1976 Bronco engine upgrade

[CPBud1964]

I recently bought a 1976 Ford Bronco, it has a stock 302 with a 2 barrel carb. I would like to update to a 4 barrel carb and as well update the distributor and maybe the cam. Looking for suggestions, I don't want to have to cut a hole in the hood so the new intake manifold and carb needs to fit under the existing hood. Also if I change the cam, do I have to change the lifters/push rod. I am new to the Ford vehicle restore process. Shawn

[PerfDistIgnition]

Originally Posted by CPBud1964

I recently bought a 1976 Ford Bronco, it has a stock 302 with a 2 barrel carb. I would like to update to a 4 barrel carb and as well update the distributor and maybe the cam. Looking for suggestions, I don't want to have to cut a hole in the hood so the new intake manifold and carb needs to fit under the existing hood. Also if I change the cam, do I have to change the lifters/push rod. I am new to the Ford vehicle restore process.

Shawn

Most of the cam manufacturers highly suggest that you run their own brand of lifters.

If you decide to get a new distributor, consider our custom curved Duraspark Distributor built with our new Full Length Oil Impregnated Bronze Bushing. The full length bushing improves timing stability and spark scatter. If stock appearance is not an issue, take a look at our one piece D.U.I. Distributor. Whether you choose the Duraspark or the D.U.I., we curve each on a distributor machine based on your engine combination. Please see them at:
fficeffice" />>>
http://performancedistributors.com/forddistributors.htm
>>
Also, there is now an excellent installation article on the D.U.I. Distributor on the Ford-Trucks.com site at:
>>
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0/358/article/DUI_Ignition_Installation_In_A_Ford_351W_V8.html
>>
Ignition Lesson of the Month: Hystereses, the difference between the timing as the rpm and vacuum increases to the timing as rpm and vacuum decrease, needs to be kept to a minimum. A precise advance curve accomplishes this.
>>

[gfw1985]

Keep the Duraspark, the vendor in last post is rock solid. Upgrade to a RV cam, Edelbrock 2121 intake and Edelbrock 1406 will do the job. At 600 cfm, a little more than you need, but less expensive than the 500cfm. Buying his recurved dizzy to match your combo will really wake things up. While other people prefer the Holley, I find the Edelbrock a lot easier to tweak with their 1487 metering rod, spring and jet kit.
K&N X-Treme 14x2 5/8" w/ filter top will fit nicely under the hood.

[CPBud1964]

Thanks for your info much appreciated.

[CPBud1964]

Thanks very much, this is exactly what I was looking for. I had been looking at the Edelbrock parts and I think I will go that way.

Thanks

[sixty9santa]

Sorry to side track this topic, but I too have a 1976 with a 302. She's also RWD.

The funny thing is that my compression is about 8.0:1 with the stock 58cc heads.
Thus far, I have a Weiand Stealth, a 600cfm carb, performance 14" air cleaner, an MSD ignition, full length 1 5/8" headers, and 2.5" exhaust pipes with an x-pipe and magnaflows.
Basically, I want more oompf (the most I can get) out of her and I do believe a cam swap is next in line. She's also a daily driver.

Going to go for 3.50 gears when more cash is on hand, but the stock 2.75 will have to do for now.

I've done some research, and I would require something that would yield the most dynamic cylinder pressure. Something with 112LSA for least amount of overlap and shorter duration are recommended.
Question is, what cam would be best?
Looking to avoid CompCams.

Thanks in advance!

[gfw1985]

Never seen a 76 Bronco with 2.75 gears. 3.50's are the normal.

[mcdobson]

RWD? 58cc heads?

Unless you have a blower, no cam is going to help you with 8:1 cr.

[Boba Fett]

The real trick is getting an air cleaner to fit under the hood..... I can tell you that the edelbrock performer will fit under the hood with a drop base air cleaner..... this gets more complicated if you go to the wider dist cap with male lugs for the sparkplug wires..... then you need an 11" air cleaner.....

They have taken zinc out of motor oil so be careful if you go with a non-roller cam. If you go non roller and do not run a cam company additive you will wipe the cam.......

You always have to do cam and lifters together. If you change to roller you will have to check pushrod length too.....

Probably better to leave the cam alone and bolt on some 1.7 roller tipped rockers. Its way cheaper to do this and you will get more lift with less hassle......