BALL JOINTS - My turn - HELPFUL HINTS/LINKS

[ncheavymetal]

Nice work. Great information. Sent you some rep points but forgot to comment.

[brian42]

Originally Posted by Ex Factor

I've got the "squeeks". 80,000 on my '04 Ex.
I did'nt yet have time to look thru all the threads. But can you guys ball park, what parts/special tools might cost vs. what I should expect a good shop to charge?
thnks!

You can make the one special tool you need or you can buy it here: http://www.dieselorings.com/index.ph...at=15&group=12.

The ball joints will run you just under $200 shipped (if you get Moogs from www.rockauto.com). Form there it's what you want to replace as far as seals (locking hub, hub to knuckle and axle to hub) and parts while you're in there (I did my tie rods too since I took them off).

Since I had 181K, I figured the seals had lived a good life and replaced them. Here are the parts I got (all of them are OEM from the dealership except the ball joints and adjustment tubes are Moog from www.rockauto.com). Next to them is the MSRP from my dealership except the Moog stuff, that's from Rock Auto ($7 shipping):

Upper ball joint (Moog K80026) $36.79
Lower ball joint (Moog K8607T) $55.79
Hub assembly (fine thread) (3C3Z-1104-BA) $350.73
.....The hub assembly includes:
.......................Hub-to-knuckle studs (F81Z-1107-AA) $17.20
.......................Hub-to-knuckle seal (yellow o-ring on the hub) (F81Z-4A322-AA) $8.22
Hub seal (inner hub-to-axle) (F81Z-3254-CB) $44.92
Axle seal (dust seal) (F81Z-15175H-CA) $23.30
Hub cavity o-ring (black o-ring that goes on the locking hub) (4C3Z-1K106-AA) $16.35
Right outer tie rod (longer passenger side tie rod) (4C3Z-3A131-AD) $224.95
Left outer tie rod (shorter driver's side tie rod) (4C3Z-3A131-AC) $96.18
Adjustment tube (tie rod) (Moog ES3422S) $15.67
Adjustment tube (drag link) (Moog ES3426S) $15.67
Inner tie rod (longer outer drag link) (8C3Z-3A131-J) $149.98
Center link (shorter inner drag link) (8C3Z-3304-G) $82.63

I built the special tool for about $17 from Home Depot and had it ground down at a machine shop on a metal lathe and it worked like a charm.

I know not everybody cares about all the parts I used, but you can never have too many part numbers! You never know when you'll need them.

Also, the Moogs from Rock Auto came with new nuts and the appropriate zerks too (straight for the bottom and the 90 degree for the top).

[cbradford]

I had to grind the 90 degree zerk fitting to clear the axle U-joint that came with the MOOG ball joints.

[dave91gt]

I had my local dealership change the uppers and lowers on both sides of my previous F250 diesel. They only charged me $500 total. I dropped it off before work and picked it up after. I had zero time to do it and not enough tools. They may get the nod to do the ones on my X. It was way too convenient. Other independent shops wanted $600-700.

[GreenExcursion]

Thanks for the links!

[71-4R3SONS]

Originally Posted by GreenExcursion

Thanks for the links!

You're welcome!!!

[dvldog458]

Awesome links!
I have to do mine this week. This will help me out alot.

[71-4R3SONS]

Originally Posted by dvldog458

This will help me out alot.

Glad to help... hope all goes well!!!









MY MODS

[Sonny Dee]

Originally Posted by 71-4R3SONS

Thanks!

"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"

Before I disassembled the rotor/hub/knuckle I took a quick pic of it and printed a 8 x 10 on the printer and taped it to the fender...

My best piece of advice... Don't rush yourself.

I'm guessing you are responsible for all the pictures and step by step write-up. I have to congraduate you on an excellent job.
I had to tackle a bad drivers hub and very bad upper ball joints on an early 99 SD. I found your display and saved it on my pc, then had the pc sitting on the hood and went at it.
We have 1 99 and 2-2000 super duty duallys in the family so I went an bought the press and a pitman puller. I do have a complete set of air tools, made a seal installer and with that and your fine instructions.....definitely a feeling of accomplishment. Thanks for your fine work.

[71-4R3SONS]

Originally Posted by Sonny Dee

I'm guessing you are responsible for all the pictures and step by step write-up.

No, I am not responsible for the write up I listed as the "best of the bunch"... Credit for that goes to 1975StroppeBaja... Jason did a great job for sure!

All I did was compile a list of what I thought were sites that would be useful and also some hints I consider helpful to the job.

[dvldog458]

I did my ball joints today...all went well with your help!
I did have to replace my wheel bearing assy on the drivers side......$300 later and I'm good to go!

[Sonny Dee]

Originally Posted by dvldog458

I did my ball joints today...all went well with your help!
I did have to replace my wheel bearing assy on the drivers side......$300 later and I'm good to go!

Glad to hear I could help and it all worked out well for you. That seems to be the way it works here, someone helps you and you pass along the good and the bad from your experience and it makes someone else's job a little easier. I finally got to tackle the spring clip on the stub axle problem I had and I got the bar in the right spot, had my wife hold pressure on it and the clip slid right on, again from the help of others here. I got raped by Fraud in Jan coming back from Fl and making it to SC. Had a cracked fuel rail in the head and 7K later I was back on the road with a pile of troubles that went with it and still dealing with it. I made a vow never again will a Fraud dealer touch my vehicle. Tnx for the post, Sonny