No Start....?

[Cuda_jim]

Originally Posted by goatz Another thing if I take out the hpop fill plug the oil is all the way up to the top is that good or bad? Yep, that's OK. Originally Posted by goatz ok i put a scanner on it and it says there is no codes but the engine light is on what gives? The scanner is not compatible with our PSD's. If the CEL is lit, there is a code. Most of the ones you get from the mega-parts stores won't work.

[goatz]

well now its time to find a scanner

[goatz]

well got a scanner on it here is the code that were stored

BUZZ TEST
P0267
P1272
P1274
Got those first before I ran it
then only got P0267 after I ran it and warmed it up.

codes i pulled out that where stored
P0563
P0603
P1280
P1661
THEN i DELETED EVERYTHING AND GOT CODE P1111

CLYLINDER CONTRIBUTION TES GOT CODES
P0263
P0269
P0275
P0281

Got some other ones too

P0195
P0476

WHAT YOU GUYS THINK

[Cuda_jim]

Is it still running bad?


BUZZ TEST:
P0267 Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 3
P1272 High to Low Side Open - Cylinder 2
P1274 High to Low Side Open - Cylinder 4

The buzz test is pointing to a bad #3 injector because P0267 appeared twice. It could be wiring ie. UVCH. Check that first. I would check all four UVC's connectors while you're at it.

STORED CODES:
P0563 Sys Voltage High
P0603 Internal Control Module KAM Error (typical for disconnected batteries)
P1280 ICP Circuit Out of Range Low
P1661 Output Circuit Check Circuit Low Input
P1111 Sys Pass (No DTCs Available)

All the stored codes didn't return, you got an all clear (P1111) I wouldn't be concerned with these unless they return.

CCT:
P0263 Cylinder 1 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0275 Cylinder 5 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0281 Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance Fault

CCT can be an un-reliable test however it is pointing to a bad UVCH.
I have run the test back to back and got different results. I even ran it on a new truck and got codes for non-contributing cylinders. FYI: Both trucks were running just fine.
The EOT needs to be higher than 137ºF IIRC, before the test can be performed. That's likely where the EOT code below (P0195) came from. The engine should be screaming hot before the test is performed.

OTHERS:
P0195 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Error
P0476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Range/Performance

If the scanner has the capability of watching the Parameter Identification Data (PID's) then have them checked. These are probably from the initial no-start. I wouldn't be too concerned with these unless they return or the PID is out of specs.

Here's the firing order:

[goatz]

awsome thanks, I did take out the number#3 injector but i did replace the valve cover gaskets and wiring and the pig tails. I will check that side out thanks jim
it is still running bad almost like its got a miss , that could be from #3 injector no?

[goatz]

well I took off the valve cover and inspected everything, it all looks fine. I started it up and I could only see oil coming out of the #3 injector ther was nothing coming out of 1, 5, and 7. I also unpluged the injector/glow plug harness and there was no difference in the way it runs seems like its just running off of 2,4,6 and 8. also looked to oil comming out from around the #3 injector maybe injector o-rings are gone . Oh and for all the help I have got I am now a 3 year supporter. thanks everyone for the help much appreciated

[goatz]

I think I am going test the wiring tomorrow

[Cuda_jim]

If the wiring is OK the IDM is the next suspect.
Be sure to open up the large harness draped over the driver side valve cover. It's loosely wrapped with red tape.
The harness has been known to rub through wires causing all sorts of different trouble.

[goatz]

alright sounds like a plan, will try check that after work

[Action4478]

Originally Posted by Cuda_jim

Is it still running bad?


BUZZ TEST:
P0267 Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 3
P1272 High to Low Side Open - Cylinder 2
P1274 High to Low Side Open - Cylinder 4

The buzz test is pointing to a bad #3 injector because P0267 appeared twice. It could be wiring ie. UVCH. Check that first. I would check all four UVC's connectors while you're at it.

STORED CODES:
P0563 Sys Voltage High
P0603 Internal Control Module KAM Error (typical for disconnected batteries)
P1280 ICP Circuit Out of Range Low
P1661 Output Circuit Check Circuit Low Input
P1111 Sys Pass (No DTCs Available)

All the stored codes didn't return, you got an all clear (P1111) I wouldn't be concerned with these unless they return.

CCT:
P0263 Cylinder 1 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0275 Cylinder 5 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0281 Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance Fault

CCT can be an un-reliable test however it is pointing to a bad UVCH.
I have run the test back to back and got different results. I even ran it on a new truck and got codes for non-contributing cylinders. FYI: Both trucks were running just fine.
The EOT needs to be higher than 137ºF IIRC, before the test can be performed. That's likely where the EOT code below (P0195) came from. The engine should be screaming hot before the test is performed.

OTHERS:
P0195 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Error
P0476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Range/Performance

If the scanner has the capability of watching the Parameter Identification Data (PID's) then have them checked. These are probably from the initial no-start. I wouldn't be too concerned with these unless they return or the PID is out of specs.

Here's the firing order:

Tried to rep ya Jim ,,but no joy ...

[goatz]

I rep ya ...thanks for the help

[DRRXR]

yup did that , prob going to do that a couple of times so i can clean her right out. anyone know if there is something you can put into the oil system to do a oil flush?
--------------------

I found that using some cheap diesel oil from tractor supply and adding a Quart of Marvins Mystery Oil to top it off will clean out a lot of deposits after running it at 1.7K rpms for 60 miles then drain and flush with some more cheap oil. Then use the synthetic.

[goatz]

When you test the glows and injectors with a ohm meter is that with the ingnition on?

[DRRXR]

Originally Posted by goatz

When you test the glows and injectors with a ohm meter is that with the ingnition on?

With key off you should have battery voltage to one large terminal and nothing on the other large post and nothing on the two small post.

With key on you should have battery voltage to both large and one small terminal for 2 minutes. The other small terminal is grounded. That indicates that the relay is active.
After the the glow plug activation is over, you should have battery voltage to one large and both small terminals.

The relay can also have bad contacts in the relay. After turning the key on (not running)check the voltage at both of the large posts on the relay. There should be very little difference in the voltage.

[Cuda_jim]

Originally Posted by goatz

When you test the glows and injectors with a ohm meter is that with the ingnition on?

Key off. Ohms are always checked with no power applied...might pop your meter.

2 ohms or less are good for the GPs when checked through the UVC connector.

Ohming the injectors only tests the harness under the valve covers. You have ohms or not.