so the tranny in my 91 areostar went out about 5 years ago. first car and i wasnt about to let it go so i am currently putting in a 302 5.0L with and auto in from a 88 merc wagon.
It's been done before, but it's a real job. All the ones that I recall are carbed and I'm sure the vapor lock hits them during the summer months. If I was going to do one, I'd have it fuel injected. Let us know how it all works out.
the way you put engine in is a bit unusual for me. retrofiting other engine we use to do the other way.
#1. We measure donor vehicle x-member to know what a distannce betveen engine mpunts. Then we use to mark centerline of x-member
#2. we measure aceptor vehicle engine mounts and mark centerline of x-member
#3. we cut riviets and get donor mounts removed
#4 we cut aceptor's mounts, mark positon of donor mounts (brackets) and drill holes to keep mounts distance like donot engine have.
#5. install donor engine mounts brakets with "cold riviets" ore with bolts. to weld is not recommended
#6. Put engine in. If does not fit, remove TB ore oil pan. Mercedes engine had bigger oil pan and TB and some cutting and welding were required
Just've forgitten to say. before you pull out stock powertrain, measure DS installation angles to have tranny shaft and axe pinion lined in else you may get vibrations and shorter UJs life.
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And makes us rather bear those ills we have
Than fly to others that we know not of?
ohhh good idea im glad i havent scraped the the woody yet, cus im doing that on tueday. and thats the part im currently at now. putting the motor on the sub frame.my other worry is if i have enough clerance at the top with the carb though
ohhh good idea im glad i havent scraped the the woody yet, cus im doing that on tueday. and thats the part im currently at now. putting the motor on the sub frame.my other worry is if i have enough clerance at the top with the carb though
There are two ways to solve. First - pull out dash, cut a hole in upper doghouse wall and weld a box. The other way my friend did - cut TB and becouse TB was too tall and weld it againe to short it for 1".
Also he had oil pan clearance problem too and oil pan was redused a bit and now a quart of oil less there.
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And makes us rather bear those ills we have
Than fly to others that we know not of?
well the woody is now out of the way so now i can get back to the project.
does anybody know what kind of disty i need to go carb? i can get a good answer from anybody.
What kind of distributor was in the 88 Merc? Was it controlled by EEC-IV? Was it fuel injected or carbed?
All Windsor style small block Ford (255, 260, 289, 302) v8s used the same base design for the distributor. But the EEC versions have no provisions for centrifugal or vacuum advance; they are all controlled by the EEC. If the 88 Merc had EFI, even TBI or bank-fired, you might consider keeping it with the engine, and use its distributor. Otherwise, you will need to find an older distributor that has at least centrifugal advance.
I think stock distributors on all older cars that did not have computer controlled timing had both centrifugal and vacuum advance. Some also had vacuum retard for those severe emission control years. In the late 70's Ford installed EEC-II/III into cars with either the feedback carburetor or TBI, and had the EEC control the ignition advance. From there on, none of the Ford distributors had any built-in advance capability.
If you want to install the engine with a standard carburetor and no EEC control, you will need an old style distributor with at least the centrifugal advance. It will be the simplest set up. But the EFI system will give you better drivability and emissions, if you can set it up right.
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A 302 in a areostar
