Can someone tell me if I am completely out to lunch or if I just have a faulty controller. I recently picked up an 06 F350. It had a 6 pin conecctor in the back and a Reese controller in the cab. I went to swap out the 6 pin for a 7 pin. All of the lights work but I am getting 12 volts at the brake pin on the connector at the bumper. I checked the wiring schematics and the factory "blue" wire is connected to the right pin at the bumper. The blue wire carries on back to the controller. I Tested each wire (red, white, black, blue) at the controller. White showed good ground (near zero ohms when tested between the wire and a ground point under the dash. The red wire (which is connected to the green/yellow wire going to the brake pedal) shows 12 volts when pressed. Black wire ( which is connected to 12 volt suppply at battery) shows constant 12 volts. BUT...the blue wire shows 12 volts constantly. Not just when the brakes are pressed or the overide switch/slider is depressed.
If the blue wire shows 12vdc constantly out of the controller and the red wire isn't hooked to the "hot" side of the brakelight switch, you've got a bad controller.
Steve
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Black 2004 Explorer XLT Sport 4.6L as my "boat hauler" for Lake Havasu/Lake Mohave runs
"I used to be wishy-washy, but now I'm not sure"
"There are 2 methods for dealing with women - neither one works"
Since I am only getting 12 volts on the red wire (which is connected to the ford factory green/yellow wire from the brake pedal) when the pedal is pressed, then I assume that means that I am NOT connected to the hot side. If I was, I would think that I would always get 12 volts on that wire. Is that correct?
Right - your red wire is hooked up correctly (power to the controller only when you hit the brakes) so there's no reason for the controller to be powering the blue wire constantly unless it's bad. I assume this happens whether the ignition is on or off?
Steve
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Black 2004 Explorer XLT Sport 4.6L as my "boat hauler" for Lake Havasu/Lake Mohave runs
"I used to be wishy-washy, but now I'm not sure"
"There are 2 methods for dealing with women - neither one works"
You have a six pin plug... there are two six pin standards. The only difference is the 12v constant pin and the brake pin. Swap those two wires on one of the two plugs (truck or trailer, not both!) and everything will work. This is a very common issue.
The controller is fine.
This is why most trailers now use the 7 pin standard, since it is a STANDARD and there are no flavors of it.
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Nathan
2002 F150 SuperCab Short Bed FX4 5.4L V8 Firestone Load Level Air Suspension - totalled by Spradley Barr Ford
1995 K3500 Regular cab 8' bed 4x4 6.5L
2007 Featherlite 8413 20x7x7' Stock Trailer
737ngdriver posted that he "tested each wire (red, white, black, blue) at the controller" and "the blue wire shows 12 volts constantly"; if so, then swapping wires at the 6-pin isn't going to help.
Steve
__________________
Black 2004 Explorer XLT Sport 4.6L as my "boat hauler" for Lake Havasu/Lake Mohave runs
"I used to be wishy-washy, but now I'm not sure"
"There are 2 methods for dealing with women - neither one works"
Normally there is a 12v sense signal from the brake controller. It uses this to insure it is seeing the magnets indicating a complete circuit. If it don't see this you should see a Fault lite on the controller. On most 7 pin connectors there is also a 12vdc circuit for aux power, like powering jacks or charging the RV battery while you are driving.
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2000 F250 4 x 4 88,000 miles as of 05/11/2009, conventional cab, longbed,Reese rail system gooseneck hitch
synthetic motor oil
six speed manual transmission.
AIS intake, 4" turbo back Magnaflow S/S exhaust
inlet & outlet pyrometers & boost gauge
It is the 7 pin connector that I have installed and I didn't hook up the aux line for charging the battery on the RV (i plan to get that done once i get this solved) The only wires conected to the 7 pin are the four for the lights, the ground white wire and the blue brake wire.
So stormyrider, the 12v sense signal you refer to should be coming from where and which pin would it be connected to at the back of the truck.\\Its a Reese controler, four wires coming out. Blue, Black, Red and White
Not sure why you have 4 wires on that 7-pin for lights; you should have 1 for running lights and 1 each for right and left taillight/turn signals, plus ground and brakes. The other 2 are for 12vdc power with the key on, and power (center) when in reverse.
The line that puts power to the brakes acts as the sense line, that is why you see 12v on it. on mine it is a blue wire coming off the brake controller.
At the controller, the white wire is ground, red wire from truck to black wire on controller is 12vdc power, green wire from truck to red wire on controller is from the brake light switch, tells controller when you are stopping, blue wire goes to trailer brakes.
__________________
2000 F250 4 x 4 88,000 miles as of 05/11/2009, conventional cab, longbed,Reese rail system gooseneck hitch
synthetic motor oil
six speed manual transmission.
AIS intake, 4" turbo back Magnaflow S/S exhaust
inlet & outlet pyrometers & boost gauge
Stormy's post explains how controllers determine whether a trailer is plugged in; that sense signal must be very low amperage to keep from activating the brakes.
Steve
__________________
Black 2004 Explorer XLT Sport 4.6L as my "boat hauler" for Lake Havasu/Lake Mohave runs
"I used to be wishy-washy, but now I'm not sure"
"There are 2 methods for dealing with women - neither one works"
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