At wits end with this damn Motorcraft 2150. - Page 3

Jermafenser · #31 (**permalink**) 07-19-2009, 09:00 PM

Thanks.

Hmm...any local junkyards that keeps the older stuff?

I think an ad in the FTE classifieds would fetch you one.

What else is missing? I probably could help find the rest of the stuff.

====

Update on mine: Backed the idle screw off a little. Much better. It's much gentler now. I found a tach - the kind you use in the cab - to set it. About 700, I hope. Idles at 1600 RPM in Park/neutral? It's right at 600-700 in drive although the idle is erratic when in gear.

66fdtrucknut · #32 (**permalink**) 07-19-2009, 09:23 PM

Mainly the stuff affiliated with the air cleaner. Mine is still idling erratic when I kick it down after it's warmed up, it will either idle fast over 800 to 1000 or 500-600 and stall. most of the time it's idling fast, Hopefully the dist. will loosen up and between setting the timing, a new set of plugs and the new choke pull off I can get it where I want it. Shame is, it used to be the best running vehicle I had before all this crap started. I see what you mean about the switch, it is backwards. with it it the main pos. it's reading the my midship tank which is supposed to be the aux. Thanks, for your help.
Charlie

Jermafenser · #33 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 01:03 AM

We have similar (if not exact) issues with our trucks, hah.

Have you rebuild the carburetor yet? Sounds like it got dirty from sitting.

I only have the air cleaner. Since it's a '78 and a federal motor, I don't have a lot of smog equipment. Just the EGR and the vacuum web.

Sounds like the choke / choke linkage is sticking. I still need to set the fast idle.

====

No problem. Hope both tanks are functional.

66fdtrucknut · #34 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 05:42 AM

Yes , rebuilt with a kit from NAPA, then took it back apart after the last tow home. On your choke adjustment dial, on the bottom theres a threaded fitting, what attatches to it?
Charlie

Jermafenser · #35 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 01:13 PM

Bottom of the choke housing? That's for the hot air stove. There should be a steel line coming from a plate on the intake manifold just in the front of the carb. Additionally, there should be another line going to the back of the engine for the fresh air assembly that goes to the nipple fitting on the back of the carburetor at 10-11 o'clock.

66fdtrucknut · #36 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 07:58 PM

I put new spark plugs in tonight, what a difference. The old ones didn't "look" too bad, just aged and as far as the appearance looked like it was running good. But it definitely made a big difference in the way it runs and idles, I sprayed the choke linkage down with some silicone spray. She's idling right at 650 -700. I'm gonna almost hate putting the new choke pull off on. I'm almost feeling confident enough to take her out on a road trip to the gas station. I keep having flashbacks of the last couple times, though. I definitely don't have any steel lines from the manifold to the choke body. Is it supposed to come from a threaded hole just to the left of the manifold vacuum port? The port where the fresh air hooks to the carb. is in the back right? Next to the where the pcv line comes in? That one was plugged, Sometimes I wonder why people do the things they do.
Charlie

Jermafenser · #37 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 10:11 PM

Good to hear the plugs made the difference. I gave mine a full tune-up - new plugs, rotor, cap, and wires. All that's left is to check/set the base timing and readjust the idle mixture.

The steel lines are shown in this pic. The assembly bolts to an opening in the intake manifold.

The PCV line goes to the large (and I mean large) nipple fitting on the back of the carburetor on the base of the carburetor.

Manifold vacuum port? If you don't have anything to hook up that needs full-time vacuum, leave it plugged. It sounds like someone screwed around the emissions on your truck.

66fdtrucknut · #38 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 05:44 AM

Nice pic. I see the plate you're talking about, right under the choke housing. I could prob. take that plate off and fab up new lines. The manifold vacuum port is in front of that it is not plugged it goes to the cannister onthe passenger side of the inner fender. What is plugged was the port on the carb next to the pcv port. I have 2 more ports on the back, 1 under the air horn, there was a line with a little filter attached there, and the angled one with molded small tube that goes to the pull-off.
Charlie

Jermafenser · #39 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 11:29 AM

The nipple just above the PCV port is the vacuum source for the EGR. The PCV shouldn't be plugged, and it is bad for the engine. It should have a short rubber boot for the steel line to go in. It goes to the driver's side valve cover where the oil filler is for the PCV. There shouldn't be a filter on the outside of the carburetor anywhere.

The port on the air is part of the fresh/hot air assembly as seen in the pic I posted up there.

I also had to fabricate the fresh/hot air assembly on my previous truck after seeing it done elsewhere. Here's a pic that I copied.

66fdtrucknut · #40 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 04:50 PM

The pcv valve nipple isn't plugged, I guess it's the one where the egr is supposed to plug in. I really appreciate your help on getting this straight, I know it has to be annoying but greatly appreciated. Thats a great idea for that part.
Charlie

66fdtrucknut · #41 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 06:45 PM

Just put on the new pull off, between all the stuff I've done to it over the last couple of days, it's running great. Fast idle is around 1150, after you kick it down 650-675. not one bit of rough idle or run-on. Next step...road trip.
Charlie

Jermafenser · #42 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 11:02 PM

Sounds like you have ironed out most if not all the issues! I'm gonna fiddle with the fast idle and gotta check the idle mixture since I set them at a different RPM the last time. Check base timing as well...and replace all the vacuum hoses. Work, work, and more work!

I braved and drove 2 miles to get gas. I made it back with a full tank of gas, but the brakes STILL needs to be looked at further. Think it's the front.

66fdtrucknut · #43 (**permalink**) 07-22-2009, 07:49 PM

Well flunked, the road trip test. same MO get a mile from the house and quits. Really getting tired of this. Runs great in the yard take it out on the road and nothing. Back to fuel delivery I guess. This is still my original problem, starting to think the eccentric on the cam is wiped, new fuel pump same problem. Funny thing the last couple of nights it's been getting plenty of fuel, tonight hardly enough to keep it running, again.
Charlie

Jermafenser · #44 (**permalink**) 07-23-2009, 12:33 AM

Hmm.

If the main tank is rusted up, then I bet the auxiliary tank isn't doing great, either. Did you drop either tank to check for its operation? Both tanks may have crap in it that are plugging up the fuel pump & lines.

Now when you say it quits, how does it quit? A slow death, or like you turned the key off?

66fdtrucknut · #45 (**permalink**) 07-23-2009, 06:00 AM

Slow death, no fuel in the filter. I've already had that tank down, I had to replace the fill hose, seems to be plenty of fuel getting to the pump. I have a old electric fuel pump, I think I'll temp. hook that up just see if it's the pump or not. Then if I have to, drop the tank again. Thanks.
Charlie