I can't get my usual/trusted mechanic to have a look at my 1999 F250 PSD 7.3 to address what has now become an AC crisis in 100+ temps! He's either too busy or just isn't interested in working on the AC. I suspect the latter since his wife tells me that he hasn't repaired hers either - although to be fair she's figured out a way to "fool" hers into working.
I took it to someone else (new) who noticed the "gap" and removed the washer (but didn't add locktite). And, I had beautiful cold air for 4 days!
Now, after 4 days the gap looks pretty wide again. It occasionally blows cool air, but not reliably. And, the "new" mechanic isn't at all interested in trying to re-close the gap or check charges to the switch. Instead, he says that I should replace the compressor or parts thereof - to the tune of $1,000.00.
Can anyone point me in the direction of someone good for an AC issue? I'm in Frisco, but I'd be willing to stick an ice pack on top of my head and drive to someone reliable. I'd really appreciate your input!
I can't get my usual/trusted mechanic to have a look at my 1999 F250 PSD 7.3 to address what has now become an AC crisis in 100+ temps! He's either too busy or just isn't interested in working on the AC. I suspect the latter since his wife tells me that he hasn't repaired hers either - although to be fair she's figured out a way to "fool" hers into working.
I took it to someone else (new) who noticed the "gap" and removed the washer (but didn't add locktite). And, I had beautiful cold air for 4 days!
Now, after 4 days the gap looks pretty wide again. It occasionally blows cool air, but not reliably. And, the "new" mechanic isn't at all interested in trying to re-close the gap or check charges to the switch. Instead, he says that I should replace the compressor or parts thereof - to the tune of $1,000.00.
Can anyone point me in the direction of someone good for an AC issue? I'm in Frisco, but I'd be willing to stick an ice pack on top of my head and drive to someone reliable. I'd really appreciate your input!
First of all welcome to FTE! The A/C fix is a very easy one and A cheap one as well. About $10.00 and 20 minutes of your time and all should be cold again. You can charge the a/c as well, it is not hard to do at all. I recommend that you do this yourself and save the money. Where were you looking at a new compresssor for $1,000 ? I would check that again as well, Thats high a you know what.... I will get the link to you in a minute for the A/C fix unless someone gets it before I do....
Thanks mxdadof2! I had read that link. My "new" mechanic charged me $40 to remove the washer and close the "gap". And, at the time, I thought he was a hero and that it was the best $40, I'd ever spent -- until the AC stopped working 4 days later.
Now the "gap" appears to have widened again. And, he doesn't want to try to close it with locktite, check charges, or anything else - instead, he'd like to sell me the $1,000.00 "fix."
It does blow cool air (not cold) intermittently - but never after having been parked in the hot sun for 2-3 hours.
Thanks for your vote of confidence. I'd love to be able to fix this myself. But, this is way over my skill-tool set!!!
Thanks for your vote of confidence. I'd love to be able to fix this myself. But, this is way over my skill-tool set!!!
It's not really that hard to do. Read through that post a couple of times, then go buy you a feeler gauge. The other option is to tighten the bolt back up if you think the lack of locktite let it work loose. The shims inside is what sets the gap, not how tight the bolt is.
The hardest part about working on your truck is getting up the nerve to start. Follow the directions here and you'll soon be amazed at what you can do.
My "new" mechanic charged me $40 to remove the washer and close the "gap". And, at the time, I thought he was a hero and that it was the best $40, I'd ever spent -- until the AC stopped working 4 days later.
I have been toying with this "gap" of the compressor clutch over the past week. It takes a 5/16 socket, a large screwdriver and 10 minutes of your time to mess wit it.
After reading Pops post, I checked mine and it was off. So i removed the clutch and installed a different shim. I noticed little to no difference in the way mine cooled. I really wasn't having a problem per say, but I am willing to try anything to make it blow cooler as the weather her is dreadful. 100* day with a heat index of 110*
After speaking to an HVAC friend of mine a few days ago, he recommend I REMOVE the shim completely. I picked his brain about it, but he insisted to trust him. "the weather here is not like the weather in Nebraska", he said.
We both agree the older F**d a/c systems suck, but he has a 1981 Granada that blows 36* at the vent! When asked about it, all he will say is "I fixed it the way I wanted it".
So for right now, I am going to try running without the shim for a while. So far, I haven't noticed much of a difference in vent temps, but I will give it a couple days.
Like Chris said there is nothing to this. I would certainly go back and retighten the bolt @ the clutch and check the Gap with a feeler gage and go from there. I still would check the freon as well. But for less than $20 (well thats not counting the cold beverages that go along with this) you can have your A/C back to cold in no time.
__________________
Ron- 01' 7.3 PSD EC 4x4 no mods yet... but working on those.....
Where in the DFW area are you? I can have a look at it if we can hook up...
EDIT: Nevermind -- just saw your message in my profile. Frisco isn't too far away. Let's see how our schedules work out. I'm pretty busy this week, but maybe after work if you can make it down to Lewisville one evening...
I have been toying with this "gap" of the compressor clutch over the past week. It takes a 5/16 socket, a large screwdriver and 10 minutes of your time to mess wit it.
After reading Pops post, I checked mine and it was off. So i removed the clutch and installed a different shim. I noticed little to no difference in the way mine cooled. I really wasn't having a problem per say, but I am willing to try anything to make it blow cooler as the weather her is dreadful. 100* day with a heat index of 110*
After speaking to an HVAC friend of mine a few days ago, he recommend I REMOVE the shim completely. I picked his brain about it, but he insisted to trust him. "the weather here is not like the weather in Nebraska", he said.
We both agree the older F**d a/c systems suck, but he has a 1981 Granada that blows 36* at the vent! When asked about it, all he will say is "I fixed it the way I wanted it".
So for right now, I am going to try running without the shim for a while. So far, I haven't noticed much of a difference in vent temps, but I will give it a couple days.
Good or bad idea??
David,
I removed the shim completely as well and have had absolutely no problems what so ever. The one thing I was told to make sure of was that after removing the shim that the clutch does engage and disengage as it should which mine does . I havent had any trouble out of it since and the most important thing is the wife is happy now!!!!!!!!!!
__________________
Ron- 01' 7.3 PSD EC 4x4 no mods yet... but working on those.....
I have been toying with this "gap" of the compressor clutch over the past week. It takes a 5/16 socket, a large screwdriver and 10 minutes of your time to mess wit it.
After reading Pops post, I checked mine and it was off. So i removed the clutch and installed a different shim. I noticed little to no difference in the way mine cooled. I really wasn't having a problem per say, but I am willing to try anything to make it blow cooler as the weather her is dreadful. 100* day with a heat index of 110*
After speaking to an HVAC friend of mine a few days ago, he recommend I REMOVE the shim completely. I picked his brain about it, but he insisted to trust him. "the weather here is not like the weather in Nebraska", he said.
We both agree the older F**d a/c systems suck, but he has a 1981 Granada that blows 36* at the vent! When asked about it, all he will say is "I fixed it the way I wanted it".
So for right now, I am going to try running without the shim for a while. So far, I haven't noticed much of a difference in vent temps, but I will give it a couple days.
Good or bad idea??
As long as it disengages correctly, shouldn't be an issue. I forget -- do you have the "Cold AC Mod" done? That will drop your outlet temps nicely. I believe I saw about a 10 deg drop in mine after the mod.
I removed the shim completely as well and have had absolutely no problems what so ever. The one thing I was told to make sure of was that after removing the shim that the clutch does engage and disengage as it should which mine does . I havent had any trouble out of it since and the most important thing is the wife is happy now!!!!!!!!!!
AWEsome!! Thanks for the info Ron! Repped! Joe, rep patrol has me on lock down- i'll get you next time. Yes, i have actually been through 3 different a/c valves. I like the Ranger one I have in now. It is vacuum controlled and installs in both lines.
With the temps we have these days (100+), my vent temps stay between 45-55. I wish they were colder, but oh well.
One of these days, I just might go crazy and mount a window unit Larry The Cable Guy style!!!!!!!
Thank you Izzy that's so kind of you to offer! But, I bit the bullet this afternoon and sprung for a new compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, and system flush.
It seemed like the prudent thing to do when (1) it was "reported" that the entire system was leaking, and (2) I saw that in addition to the "gap" in clutch, the entire clutch was jerking around and shifting back onto the compressor - on and off a bolt that sits between the clutch and the compressor - apparently causing wear on the surrounding parts. At least I hope it was right thing to do!
I'll be offering a kidney for sale on ebay tomorrow. But, seriously, thank you for suggestions and encouragement! FTEers are the best!!!
sometimes that is just the way to go. I did spent the 1k on my a/c when I first got my truck (dealer repair w/ friend discounts). I have dealt with f**d a/c before and know better.
Glad you got it taken care of and hope it holds up for a long time!! Seems like, with these trucks, the more you drive them--> the more you love them!!!
almost sounds like to me that when the bolt was not locktited down that this caused your problem now?? but thats just my take on it. I did all this last week and have had not one problem. let us know how it all goes and good luck
__________________
Ron- 01' 7.3 PSD EC 4x4 no mods yet... but working on those.....
Isn't it amazing how big a problem can become over such a simple, little thing?
I just HATE it when the dealerships just throw parts and labor at a problem until they find it. Of course, how could they make any money if they just fixed the problems as only necessary?
"Your A/C doesn't work? Well, lessee, we need a compressor, evaporator, condenser, dryer/filter, expansion valve, a couple of limit switches, and some hoses. That should take care of the problem after we add refrigerant."
Ummm, yeah, I guess it will.......
Glad Momma's still happy! It's great you got the right thing the first time! Think about all the dollars you "screwed" the stealership out of!
Pop
__________________ -Marv- one of the Brotherhood
"Some of us pride ourselves on the money we've spent on our trucks,
and some of us on what we have NOT"
2000 F350 Lariat 7.3,A/T,CC,LB,4X4,SRW, CCV, Sonnax/springs, Dahl, spin-on trans filter, coolant filter, 6637 & cover, bypass oil, HPX. Email SpringerPop
__________________
Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.