How much should I pay for replacing front hub?

[EXv10]

Originally Posted by ironmine Hi Greg ... I understand what you are saying (and bb's , when properly working, have a slight positive pressure). But, your method sure is better than nothing. my 2 cents Actually it's a very good idea. I have a post w/pics on it somewhere in here. When I loaded the first one up it forced a little water out also. They each took a whole mini-tube of grease and I'm sure they never had that much in there before. It doesn't come out and get on the rotor either. Just my 9 cents (inflation).

[EXv10]

Originally Posted by Greg B

The wheel bearings are what I was referring about force. If you stand with both feet together you are knocked off your feet much easier than if your feet are spead about shoulder width apart. It's a law of physics. The same applies to front wheel bearings. They are able to withstand more force if they are spread apart as they are in the older trucks than if they are back to back like in the newer trucks. If you understand the principle of leverage then you understand what I'm talking about. That's why I refer to the wheel bearings as being a weakness on these trucks. As for ball joints, it's just the nature of the beast. As heavy as these trucks are it would be difficult to design one that would last longer. It doesn't seem to matter whether they're greasable or not.

I understand but I think that was the intention of the needle bearings. They take the load on the turns and the other bigger ones support staight line driving which is +-90% of the time. Do you know what they are? Double or single row rollers? A ball bearing?

[Chris1450]

Ok.. a little correction here. This isn't Ford's design as far as the front bearing assembly. GM and dudge also use the same design because they also use dana axles. A freind at work is going thru this same problem on his dudge. He is into it over $1100 now. If I heard him correctly, the part numbers are even the same for the bearings on the other makes.

[EXv10]

I don't think it is the bearings fault, I think it is the inability of being able to grease them. I say it is well worth it to pack them through the ABS hole or drill a hole and add a zerk. I have a post on it in here somewhere. After i did my inner and outer hubs all my little binding, clunking, and disengaging problems were gone. My hubs are happy now.

[wolffee]

EXv10,

You seem to have some good insight around here. You were the first to respond to me a few days ago. I have been out of town but back now and more confused then before. I know its not rocket science but I am not getting it. Probably because I havent had it apart yet to see it for myself and seems to be different people are using different terms for different things. Hope you can forgive me. When I have the locking device(hub?) first thing to come off. Manual and lock switch came off with just pliers on snap ring. When I get that off axle shaft is there. I can push up and down on it and it moves opposite up and down right as its coming out of the axle tube as well. So there is movement in two places. inside the knuckle? correct term? and the actual axle as well. so two places from as much as I can see. I guess i need to know exactly what I need to replace before I pull it apart as i cant do the job here at the house. I had to go back to school after being laid off and getting a degree in heavy diesel engines. Over the road and big marine. MTU's Detroits that kinda thing so I am mechanical and have access to a huge shop every toy in the world. Want to know what I need in advance as school is over an hour away and need to drive the truck home at the end of the day. Dont want to get it apart and find im missing pieces.. Already have new Moog joints ready to go in. Just need the bearings? for axle? and what ever I need for the knuckle? is that the hub assembly? the Timken515020. I am familiar with Timken we use all their bearings in our over the road tucks and trust them so thats cool if I can use it on my truck as well. feel confident. if you or any could just break it down like you are going to need this .... this.... and this... going to have both sides apart so going to wanna doing the fix on both sides. so part#s great any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry its long but needed to get all points across so you guys could have all info... appreciate having this site for people who need help

thanks alot

Ryan

[Greg B]

Ryan

If you just want to do an original equipment replacement, then I would go with the Timken replacement hub and bearing assembly for the quickest and least expensive way to get it on the road. Wheel bearings on these rigs can last as long as 100,000+ miles or as little as 50,000 miles dependind on loads, type of roads driven on, and so forth. The Dyna-Trac retro kit that I referred to in earlier posts completely converts the front wheel bearing design to the same as the 97 and older trucks which is stronger and more serviceable. In fact, according to the 97 shop manuals the wheel bearings are supposed to be cleaned and repacked at a 30,000 to 60,000 mile interval with new seals installed. That is the most bullit proof bearing set up for these trucks. Dyna-Trac also makes the retro kits for GM and Dodge 3/4 ton and heavier trucks. If they made one for the F150's I'd be looking into one.

[jeffdoerr]

Wheel bearing and hub assembly on ebay for around $100. They are chinese, but work ok for light duty stuff. Really easy to change, probly a 2 hour project at most. The worst part is replacing the vac seals ($30) And make sure you get a new oring for the hub assembly.

American made bearing will run about $350, get the seals too, either dealer or REAL autoparts stores (Napa, car quest, etc)

[WA.Ranger]

You can buy a brand new TIMKEN with ABS sensor for less than that.

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[ironmine]

Ok.. a little correction here. This isn't Ford's design as far as the front bearing assembly. GM and dudge also use the same design because they also use dana axles. A freind at work is going thru this same problem on his dudge. He is into it over $1100 now. If I heard him correctly, the part numbers are even the same for the bearings on the other makes.

The Dana 60 is a series of axles with many applications, including custom, and has various axle end configurations, even methods of lubrication. My contention was that it was not a failure of Ford's required spec's to Dana, Dana's manufacture of the hub, or even the special grease. But, in the oe's zeal to reduce pm, etc ... the sealing of the hub unit was compromised. Really , it seems to me, something that needed real world testing ---- that couldn't be completely worked out at the engineers' desk. Just my opinion.

During June, I bought hub assy's for my sons' friends, to do their trucks ... a Ford and a Dodge. '02 3/4ton 4wd. I'm pretty certain that they were different part numbers, with different prices. From NAPA. I even got prices from DynaTrac on their FreeSpin upgrade kits for the trucks, because the boys were interested in going to a standard spindle set up to do away with failed bearings. And those part numbers were different. I don't know ... maybe the numbers cross back into each other, etc

I understand but I think that was the intention of the needle bearings. They take the load on the turns and the other bigger ones support staight line driving which is +-90% of the time.

I think the only reason for the needle bearing is to reduce friction between the rotating hub and the shaft.

[wolffee]

OK I am down with the Timkin needle bearing replacement and see how it is one piece lug post and all ABS sensor, cant buy just the bering I got that BUT and forgive me because I have not been in it just yet but I am having trouble with the fact that the axle shaft (driver side) coming out of the axle tube had play up and down at the tube right where it comes out. what is there for bearings or seals there. Obvious there should not be play there. will find out when I do the job but want the parts before I do it...

Ryan

[EXv10]

Originally Posted by ironmine

I think the only reason for the needle bearing is to reduce friction between the rotating hub and the shaft.

?????? How would it do that? If if wasn't there there would be less friction. It is to widen the support of the bearing area to be more like the earlier spread apart bearings.

[EXv10]

Originally Posted by wolffee

OK I am down with the Timkin needle bearing replacement and see how it is one piece lug post and all ABS sensor, cant buy just the bering I got that BUT and forgive me because I have not been in it just yet but I am having trouble with the fact that the axle shaft (driver side) coming out of the axle tube had play up and down at the tube right where it comes out. what is there for bearings or seals there. Obvious there should not be play there. will find out when I do the job but want the parts before I do it...

Ryan

There is no bearing there. There is only a light duty dust seal. The long axle ends are supported by the wheel bearing hub and the stub shaft. Don't forget you can grease your wheel bearings through the ABS hole and needle bearings also.

[WA.Ranger]

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[Jim59]

Originally Posted by EXv10

I understand but I think that was the intention of the needle bearings. They take the load on the turns and the other bigger ones support staight line driving which is +-90% of the time. Do you know what they are? Double or single row rollers? A ball bearing?

you can use ball bearing for axle bearings? thanks

[EXv10]

Originally Posted by Jim59

you can use ball bearing for axle bearings? thanks

Yes , many rear axles have ball bearings and this front hub is a unique arrangement. I would like to know what is inside the hub.