I buy parts from them all the time, some of the best prices around, IMO.
Also, be sure you get the right one for your truck. There are 2 different wheel studs used, 14mmx1.5 and 14mmx2.0.
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Mike
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2001 F350 CC LB 7.3 with a few mods
Wisconsin Chapter Leader JOIN HERE 7.3 Roadside Help Network
Sorry that I didnt get the answer maybe Im having a moment but my driverside (2004 SRW F-350) was making some clunking noises. I took out the hub (manual hubs 2 sec's to pull) and found the drive shaft has play up and down where is it coming out of the axle. So we did say its the bearing in the axle right I would imagine the bearing in the knuckle is bad as well. Can I replace the bearing in the knuckle? Would def imagine the bearing in the axle replace but do I need a whole new knuckle. If so does anyone have part #s for these two bearings...Would be nice to do as I am doing ball joints both sides in 2 weeks .
Thanks Ryan
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2004 F-350 King Ranch 4x4 6.0 SRW SWB CC.
2.5in Leaf Spring Lift in Front.5in blocks in rear. Moto Metal 20x10's 305 55R20's. Fabtech Traction Bars. Fumoto Valve. SCT Tunner. Train Horns. Upgraded Compressors and big tank to run air tools. CB Radio. Rancho 9ks. Amsoil Oil ByPass System
Sorry that I didnt get the answer maybe Im having a moment but my driverside (2004 SRW F-350) was making some clunking noises. I took out the hub (manual hubs 2 sec's to pull) and found the drive shaft has play up and down where is it coming out of the axle. So we did say its the bearing in the axle right I would imagine the bearing in the knuckle is bad as well. Can I replace the bearing in the knuckle? Would def imagine the bearing in the axle replace but do I need a whole new knuckle. If so does anyone have part #s for these two bearings...Would be nice to do as I am doing ball joints both sides in 2 weeks .
Thanks Ryan
The wheel hub has 2 bearings in it and you need to get the hub by itself. Look at pictures in Ebay. Not servicable but you could have greased it if you have ABS brakes.
If you are doing balljoints in a couple of weeks, you might check into a Dyna-Trac conversion for the front end. It converts the front drive to the same configuration as the 97 and olde Super Duties. It's a much better and more durable setup than what Ford is using currently. It comes with new stub axles, bearings, seals, spindles, manual hubs, knuckles, and eveything needed for the conversion. I believe I first heard about them in the Power Stroke Registery online. You'll need to take it down the same for this conversion as for ball joints except for the axle shafts and you will eliminate a weakness the Super Duty has. If memory serves me correctly the kit sells for around $1800 complete.
take it down the same for this conversion as for ball joints except for the axle shafts and you will eliminate a weakness the Super Duty has. If memory serves me correctly the kit sells for around $1800 complete.
Ball joints, wheel bearings and the 6.0L PSD engine are the only weaknesses I know of. Ball joints have always been a weakness of sorts. They usually last 70,000-100,000 miles. Same on a Dodge. The wheel bearing design with the stacked wheel bearings instead of the inner and outer spread apart like on the older 97 and older trucks are a weakness. The load on them aren't spread out over the entire spindle like the older design. They also aren't serviceable like the older design. I have a strong suspicion that the wheel bearing design contributes to the death wobble on these trucks. It saves Ford some money during assembly, but it costs the consumer more than it saves Ford during the ownership cycle. These are the only weaknesses that I am aware of on a SD.
I've needed to replace (4) wheel hub/bearing assy's on my '02. All of mine failed because of moisture/debris in the bearing area .... not stress on the bearing. "Sealed" is a very relative term.
I realize that so many trucks these days are just highway queens, etc .... but not being able to clean and re-pack axle bearings makes no sense to me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg B
Ball joints, wheel bearings and the 6.0L PSD engine are the only weaknesses I know of. Ball joints have always been a weakness of sorts. They usually last 70,000-100,000 miles. Same on a Dodge. The wheel bearing design with the stacked wheel bearings instead of the inner and outer spread apart like on the older 97 and older trucks are a weakness. The load on them aren't spread out over the entire spindle like the older design. They also aren't serviceable like the older design. I have a strong suspicion that the wheel bearing design contributes to the death wobble on these trucks. It saves Ford some money during assembly, but it costs the consumer more than it saves Ford during the ownership cycle. These are the only weaknesses that I am aware of on a SD.
I think that's exactly what Dyna-Trac was thinking when they introduced their retro kit for the newer trucks. If I still owned my 05 6.0 SD 4X4, I would have made the conversion on it by now. Everything is like it is on the 97 and older trucks and the bearings are serviceable. I wish they made something like this for F150's. Before the 99 SD's and 97 F150's came out you hardly ever had to replace a wheel bearing on a Ford truck. Now it seems to be routine maintenance.
I've needed to replace (4) wheel hub/bearing assy's on my '02. All of mine failed because of moisture/debris in the bearing area .... not stress on the bearing. "Sealed" is a very relative term.
I realize that so many trucks these days are just highway queens, etc .... but not being able to clean and re-pack axle bearings makes no sense to me.
I re-packed mine. A tiny bit of water came out first when I filled the bearing cavity with grease. It wasn't really that hard to do.
Ball joints, wheel bearings and the 6.0L PSD engine are the only weaknesses I know of. Ball joints have always been a weakness of sorts. They usually last 70,000-100,000 miles. Same on a Dodge. The wheel bearing design with the stacked wheel bearings instead of the inner and outer spread apart like on the older 97 and older trucks are a weakness. The load on them aren't spread out over the entire spindle like the older design. They also aren't serviceable like the older design. I have a strong suspicion that the wheel bearing design contributes to the death wobble on these trucks. It saves Ford some money during assembly, but it costs the consumer more than it saves Ford during the ownership cycle. These are the only weaknesses that I am aware of on a SD.
I was thinking the short lived BJ problem was because they are not greaseable and the truck is heavy.. Force is force whether you spread it out a little more or not. The heavy truck wants to go down and the BJs are trying to hold it up.
The wheel bearings are what I was referring about force. If you stand with both feet together you are knocked off your feet much easier than if your feet are spead about shoulder width apart. It's a law of physics. The same applies to front wheel bearings. They are able to withstand more force if they are spread apart as they are in the older trucks than if they are back to back like in the newer trucks. If you understand the principle of leverage then you understand what I'm talking about. That's why I refer to the wheel bearings as being a weakness on these trucks. As for ball joints, it's just the nature of the beast. As heavy as these trucks are it would be difficult to design one that would last longer. It doesn't seem to matter whether they're greasable or not.
Hi Greg ... I understand what you are saying about the bearings ... but I think its still the sealing situation. I would think that the Ford engineers got the math right with the force diagrams, etc. If not.... it is a major screw up.
The sealing of the axle is what I think was arbitrary. Again, I opened all 4 of my failed brg assy's and found moisture and debris in there. In my very humble opinion, I think that is why they are failing ---- failure/contamination of lubrication.
I think I may disagree with you about the balljoints, too. I think we have enough history now to get a feel for the failure rate of replacement balljoints. I don't hear of people replacing the greaseable balljonts from MOOG or NAPA or even the cheap ones. Do you? It seems to me that its the oe non-greasable balljoints that are prematurely failing ... even in highway queens. Maybe I'm wrong.
Hiya EXv10. I may do what you did, but I really think that these trucks should have serviceable bearings where you can take them apart, completely clean out crap and contaminated grease, and properly pack them in your hands. Heavy truck axles are really not a "bearing buddy" application (and bb's , when properly working, have a slight positive pressure). But, your method sure is better than nothing.
__________________ Jeff
01' CC PSD LARIAT 4X4 6" Spring Superlift, 37's
Proud Member Of The Brotherhood
WW,RRP AIH delete,RRP HRX, DPTuner, ISSPRO EV2's, TCT Tranny, HH mods, DFA RR and CCK, CCV, Tymar w Pete's Cover, DB 200A, 6.0 Intercooler, AD in #8, 5" Cannon, RedHead SG,
Napa (moyock, NC) - $406
Napa (Kitty Hawk, NC) - $317
Partsgeek.com - $182 + $25 overnight shipping
Rockauto.com - $238.99
Local off road servicer instalation - part cost only is $400
Advanced auto (suffolk, VA) $239
eBay - $189? + $25 shipping
The above pricing was for hub assemblies without front wheel ABS. After I ordered the part and began instalation and I found out I have ABS. -Yes I am a noob. I swear I read somewhere that there should be three lines leading to hub if it has ABS?????
I got 4 wheel ABS, 4wd, single rear wheel for $260 from advanced auto.
I sent Ed for a quote and the format was a little strange. I registered on the partsguyed site, then sent a quote request, then later I had to log back into the site, get my password sent to me 'cause I forgot it already, follow an unusual path to my messages, then read my message and search the part number on the site. It was labor intensive especially because I was doing some of it from my phone. I am not trying to complain 'cause I am sure Ed does not make the rules. I also bet he was really busy before the holiday weekend. IF I WOULD HAVE USED ED I WOULD HAVE GOTTEN THE RIGHT PART THE FIRST TIME! I noticed he sent me straight to the correct part.
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Most of man's problems come from the inability to remain still.
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Jeff 
-Yes I am a noob. I swear I read somewhere that there should be three lines leading to hub if it has ABS?????
