Here's an easy check.. pull out all of the spark plugs and turn the engine over by hand. stick your finger over each plug hole, and have a friend rotate the engine by hand using the crank bolt. Once every 2 rotations each cylinder should build obvious pressure during the compression stroke. if NOT, then you've got bigger problems. Be prepared to rotate the engine many times to check everything.
When rotating the engine over by hand, make sure to check if it binds anywhere during each revolution. It shouldn't be too hard to rotate either without plugs in.
I also recommend taking the valve covers off to check valve operation while you are rotating it over by hand.
If everything checks out, then you probably don't have any serious engine damage, just a bad headgasket, so start tearing into it to see what you're dealing with!! If something is wrong (ex. no compression on one cylinder when rotating it, or it binds when rotating it) then start looking for a different engine, you may have a broken rod, etc.
It all depends on how bad it blew.
If his heads and or cylinder block are not flat... resurfacing them will not guarantee a fix (something caused them to warp in the first place). Your radiator, water pump, t-stat could be to blame, if the engine overheated. Check your temp sending unit too, you may not have even known there was a problem.
Either way, you'll have to get in there sometime to find out what happened. All we can do is speculate.
Here's an easy check.. pull out all of the spark plugs and turn the engine over by hand. stick your finger over each plug hole, and have a friend rotate the engine by hand using the crank bolt. Once every 2 rotations each cylinder should build obvious pressure during the compression stroke. if NOT, then you've got bigger problems. Be prepared to rotate the engine many times to check everything.
When rotating the engine over by hand, make sure to check if it binds anywhere during each revolution. It shouldn't be too hard to rotate either without plugs in.
I also recommend taking the valve covers off to check valve operation while you are rotating it over by hand.
If everything checks out, then you probably don't have any serious engine damage, just a bad headgasket, so start tearing into it to see what you're dealing with!! If something is wrong (ex. no compression on one cylinder when rotating it, or it binds when rotating it) then start looking for a different engine, you may have a broken rod, etc.
It all depends on how bad it blew.
If his heads and or cylinder block are not flat... resurfacing them will not guarantee a fix (something caused them to warp in the first place). Your radiator, water pump, t-stat could be to blame, if the engine overheated. Check your temp sending unit too, you may not have even known there was a problem.
Either way, you'll have to get in there sometime to find out what happened. All we can do is speculate.
Good Luck!
JT
Well all thats going to tell you is if each cylinder has some kind of compression..."Not" that it didnt tweak a rod...your going to have to pull the head anyway...I'd use a dail indicator on a mag stand on the block and the test indicator tip close to were TDC should be...and rotate the assy..to see if all the pistons come up to withing a few thousands of the others on that side..then you'll know you have tweaked a rod or rods in the 2 cylinders that went down.. Most Likely because you shut it down so quick..It didnt have time to do any damage ! But since your there with the head off..Might as well check it.. Peace of mind goes along way !!
~Russ
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Blue Saphire 70 F250 42? in the making/Rollerized C6/4:10 Locker
With a Secret BBF/TBA sometime??
I agree Russ, either way Tom is gonna have to get in there to find out what happened. So Tom tear into those heads!! It'll be a great learning experience too. I recommend steve christ's "How to rebuild big-block ford engines" as a guide.
I already have "haynes" "Ford engine overhaul manual" and "Chilton's Ford Pick-ups 1965-86" do you think thats is enough or should I P/U "How to rebuild big-block ford engines" also?
From the sounds of it, a head gasket is most likely the culpirt...possible a cracked head, as they sometimes do, but baby steps. I like to look at the smallest problems first and work my way up to the larger problems as the simplest ones get ruled out. Unless you had MAJOR water pouring into the cylinders, not to worry about hydraulically imploding you rods or pistons. Back in the day we used to pout a little water down the carb while reving the engine to knock loose carbon build up from the top of the pistons and valves. Back in the day with high lead gas a carbon build-up knock was quite prevalent.
When you hear hoofs, think horses on Zebra's.
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'65 Custom Cab/Camper Special Two Tone Blue & White, 390 CID, C-6, Headers, Edlebrock Intake & 4 BBL, Flowmaster Dual Exhaust.
UPDATE: so I tore into my engine yesterday and got down to the heads, on the passenger side there was coolant puddled up in the cylinders, but on the drivers side there was a bent push rod and a broken valve retainer clip on the top of the spring and the valve was stuck in the open(down) position. but when I removed the head, the valve had broken off and imbedded itself into the piston AND cracked the block. so I guess thats it. the engines toast. Can anyone guide me on the next step? I've looked all over the net and found some new engines but either there very$$$ or no guarantee of good running condition.
Depanding where your at, FE blocks are easy to find, I now have 6 of them ranging from 352 to 427 marine Blocks. Any FE block will drop right and and used all yous parts. What ever block/engine you get, You need to go thru it and check it out fully, Once its in, it hard to fix the minor parts you missed. And No matter what one you get, NEW Oil Pump and Oil pump drive shaft, It not worth a engine thinking there all right.
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If it ante broken dont fix it.. If it is.. hit it with the biggest hammer U can find :P
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