The "Stand pipe" in the center unscrews, "LEFT HAND" thread. Use a crows foot , not sure but a 7/8" comes to mind. Once that is out you can unplug the heater wire and have total access to the bottom. "LEFT HAND" thread.
Rog
__________________ 1997 Red 4X2 CC S/B-3" DP- No Kitty-6637
Cooling Sys. Filter-6 Pos.PHP Chip-140V IDM
The "Cure"-1.0 Turbo-Detroit Locker.
Cadillac Battery Water.
1998 Black Ranger 4X4 4.0 Auto. 102K miles.
Thanks Kawa. I pulled it apart and cleaned everything really good. The screen was pretty junky as well. The fuel bowl heater element was really bad and falling apart so I just took it out.
The reason I did this is due to a lack of power. The power has been steadily decreasing for awhile. I took it for a drive after the cleaning and didnt really notice a difference.
I'm still stuck on why I dont have any power. I'm wondering if I should tear apart my FPR assembly and see if its plugged a little as well.
I have tried a lot of different things and I still keep coming back to thinking it is fuel starved.
__________________
97 PSD CrewCab 4x4
7.3 DI
Auto Trans
33.5 x 12.5 x 16.5 tires
CAT gutted, 3" DP
I looked for boost leaks. The Map sensor looks great and the two rubber orange connections going to the turbo could be better but there are no holes.
What I did find is the longer orange boot that connects right to the turbo (right before the turbo fan) was pretty tore up. Especially right at the end where the clamp is.
So, I have two questions:
1. would this be causing my no power problem and
2. can I get this part at the local parts store (Autozone etc.)?
Thanks for your help.
__________________
97 PSD CrewCab 4x4
7.3 DI
Auto Trans
33.5 x 12.5 x 16.5 tires
CAT gutted, 3" DP
The screen is inside your fuel bowl housing directly to your right (drivers side). If you look in the hole where the fuel exits the bowl you will see a small screen about half way into the hole. Mine was pretty plugged. I used some cotton qtips to clean it good then used a tooth pick to make sure all the holes were open.
__________________
97 PSD CrewCab 4x4
7.3 DI
Auto Trans
33.5 x 12.5 x 16.5 tires
CAT gutted, 3" DP
I looked for boost leaks. The Map sensor looks great and the two rubber orange connections going to the turbo could be better but there are no holes.
What I did find is the longer orange boot that connects right to the turbo (right before the turbo fan) was pretty tore up. Especially right at the end where the clamp is.
So, I have two questions:
1. would this be causing my no power problem and
2. can I get this part at the local parts store (Autozone etc.)?
Thanks for your help.
1. Mine is black. Has Someone replaced that boot? or Do you have an Innercooler? Anyway, if it's leaking it can pull dirt into the turbo. This can destroy the impeller. Pull it off and take a look. The blades should be sharp and straight. Post a picture if you're unsure.
A boost gauge would really be helpful at this point....however:
Another way to check for leaks is with soapy water. Spray the connections, have someone rev the engine while you watch.
BTW: You might need to block the air coming off the cooling fan to see the leaks....a piece of cardboard should do it.
The map line/turbo connectors can look OK but be plugged, cracked or pin-holed.
I would just replace the MAP line.....easy & cheap insurance.
2. Most auto part stores don't carry the boots try here: CLICK ME
Ford or IH will be expensive.
I have this numbers in my PC
Turbo Intake Hose (Orange Hose)
(International) 1830829C91 or 1820102C2 Turbo Intake Hose (Black Updated Hose Kit)>>
(Ford) F7TZ-9C681-AA F81Z-9C681-AA IH part 1830973C1 (Only Black updated hose)
Not to hijack this thread or anything, but since we were talking about boost. How quickly should the boost rise. This is how mine goes for each gear. Does this sound right. It just seems really slow to me. I thought the boost would rise a little faster. When I did this test i was empty and shifted just over 3k. First gear 6psi max, second gear 11psi max, 3rd gear 14 psi max, 4th gear 17psi max and 5h gear I can only get about 13. Does this sound right.
Not to hijack this thread or anything, but since we were talking about boost. How quickly should the boost rise. This is how mine goes for each gear. Does this sound right. It just seems really slow to me. I thought the boost would rise a little faster. When I did this test i was empty and shifted just over 3k. First gear 6psi max, second gear 11psi max, 3rd gear 14 psi max, 4th gear 17psi max and 5h gear I can only get about 13. Does this sound right.
Nope, something isn't right. You should see close to max boost on every shift IMO. You should start a new thread, more people will read it and answer back to you.
From what I understand the orange boot is the OEM part/color but ford and international dont make it anymore. Roentgeep posted a link for the replacement part.
Cuda, I actually removed the MAP/Boost hoses and completely cleaned and inspected them. I couldnt see anything to make me think they were bad. However, I probably couldnt see a pinhole so I might replace them anyway.
Here is a link to some pics I have taken of the impeller etc.
The test shouldn't be too expensive. Maybe an hour labor or so.
You can test the FP yourself with a cheap tire gauge. I say cheap because it will be junk after you use it.
Most mechanics won't know or have the knowledge to get answers you can rely on unless they specialize in diesels....if so, they will have a scanner that should point you in the right direction. The MAP sensor needs to be checked (PID's) Parameter Identification Data.
The soapy water test is easy and free.
Mine stayed good. I used an old style gauge.
If you could find an even older one with a metal core, you'd probably not junk it.
The seals are what goes bad.
I blew mine out with air from the tire when I was finished. =)
I have a plethera of Fuel bowl pictures now if anyone is looking for where things are at.
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