2003 Ranger Edge 4.0L SOHC idles rough 1 to 2 minutes after I stop then dies.
I have a 2003 Ford Ranger Edge 4.0L SOHC 109K miles. I've changed the spark plugs out, changed the oil, cleaned my K&N air filter, and have a pretty new battery.
When I come to a stop while in drive after about one minute my idle gets rough then progressively worse until it just dies. It does this when its in park too. I shut the AC off and it didn't seem to matter. No problems when I'm driving only when I'm stopped.
My check engine light came on, but I don't know how to get a code. A friend at work said he has a device that I can borrow to get the code.
P2195 - O2 Sensor
P2197 - O2 Sensor
P0171 - System too Lean
P0174 - System too lean
P0300 - Multiple Cylinder Misfire
I can't edit the original post so I'll just put this here.
Someone mentioned to me that if I put my K&N air filter in without letting it dry properly the oil may have fouled up my MAF or something else. Then I remembered that when I last cleaned my K&N let it dry overnight, but it wasn't completely dry and I put it in anyways. I think it may have been later that same day when I first started having this problem.
It could be your IAC valve, I just got done changing mine less than 10 min ago. But I also have to wonder with you saying that you let your filter dry overnight but it was still a little wet the next day, could you perhaps be spraying too much oil on the filter and the filter itself be the problem?
I like the suspect list so far & agree that right now it sounds like you might have over oiled your air filter & contaminated the down stream IAC (Idle Air Control)'s heated electrical element, a common problem with these kinds of air filters.
This element's resistance is carefully calibrated & the computer uses it's PID input to know how much air is entering the engine, so if the MAF sensors PID is corrupt, the computer gets confused about what to do about fuel trim .
Be sure to first disconnect the battery B- cable before begining work, to let the MAF sensors grid cool down.
You'll need a tamper proof torx bit (T-10 I think, do a forum search check) to remove the IAC for cleaning.
If the inside of the air tube is coated with oil, use a lint free micro fiber towel & the MAF sensor spray to clean it, so the IAC won't be recontaminated after service.
Be careful not to touch the wire grid, keep it clean, no lint from paper or cotton towels, dust or oiley fingers, so Use a non residual cleaner product like CRC MAF Spray Cleaner, thats specially formulated just for cleaning the MAF sensor & whos recipe won't damage or re-contaminate it when it dries.
You may have more than one problem, so as has been suggested, don't remove the IAC from your suspect list just yet, as this is also a common part for idle problems too!!!!
To be honest I've never really had a problem with my Ranger until now. So I haven't really scoured the engine over looking for things. I stopped by our local auto store last night picked up a can of MAF cleaner and Throttle Body Cleaner. I walked up to the counter to pay for it and asked how much a new MAF was for my truck. After looking through the computer and not finding an MAF the sales clerk told me that they don't sell an MAF for my truck. Then he looked again and said there is no MAF on my truck. He said I didn't need the MAF cleaner and I could just use the throttle body cleaner. So that was all that I bought.
When I got home I pulled open my air box and was staring right at my MAF. needless to say I was kinda ticked. So now I'll have to go back and snag the MAF cleaner.
I did however spray down the throttle body with cleaner and wipe it down really well. I got a lot of black gunk off of it. My throttle response is a second or half second faster now. But my truck still idles rough.
Oh, and thanks for welcoming me to the FTE! Its nice to be surrounded by other Ford Truck Enthusiasts!
Good idea to clean the throttle body, air box & air tube all the way to the throttle body & a good idea to opt for the MAF sensor spray cleaner imo.
Be sure to first pull the battery B- cable before beginning the MAF cleaning & give it time to cool down before spraying, if you've recently driven it.
It's also important to pull the B- cable to wipe the computers memory of those old fuel trim tables, so it can begin to build new fuel trim tables with the cleaned MAF sensors input & the O2 sensors input with the new spark plugs in place.
Don't forget you'll need a tamper proof torx bit to remove the MAF sensor for cleaning.
__________________
99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
Details are trifles but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle
(Ben Franklin)
Our signature is a sign of a job completed autograph your work with excellence
Still haven't had time to clean my MAF yet. I've got the cleaner though and plan to have a try at it this weekend.
I erased the codes that I was getting. My check engine light came on on the way to work shortly after I erased them. Now I'm only getting code P0171 and P0174. This is since I've cleaned my throttle body, air box, and tube.
I'll update again when I get a chance to clean the MAF.
Remove the MAF sensor for cleaning, so you can get to it from all sides & to keep the spray cleaner & any residue it removes out of the intake air tube, no need to have the engine choke this stuff down on the restart!!!! lol
I believe you'll need a T-20 tamper proof torx bit for the MAF fastners, or use a Dremel & a Harbor Freight diamond drill bit to remove the fastners little center post, or to grind a clearance dimple in your torx bit, or use a Harbor Freight diamond cutting wheel to slot the torx fastner, then use a straight blade screwdriver to remove them & replace them with a fastner head of your choice, as some folks have done.
Anyway when you get ready to clean it, if you've recently driven the vehicle, just be sure to let the MAF sensor cool first, don't touch it with the spray tube or your fingers & keep everything squeeky clean, lint & dust free on re-assembly.
Let us know how the MAF sensor cleaning goes.
__________________
99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
Details are trifles but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle
(Ben Franklin)
Our signature is a sign of a job completed autograph your work with excellence
Brian, I hope you bought your MAF cleaner from some place other than the store where you were rold your truck does not have an MAF. Someone who is so lacking in correct information doesn't deserve your business. The knowledge of counter people is as important as the products the recommend and sell.
__________________
1991 XLT, 2.3 SOHC, M5OD manual, 3.45 7.5" axle
Valvoline Synthetics in Trans., Diff.;
Motorcraft Blend in Engine
225/70 x 14 Bridgestone Dueler APT III tires,
90 K miles., std. cab, long bed, fiberglass topper
Finally found time to clean my MAF. OR at least I think I did. I unscrewed the two torx bits and undid the wire boot. I pulled my MAF out and sprayed it with the MAF cleaner. The MAF just looked like it had two or three resistors attached to wires. I thoroughly sprayed the resistors and the rest of the assembly with the MAF cleaner. I wasn't supposed to disassemble anything else on the MAF was I? Oh, and I did give it time to dry before I reassembled it.
I put everything back together and reconnected the battery cable. The truck started up faster than its ever started up. I took it out to drive a couple of miles. Everything ran great. I parked it in the driveway and let it run for 10 minutes to see if it would idle rough again.. It didn't. But then my engine light came on again.
I read the codes, P0171 and P0174, and then erased them with the OBD II. I'm borrowing the OBDII from a friend.
So now I guess I need to check the PCV? I found where it is. Will it come out without damaging the coolant line that is wrapped around it or will I need to disconnect the coolant line. I think its a coolant line at least.
And one other question. What is the line that looks like a PCV valve that goes from my air intake tube, after the MAF and before the throttle body, and connects to my passenger side head cover?
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
