I'm in the process of choosing what carb to top off my motor with. My current build specs are.
Cam undecided either comp 260H or 268H.
Bored 30 over with silvolite 1138 pistons
C6AE-R heads if it matters
Stock 4bbl intake
1 3/4 headers 2.5 in exhaust
Auto trans 4:10 gears
I was thinking in the 700 cfm range. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I'm in the process of choosing what carb to top off my motor with. My current build specs are.
Cam undecided either comp 260H or 268H.
Bored 30 over with silvolite 1138 pistons
C6AE-R heads if it matters
Stock 4bbl intake
1 3/4 headers 2.5 in exhaust
Auto trans 4:10 gears
I was thinking in the 700 cfm range. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Nick
You are about right. 735-780 depending on what you are doing with it.
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2006 F350 PSD,4x4
2007 Focus
1960 Falcon, 434CJ, 787 hp
non Fords
Highly modified 240Z V8
300ZXT stock
Uh, what engine size? I'm assuming 428 because of your handle?
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- art k. - Moderator for the Superduty, V10, and FE forums
'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 auto 3.73 Warn hubs Volant CAI, eBay headers and y-pipe - 5-star custom tunes on SCT X3
'97 Cougar XR7 30th Anniv Edition 4.6L
'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see.
Yup its a 428, It nearly a pay check to paycheck money pit.
So far I have the following done.
16 new guides.
Hardened exhaust seats.
Resurfaced heads, and exhaust sides
Block bored 30 over
Crank was ground 10/10
Balanced with the weighted flywheel
Ordered the rebuild kit
I have yet to acquire.
Headers.
Cam kit with locks/springs blah blah blah still making up mind
Carburetor
Finish building my trans
Clean and paint parts
Yup its a 428, It nearly a pay check to paycheck money pit.
So far I have the following done.
16 new guides.
Hardened exhaust seats.
Resurfaced heads, and exhaust sides
Block bored 30 over
Crank was ground 10/10
Balanced with the weighted flywheel
Ordered the rebuild kit
I have yet to acquire.
Headers.
Cam kit with locks/springs blah blah blah still making up mind
Carburetor
Finish building my trans
Clean and paint parts
When you balance your engine, you need the crank, rod, piston, ring, piston pin, flywheel. We race our 428's so we do the extra of machining the rods to weigh the same as the lightest rod. We always purchase new forged pistons that are matched at the factory, but we always check them to make sure they are the same weight. If you are using used pistons, you could machine the heavier pistons to the weight of the lightest one. Blue printing an engine consists of many things, one of which is to check the clearance of the piston pin to the pistons. They almost always are to tight. An engine built correctly is like a watch made in Switzerland. A 428 is a great engine, and built right will make lots of power and last you a long time. Our 428 "434" made 587 hp.n.a., partly because we took the time to blue print the entire engine.
__________________
2006 F350 PSD,4x4
2007 Focus
1960 Falcon, 434CJ, 787 hp
non Fords
Highly modified 240Z V8
300ZXT stock
Well, matching the rods to the lightest one, and the same with the pistons, isn't really an "extra" to a balance job, it's the basics- all the rod/piston/ring assemblies matched, and that's your bobweight- then the crank/dampener/flywheel is balanced to the bobweight. Any rod bolt changes, polishing, clearancing, etc., should be done, then match the rods by machining on the balance pads- basic
Exactly tonight I gathered all of my rotating parts so they can be dropped off at the making shop. I believe what the machinist said was that he is going to keep the weight on the flex plate.And just balance it that way.
Otherwise the other option I had was to go full internal using a internal balanced flex plate and adding weight to the crank, which is a little more expensive. I figured since this is a mild build and wont see high revs, keeping it external will be just fine.
Which doesn't really bother me as long as my whole rotating assembly is balanced correctly.
You don't happen to know off hand, the web site that has all of the casting numbers for FE heads, intakes, and blocks. It shows the original year and engine they were used on??????
Well, matching the rods to the lightest one, and the same with the pistons, isn't really an "extra" to a balance job, it's the basics- all the rod/piston/ring assemblies matched, and that's your bobweight- then the crank/dampener/flywheel is balanced to the bobweight. Any rod bolt changes, polishing, clearancing, etc., should be done, then match the rods by machining on the balance pads- basic
What I mean by extra is that some people do not balance their assembly at all, but on a 428 it is critical. Some guys are working on a budget and can not afford to balance their engines. What I was trying to point out, is that since he had a 428, go the extra mile and do it right the first time. Some people do not know what a balance consists of. If you read his post he said that he had the crank balanced with the flywheel, I was pointing out that he needed to balance the whole assembly. Some of the guys are working on their very first engine, and we can not assume that they know how to do it correctly.
__________________
2006 F350 PSD,4x4
2007 Focus
1960 Falcon, 434CJ, 787 hp
non Fords
Highly modified 240Z V8
300ZXT stock
Exactly tonight I gathered all of my rotating parts so they can be dropped off at the making shop. I believe what the machinist said was that he is going to keep the weight on the flex plate.And just balance it that way.
Otherwise the other option I had was to go full internal using a internal balanced flex plate and adding weight to the crank, which is a little more expensive. I figured since this is a mild build and wont see high revs, keeping it external will be just fine.
For what you're doing, one engine that's going to stay in one vehicle with one flexplate, should be fine. I tend to neutral balance them, especially if it's an expensive one anyway, like a Scat stroker setup, so I only have to have one type of flywheel/flexplates, all neutral, and interchangable. It does get a little expensive though, a couple slugs of Mallory metal and the labor to install them correctly will cut into your budget a bit
Exactly tonight I gathered all of my rotating parts so they can be dropped off at the making shop. I believe what the machinist said was that he is going to keep the weight on the flex plate.And just balance it that way.
Otherwise the other option I had was to go full internal using a internal balanced flex plate and adding weight to the crank, which is a little more expensive. I figured since this is a mild build and wont see high revs, keeping it external will be just fine.
Which doesn't really bother me as long as my whole rotating assembly is balanced correctly.
You don't happen to know off hand, the web site that has all of the casting numbers for FE heads, intakes, and blocks. It shows the original year and engine they were used on??????
What do you consider high revs?
__________________
Bear 45/70 Gimp Racing
“There are only two things stopping you, common sense and fear! And not much of the latter.”
I suppose that this varies from person to person depending on their use and weight of foot, but I would set my limit at about around 4500.
I really have no clue I mean its not getting raced at all. I should just ask whats reasonable?? I want this to last a while and by a while I mean 15 maybe 20 years with reliability, unless I decided to place some more speed parts on it. So anything above the 4500 mark to me would seem that its a little excessive.
Although I'm not saying I'm setting a rev limiter at 4500 so testing the waters one toe at a time may happen.
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