Now the mileage is 161,900. Just replaced a leaking pressure hose out of the power steering pump. I hope that fixes the leak. There's still some noise coming from the pump. It's less but it still sounds like a pump that's low on fluid.
Ford really made it hard to take out the power steering pump. Have to either take off the pulley or the bracket that the power steering pump is attached to along with the AC compressor.
The DonKo overheated pulling a big horse trailer from Butte to Billings. There's a couple of mountain passes of around 6500 feet high. The problem appears to be that the water pump is not pumping. There's no water leaking from the pump and the bearings are not rattleing.
I'm wondering if it's possible that the wrong water pump got installed. This 5.0L engine has a serpentine belt that rotates the water pump opposite the direction of the crank. If a regular rotation water pump was put on, would there be some way of telling?
I have started taking the water pump off. I drained the radiator and the recovery tank. Let me say that there was an incredible amount of rust colored water coming out of the radiator and the recovery tank. I'm definetly going to get a new water pump instead of a remanufactured one. I might even go with a Ford water pump. I don't want to have to do this again.
So tomorrow I have to take the AC and the PS bracket off, there's still alot of oil build up on that bracket. I'm going to try to take off the thermostat before i take off the water pump so that I can flush the engine using the water exit to put water in and use the water pump for the flush out water.
There's a good radiator shop in town that I've used before, I'll take the rad over there tomorrow and explain about the rust. The question would be, is the water not flowing because the radiator is clogged with rust or is the water not flowing because the water pump fins have rusted off?
I'm not going to take out the heater core to have it boiled out because I think I can flush it pretty good with it still in the truck.
I'm hoping that no bolts break off during the removal.
Rusted off fins are exceedingly unlikely. You probably just have a neglected cooling system, now full of rust and other sediment. You may need a new radiator, or the old one need to be cleaned really well.
Well, if rusted off fins are exceedingly unlikely, then the radiator must be plugged to the point where it's not flowing. The radiator is at the shop now, it'll be done monday. Ford has a new water pump available tomorrow for just north of Ben Franklin country.
I've seen fanatics over in the Mercedes Benz Forum that wouldn't blink twice about getting a new water pump for that price from their Mercedes Dealer, but when a new pump is available from Orieliy's at less than half what Ford wants, I'll have to blink a few times. OK, I'm done blinking, the Ford water pump should be here tomorrow, start laughing.
I got the water pump off and aurgathor was correct there was no rust damage on the inside of the orginal Ford water pump at all.
There was a large build up of what I'm assuming to be a "Leak Stop" product. It's rust colored and clay consistency. It's in the non-flowing cavities of the water pump.
So it might be that this excess "Leak Stop" product clogged up the radiator to the point where it won't flow.
The radiator will be done Monday. Ford says the new water pump will be in tomorrow (Friday) after noon, but I doubt it.
I went by the radiator shop to get a look inside the radiator after he took the tanks off but he hadn't taken the tanks off yet, so I'll talk to him Monday, he's taking Friday off.
Got the DonKo back together this morning and everything seems to be working according to Ford. The temperature guage works, normally the guage stays on the N in "Normal". It goes up to cover the "o" when the heat is on and when cold it's below the "C"
No leaks and everything got cleaned before getting put back. 162,600 miles now. I think brake fluid replacement next, or transmission filter. There's a softness in the brake pedal that I don't like and a slight slipping in Overdrive. It doesn't slip all the time in Overdrive, just slightly on a regular basis, like every 5th rotation, like it's low on fluid. The Kickdown works good and no slipping in Drive.
Update on the Gasoline Mileage, just refilled with 19 gallons of premium, Conoco. I went 505 miles on 36.088 gallons, that figures to almost 14 miles per gallon, 13.994.
The check engine light comes on at regular times, engine warm, coasting downhill or crusing on the flat, not fast but about 60 miles per hour. The codes were Continuous Memory 41 and 32.
Check engine light goes off when the truck is turned off. I've checked the EGR sensor and the valve operates under an artificial vacuum. I'm thinking that the vacuum solenoid is not sending vacuum to the valve as required by the ECM and that sets a code. I'm still in the process of troubleshooting.
I'm starting to clean the interior, starting with the drivers side door plastic. The body tabs are not holding and might need to be replaced and the plastic panel rattles as a result.
Can you give a little detail on what you found inside the fuel tank? Do you think there was enough debris to clog the sock filter? Did you have the tank cleaned and lined with coating?
It sounds like you are doing a good job so far, and you have good intuition on the problems you are overcoming. Keep up the good work!
Truck now has 163,600, miles. The tank was not hot tanked to clean it out or lined with a coating. I wanted to see if this was going to solve the issue with fuel pressure. The fuel pump is making noise that I think might be too loud indicating that it might be failing. When I replace the fuel pump I'll have the tank hot tanked at a radiator shop to clean it up good. No coating is necessary at this time but I'll consider it.
I've gotten the new fuel pump, from Ford of course, 275 marked down from 325. Ohhh, thanks Brooks Hanna Ford. And of course it doesn't have the same electrical connection, gotta splice in the new one to the existing wiring harness. It's only 4 wires tho, power and ground for the pump, wire for fuel level sender and ground for that. it came with a fuel tank gasket but not a locking ring, which sucks.
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