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No-start check:
-Fuel. Look into the carb with the aircleaner off, work the throttle. You should see fuel spray from the accelerator pump. Even if the carb is in need of a rebuild and cleaning, if you have fuel this way, it is enough to fire and run, even if poorly.
-Fire: Pull a plug, ground it, check for spark. Work backwards. Plug wires, even if in poor condition, will still fire some. Cap, rotor, points, condensor. Dirty inside the dizzy? Pull the parts and clean it up. Other wires? Hot wire it to check ignition switch etc. (wire from battery to + side of coil) Of course, check the plugs for condition, but even worn plugs will fire. (job one, make it run. THEN replace parts to make it run better. Plugs with some miles on them are not the problem here. Plugs with no electrodes left, well, yes, replace them all)
-Timing chain. A timing chain off one or two teeth will crank with no fire. With the cap off the distributor, rotate the engine by hand until the rotor moves. Then reverse the rotation. If it crank moves 1/8 turn without rotor movement, time to pull the front cover and replace the chain and sprokets. Timing should be 6 degrees btdc for 2bbl, or 12 for 4bbl, or variations around those numbers for best running.
-Back to fire: Point gap. I used .016 with good luck.
-Fuel: The top of the carb comes off easy--check inside for crud and plugged needle, jets etc.
-carb to manifold seal, especially with carb spacer for pcv or preheat. I had to used two gaskets due to small irregularities that would not seal with one gasket.
Is it a hi-po solid lifter motor? Improper valve adjustment can cause the valves to not seat, killing compression. Unlikely, but if someone has been working on that, recheck.
It's been 28 years and I miss my 289 every day.
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that will not start. He says it cranks but won't fire off. Sounded like he wasn't getting any spark so he replaced the coil. Still won't fire off. Any suggestions? 
