Considering adding '69 F250 to the family...have random questions
Sometimes a truck just calls to you, and this one's doing just that. It's a '69 F250 with the 390 and a four-speed manual, 2WD, and its got body parts from at least four other trucks. Mileage shows 15600 and has rolled over at least once. It's not a show truck, but there are no rust or crash damage issues, and it costs less than some iPods.
Most importantly, something about it says that it needs to be in the driveway. I used to have a '79 F350 DRW CC with a 460 and an automatic, which is a very different vehicle, and thought I'd pick the collective consciousness here to see if there are any tips or hidden dangers I should be on the lookout for.
Haven't had a chance to drive the truck yet (won't buy before I do) but it seems to need a valve cover gasket, a battery, a power steering hose and the brakes are soft. It's been sitting for at least a year. It started and ran, after some finagling with the choke, but later it stalled and wouldn't fire again. The battery turned it over easily, but there was no spark--or not enough for it to start, anyway.
Obviously it's impossible to diagnose a truck over the Internet, and nobody in his right mind expects a sub-$500 truck to be trouble-free. My question is this: do any of the above issues sound like walk-away problems for this truck? I'm not familiar with the 390 V8 or the four-speed manual in these trucks, and don't know how long-lived or reliable they are. If I do buy the truck, are there any recommended upgrades? Its hoped-for role in the fleet will be as a daily driver and work truck, because things haven't been right around here since the old faithful '91 Ranger went away. And, like I said, something about this truck feels right, even though it's acting up before I've decided to buy it. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated!
If the truck is calling you, and it feels right, then buy it. From my knowledge nothing you described would make me walk from a great deal. It's worth more then $500 for body parts! Valve cover gaskets, power steering hoses are all very cheap parts. That's the great thing about these trucks, most of the parts are very low cost. Yes it all adds up, but still a low $ amount compared to other trucks. After sitting for a year who really knows why it stalled and wouldn't start. I am sure others will give you better ideas, but who knows how the spark plugs are, how clean the gas was in the tank, or maybe the carb needs some work. Still all stuff that doesn't sound to bad. At that price and your description it sounds like a deal.
69= points type ignition. The points probably burned out due to corrosion from sitting so long, and are weak to begin with. This along with bad gas and dirt in the carb are fun.
500 for a complete truck is a good starting point as long as it is all there.
You can purchase it and slowly bring it up to snuff with an electronic ignition and numerous other upgrades like power steering and disc brakes.
Garbz
__________________
64 F100 "Christine" 472 EFI C6 and mean
63 F100 Uni Custom under construction 4" off the pavement and built to drive 410, C6.
69 F250 Crew Hiboy 360 435. Driver.
05 Escape XLT
I would ask if the fuel tank was drained. If not then probably the crappy old gas caused the hard starting. On a behind-the-seat-fuel tank installation there is likely a short piece of rubber fuel hose at some point where the fuel tank can be easily drained. Then, of course, fresh fuel.
Any pieces of the umbrella valve seals could be restricting the flow-back of oil out of the valve covers. The valve seals get old and start breaking off and lay in the top of the head and block or restrict the passages causing excessive oil build-up in the valve covers and leaking. Pulling the valve covers will reveal this possibility. The umbrella seals are less thean $20.00.
The truck you describe sounds very tempting with desireable options and rustfree components. I would definitely look into it further.
Thanks for the quick responses! I'm headed back to look at the truck again today, and having slept on it, it's looking more likely that I'll bring it home.
The truck has a distributor, rather than points, so either this engine is not a 390 as the seller says, or it's been converted. While I'm an expert car spotter, I'm not quite so good at identifying engines on sight--are there any ways to quickly tell which it is? I'm going back today to get the truck's VIN and to get detailed photos of the vehicle for research. The valve covers have "POWERED BY FORD" script on them.
Thanks again for all the advice. I'm looking forward to joining the Ford truck family again!
--emmymau
'73 Ford Pinto Squire
'76 Mercedes 300D
'54 Chevrolet 3100 pickup (don't hate the old truck, it's an heirloom! The family has since converted to FoMoCo...)
Emmymau,
You said, "something about this truck feels right, even though it's acting up before I've decided to buy it" much like the proverbial red headed foster child that you will likely grow to love deeply once you show him who's the boss. Seriously, sounds like a good deal and all of the above comments are right on the money. Just be aware that within Ford's FE family of engines (332 (old)-352(old)-360(most common)-390(a little less common than the 360)-406(Rare)-410(Rare)-427(VERY RARE)-428 all of various bores and strokes) all 360's magically become 390's on sale day. Allow me to explain a bit: While all FE engines are extremely durable and formidable, the 360 is a lower compression/lower performance/ lower efficiency unit while a good 390 will deliver more power etc. with a little better fuel milage. The reason for my "sale day" statement is that there are "NO" external markings to identify any of these engines and most folks either hopefully assume or falsely claim that the engine is a 390. That being said, there is nothing inherently bad about any of the engines in this family, it's just that some are more desirable than others. When you get your new "ward" home, you can check the stroke to narrow down what you actually have. "Happy motoring"
Gene
__________________
'68 Mustang Coupe 5.0/T5
'03 Miata SE
'69 F250 360/AT
'56 Chebbie 3200
1/2-'68 Mustang Coupe
The truck has a distributor, rather than points, so either this engine is not a 390 as the seller says, or it's been converted.
The points are INSIDE the distributor. It means it's NOT an electronic ignition, though still needs a distributor. The points are simple contacts that fire the coil and with time wear and with sitting will corrode. This all leading to hard starting or not running. For less than $20 you can fix that(points and condensor), and likely put cap and rotor too for a few more dollars.
For the money, if that rust free, is well worth it.
Thanks again for the advice. I'm leaning strongly toward buying even if I have to tow it home at this point.
A couple more observations, this time with photos. First, looking underneath, there's rust in a couple of what appear to be body/bed supports. AFAIK these are replaceable without needing a new frame, correct? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...olaf250096.jpg
Your driveshaft is a 2 piece unit and that is the slip joint/carrier bearing for it. Completly normal. Find all the grease fitting on the truck and lube all well and good luck with the preoject
Your driveshaft is a 2 piece unit and that is the slip joint/carrier bearing for it. Completly normal. Find all the grease fitting on the truck and lube all well and good luck with the preoject
Tim
Thanks for the assistance & advice! Tomorrow we'll see if I can make the deal to bring it home.
The truck has a distributor, rather than points, so either this engine is not a 390 as the seller says, or it's been converted. While I'm an expert car spotter, I'm not quite so good at identifying engines on sight--are there any ways to quickly tell which it is? I'm going back today to get the truck's VIN and to get detailed photos of the vehicle for research. The valve covers have "POWERED BY FORD" script on them.
Thanks again for all the advice. I'm looking forward to joining the Ford truck family again.
Welcome to FTE
There was no such thing as electronic ignition (DuraSpark) until 1974, some cars/trucks didn't have it till 1976.
With/without points, the outside of the dizzy looks pretty much the same thru 1982.
On sale day, 360 engine magically become 390's. The engines look identical. Measuring the stroke is the EZ way to tell one from another.
360 = 3.50" / 390 = 3.78"
"Powered by Ford" valve covers were introduced on all V8's in 1967.
The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN. The following were the only engines factory installed in these trucks.
1968/72 F100/350: A = 240 I-6 / B = 300 I-6 / G = 302 2V (F100 only) / H = 390 2V / Y = 360 2V.
The 4 speed manual is prolly a New Process 435, with a granny low. Ford used this trans from 1957 thru the 1990's.
__________________ Bill / Retired Ford Partsman (1962/97) / SoCal Chapter Member.
Part Number Research: Trucks: 1928/2000 // Cars: 1928/79.
1934 Packard V12 Convertible Victoria // 2008 Fusion S // 2008 Edge SEL.
Well, so much for that. The guy claimed on Friday afternoon just before COB that he still had it and was closed for the weekend, so I told him we'd be there Monday to get it. We drove 400+ miles (one-way), arrived half an hour after he opened for business today, and "another salesman" had already sold it to someone else. This, after he claimed the truck had been sitting on the lot for a year.
Insert rant about how much of an SOB move that was, here.
Shady dealings and a waste of gas, but what are you going to do? Guess I'll just wait for the next "right" truck to come along...thanks again for all the advice. With luck, I will rejoin the Ford truck family someday.
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Seriously, sounds like a good deal and all of the above comments are right on the money. Just be aware that within Ford's FE family of engines (332 (old)-352(old)-360(most common)-390(a little less common than the 360)-406(Rare)-410(Rare)-427(VERY RARE)-428 all of various bores and strokes) all 360's magically become 390's on sale day. Allow me to explain a bit: While all FE engines are extremely durable and formidable, the 360 is a lower compression/lower performance/ lower efficiency unit while a good 390 will deliver more power etc. with a little better fuel milage. The reason for my "sale day" statement is that there are "NO" external markings to identify any of these engines and most folks either hopefully assume or falsely claim that the engine is a 390. That being said, there is nothing inherently bad about any of the engines in this family, it's just that some are more desirable than others. When you get your new "ward" home, you can check the stroke to narrow down what you actually have. "Happy motoring"
