I may have to take that offer, let me see if I got it right. Gonna try tomm. night. I'm not used to all this crap on a carb. I'm used to my single barrel holley with my manual choke on my 223, doesn't get much easier than that. My troubles started when somebody stole my gas while the truck sat for the winter, then it was one thing after another, rust, fuel pump, dropping the tank, 60 bucks for the midship tank fill hose etc. wherabouts in MD. are you?
Charlie
__________________
62' F-100 SWB uni 223
65' F-100 SWB 352
78' F-150 Ranger XLT 351M
09' F-150 LWB 4.6
I know I don't have a 66'....long story
The same thing happened to mine. The truck sat for over a year before I bought it. I dropped the rear aft-of-axle tank and cleaned it out. The gas was orange! Tested the sending unit. Replaced the float, filter, and put a new gasket on it. Then replaced all rubber hoses. Lastly, put the new filler hose on it. Like new now.
I also have dual tanks. I haven't touched the midship one yet, since it's a lower priority. I'm running from the rear tank for now.
To adjust the choke linkage: Test the choke pulloff diaphragm with a manual vacuum pump. Turn the choke housing 90 degrees from the index mark (to richen it, towards the firewall). Apply vacuum to it. It should hold vacuum. If it doesn't, the diaphragm has ruptured. Replace it. After that step is done, check the butterfly clearance. It should clear a 9/16 drill bit acting as a feeler gauge. After that, open the throttle then slowly close it while looking at the fast idle cam. The fast idle screw should be resting on the V mark on the notch on the cam when the throttle is closed. If it doesn't, adjust it via the screw on top, where the plastic part is. After adjusting, open & close the throttle several times to ensure the fast idle screw is right on the V mark every time.
Thanks, that actually doesn't sound too bad. My main tank is rusted up, thats why I'm using the aux. tank. I had to bypass the tank solenoid, either it or the switch is bad. I'm getting power when the switch is in the aux pos but the valve is is in the main tank, if I switch it to main, theres no power to the valve. It being only one wire, I don't really know how it works, I'll deal with it later.
Charlie
__________________
62' F-100 SWB uni 223
65' F-100 SWB 352
78' F-150 Ranger XLT 351M
09' F-150 LWB 4.6
I know I don't have a 66'....long story
It's easy to test the selector switch. I tested it for the first time not too long ago along with the repair listed above. It's basically a plunger that is electronically activated. One port is activated when the solenoid is energized. When you flip the switch, it kills the power so the other port will be activated. From what you did, it sounds like it's working fine.
You'll need a test light or a multimeter.
The one wire is hot; the body serves as the ground.
What really confused me is how Ford wired the tanks. From the test I did, I discovered the rear aft-of-axle is serving as AUXILIARY tank! This means the front midship tank is serving as MAIN tank. On my truck: AUX (switch up) the engine is getting gas from the rear aft-of-axle tank. MAIN (switch down) the engine gets gas from the midship saddle tank. I decide to ignore the words AUX/Main and to remember switch up = rear tank. Switch down = front tank. Much simpler.
Take a test light. Carefully remove the solenoid plug. Clean the contacts with electronics contact cleaner. Then test the plug. It should light up or read 12V when the switch is on AUX. If it does, then that part is working correctly. Then switch to MAIN. It shouldn't read any volts/light off.
The solenoid is labeled M & A, when I checked it, it clicks but doesn't move to the feed the A side when I flip the switch. Should the gauge still read whether or not the solenoid is hooked up?
Charlie
__________________
62' F-100 SWB uni 223
65' F-100 SWB 352
78' F-150 Ranger XLT 351M
09' F-150 LWB 4.6
I know I don't have a 66'....long story
Yes. The fuel gauge is separated entirely from the solenoid. It's nearly impossible to check which feed it is on without checking for the power / switch position.
I'd take the time to drop both tanks, test everything and replace where necessary. I wanted to drop the midship tank today, but it started raining.
I'd test the sending unit, the plug, and ground to make sure it's operational.
I got her running again, still idling erratic, checked the timing, it's off, got frustrated trying to get to the bolt that holds down the dist. (could they put it a much harder place to get to?) At least it's running again.
Charlie
__________________
62' F-100 SWB uni 223
65' F-100 SWB 352
78' F-150 Ranger XLT 351M
09' F-150 LWB 4.6
I know I don't have a 66'....long story
Yes, if you have AC. If you have a 1/2 socket with a swivel built in it you might get it on, I even tried a 1/4 universal an shallow socket, you just can't get it under the distrib. Went to a little parts store and found a set of cheap dist. wrenches, which is basically a right angled wrench. I could get that on but couldn't turn it, I cut a inch out of it and welded it back together and it works fine. I spent a whole 4.75 cents for the wrenches.
Charlie
__________________
62' F-100 SWB uni 223
65' F-100 SWB 352
78' F-150 Ranger XLT 351M
09' F-150 LWB 4.6
I know I don't have a 66'....long story
1/2'' wrench, sad part is it doesn't look like the PIA it really is. I ordered a new choke pull off, I figured for 21 bucks it was worth putting a new one on. I would love to find a stock air cleaner for it, the PO has a aftermarket chrome air cleaner on it and it's missing certain things. I'd like to put it back to bone stock.
Charlie
__________________
62' F-100 SWB uni 223
65' F-100 SWB 352
78' F-150 Ranger XLT 351M
09' F-150 LWB 4.6
I know I don't have a 66'....long story
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