad FICM.

Shouldn't a bad FICM have quite a few codes that his scangauge would have picked up?

Edit:
OOPs - I mis-read (or mis-remembered) his post on the scangauge (I thought he meant he did not get any codes). Autozone has loaned me a code reader (for a sizeable deposit) in the past - if you do not get one of your code readers to work.

Here is what you need to hook up a gauge to the fuel filter housing plug:

http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php?c...on=show_detail

Here are pics of the fuel filter housing plug:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...s002medium.jpg
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=11398

I have read that you need the right adapter to plug into this port or you can crack the housing.

[playboy087]

I have a 2007 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel. I was out of town for 8 days and my truck was not driven at all. The TBC was not on before I left. The TBC Fault has been on since I returned 2 days ago. Do you think it could be the HPOP or could it be something different?