The squeeking was driving me crazy!!! My X has 69K miles and I knew it was time to change the ball joints. I spent the last two days (15 hours) doing the job... time would have been much shorter if it wasn't for my OCD .
With the right tools, and the internet almost anything can be accomplished if you have the confidence to tackle the job!! .
I did not realize how bad the ball joints actually were. When I did the "test" I could move what wheels what seemed like at least 1/4 inch up & down... way too much play.
Here's some helpful hints and the links to into I used.
1.) Racerguy's thread was what gave me the confidence to do the job.
I got my "rental" tools from Advance Auto. The Ball Joint kit is the heavy duty type with a retail value of $169... it had all the parts needed... it was extra-heavy duty. I got the 2 / 3 Clawed puller too... I used the 3 inch and 2 claws for the tie-rod ends and the 3 clawed 6 inch parts to pull the hubs. GET THIS... without it, I know it would have been a itch to get them off.
To pound off the knuckle I went to Autozone and got the #27021 Pitman Arm Puller. It was wide enough and took the punishment of my 8 pound BFH like a trooper. This tool was a "free rental" too.
The kit does not include the autohub O-rings so I went to my local FoMoGuy and got them for 12 bucks.
I went to Sears and got the 1 1/8 socket for the upper and got the 33mm socket for the lower nut at Autozone... BTW... the Moogs upper and lower nuts are both 33mm.
While I was at Sears I picked up their biggest 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and their best snap-ring plyers. (both were around 26 bucks each).
You can never have enough tools in the tool cabinet!!!
Of course... I have a big air-compressor and air tools (a must to use the ball-joint press.)
So... right now I am basking in an overwhelming glow of self accomplishment... the most important thing was I saved at least one travel hockey (Mite A / son Bryant) season's fees doing it myself.
__________________ BOB Spelled backwards is BOB.
2005 EXCURSION--Eddie Bauer--4x4--V-10 Dale JarrettFORD / NASCARSpecial Edition
I was going to make the driver... but during my "research" for the job I read that a couple of guys who made the seal driver had to fabricate their home made driver... I felt 60 bucks was well worth it.
__________________ BOB Spelled backwards is BOB.
2005 EXCURSION--Eddie Bauer--4x4--V-10 Dale JarrettFORD / NASCARSpecial Edition
I made the special tool and it worked like a charm!
Just did mine this past weekend. 15 hours to do the job, plus replace both tie rods and drag links. It's the largest job I've tackled, but not the most difficult. I would definitely set aside a couple of days (unless you've done it before or are just that good) so that you don't feel rushed. It is not a quick (or easy) task to go back in to do something you forgot. Not to mention all of the seals to make sure your ESOF system continues to work (if you have it).
It still has a little bit of play in the center, but expect that to be from the steering box (the redhead gearbox wasn't in the budget this time).
With all new joints, it drives SO much better! It pretty much eliminated the wander and almost all of the slop in the steering.
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 187K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
You should feel great about doing it yourself! I am getting hit up for $925 to have the local Ford dealership do my front upper & lowers & seals. I don't have the time to even think about doing it myself right now, but wish I did. Nicely done.
Felt good getting it done myself...it was nerve racking putting it all back together....i put the dust cover on the wrong way three times on the first side, but you better believe i won't make that mistake again......what a relief when i was done and had no extra parts.
the only issue i had was loosing the nut the held the tie rod on....my air wrench pulled that sucker off so fast that it went zipping on to oblivian and luckily my buddy let me do the job at his body shop on his lift and he just so happened to have a wrecked F250 in the lot that i was able to grab the nut from on Sat night when i knew i would have to wait till mon. to get another one.
Question, how do you "test" to see if your ball joints are bad? I had the front end lifted on jack stands to install my new Rancho Steering Stabilizer and tried to move the front tires up and down and I did not experience any play at all.
This is a great write up.If anyone would like to repair their ball joints we do carry the Moogs and a very good alternative.I'd be happy to help answer any questions you may have.
Before I disassembled the rotor/hub/knuckle I took a quick pic of it and printed a 8 x 10 on the printer and taped it to the fender...
My best piece of advice... Don't rush yourself.
I set everything besides itself, but didn't do the picture trick. Combine that with rushing to finish at the end and I had to take my hub off 2 extra times (once to put the dust shield on and another to put the dust shield on correctly ).
I got my ball joints from http://www.rockauto.com/. They were a great price (I think they were the least expensive) and shipping was like $7. I highly recommend them.
I got everything else from a local Ford dealership (they are not near me, but give me a discount because I'm in the military...and buy a lot of parts). I walked in with my list and asked what they could do for me. Between the amount of stuff I was buying and my military affiliation, they were pretty close to fleet price on everything. Take into account the shipping for some of the bigger stuff and I saved a TON of money.
Just throwing that out there. Sometimes it's worth the drive to find a friendly parts counter guy...
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 187K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
I've got the "squeeks". 80,000 on my '04 Ex.
I did'nt yet have time to look thru all the threads. But can you guys ball park, what parts/special tools might cost vs. what I should expect a good shop to charge?
thnks!
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almost anything can be accomplished if you have the confidence to tackle the job!! 
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BOB Spelled backwards is BOB.
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