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Old 06-24-2009, 11:52 PM
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Really weird problems with my v-10

Last week, my truck threw a code. I took it up to the autozone to see what it was. They said it was the mass air flow sensor and it was idlin like crap. I didnt have the money to fix it. So i unplugged it and it ran fine (a quick fix till i get $$). But starting yesterday, the truck started hesitating. Any time over 1800-2000k,it would hesitate like crazy. What do you guys think the problem is? Also, it smells like crap in and around my truck (like eggs, mayb the cat is bad?) and their is a decent amount of black soot under my rig. Do you guys think that since the MAF is unplugged that the v-10 ran so rich that it clogged the cat, hench makin it hesitat almost like a sputter?

Second problem, before i unplugged the MAF, the trans was shifting fine. Right after i took it off, it started shifting ruff. Do you guys think their is anything wrong with my trans? The torq convertor engages fine and the trans only shifts rough sometimes, not every time. It also shifts from park to drive rough but doesnt do it in reverse. Do u guys think this trans problem could be the MAF bein unplugged?

Third problem, When i go from park to drive, the truck makes a weird and very faint whistling noise on the left bank of the motor (if your lookin at the engine from the front of the truck lol). I think their mayb a slight vaccum leak because one of the hoses has some slight cracks in it. Its one of the hoses on the left side of the throttle body. Do you think that could be causin the hesitations?

The truck is a 2001 v-10 4x2 with 144k on it. I dont think the trans is bad because i religously (no joke) changed the fluid on it every 20k and only towed 6k twice a year. So this trans has been babied its whole life. I dont know what to do because i have only had literally 3 problems with this truck its entire life and i am the orig owner haha. Any tips would be appriciated. Vids and pics of the sounds and hoses will be posted soon
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:42 AM
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http://good-times.webshots.com/video...02940326JgnubU Heres a vid. it has to be loud in order to here the sputter/hesitation. Ill post a pic tomorrow when its light out of the hose.
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:15 AM
BareBones BareBones is offline
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You're probably right on. I'd think that unplugging the MAF would make the computer think either that there's always a LOT of air, or that there's always very little. Since it ran so well after being unplugged, I'd have to conclude its the LOT of air extreme, leading to the fuel-rich mixture clogging the cat. I like your thinking on this.

My question would then be though, when a cat is in this condition, does the engine performance suffer, or does it just spew unburned crap out the tailpipe.

You might try two things. One is maybe removing and cleaning the oxygen sensor on the cat, and the other might be to reattach the MAF to see which situation the truck is most tolerable for you.

It might also be possible that unplugging both the MAF and 02 sensor would put the engine into open loop operation, but I have a hard time believing that it would be that easy to defeat the engine's polution controls...
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:53 AM
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That sounds like a good idea! I still need to find out why the trans is shiftin rough. Its weird cause like the v-10, it to was runnin fine until i took the MAF out. Does anybody think the trans runnin rough correlates with no MAF? Ive read up on MAF's, IAC's, etc and all know what they do on a v-10. But ive never read up on a O2 sensor. What do they do?
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:07 AM
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Running the truck with the MAF unplugged is A VERY BAD IDEA. The MAF is very important and not having it or without it functioning properly will effect the engine and then probably throw off the trans off also because the engine is acting up.

Did you try cleaning the MAF with some MAF cleaner? If cleaning it doesn't help you got two choices in my book either buy a new MAF or don't drive the truck. Keep running the truck without the MAF you'll likely do damage a lot more expensive than what a new MAF costs.

Quote:
But ive never read up on a O2 sensor. What do they do?
The O2s work in conjuntion with the MAF to keep the tuned A/F ratio among other things. Without the MAF is just as important as the O2s.

Quote:
Does anybody think the trans runnin rough correlates with no MAF?
I do.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:46 AM
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Clean the MAF, but ALSO - sounds like you have the dreaded PCV elbow vacuum leak.
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:07 PM
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Thanks DKF and krewat for the info. I clean the MAF at least once a year so i kno its clean. I also cleaned it when it threw the code.

Krewat, wats the dreaded PCV elbow vaccum leak? In conjunction with a clogged cat and no maf, could this also contribute to a hesitation or sputter? Do you have any pics?

And DKF, do you think i should plug the maf back in even though its bad and run the truck or just stop usin it until i get a new one?
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:59 PM
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What was the exact code?

The PCV elbow is on the throttle body, on the right side. If it breaks, unmetered air gets past the MAF and it can throw a lean code, which some people may say is a "MAF code".

Also, any other leak in the intake between the MAF and the throttle body can do exactly what you are describing.
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by i eat hybrids View Post
Does anybody think the trans runnin rough correlates with no MAF?
Yes, it does correlate. The transmission software uses the reading from the MAF to calculate how much torque the engine is producing, and from this it determines how much pressure the transmission needs. Without the MAF reading it just uses max pressure. That should kill the trans in a little while.
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Old 06-25-2009, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krewat View Post
What was the exact code?

The PCV elbow is on the throttle body, on the right side. If it breaks, unmetered air gets past the MAF and it can throw a lean code, which some people may say is a "MAF code".

Also, any other leak in the intake between the MAF and the throttle body can do exactly what you are describing.

Ill have to go to autozone to get the code read again. I dont rember it off the top of my head nor do i have the reciept. Do you think i should get it read before buying a new MAF?

Thanks for the info mark! After hearin that, im parkin it until i get the maf.
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:47 PM
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I would go to a shop someone with a better code reader and some knowhow to go along with it. Check the elbow also for cracking like krewat suggested just to make shure its ok. I'd plug the MAF back in and parking it is a good idea until its fixed. If you have someone with a similar year Ford you could unbolt the MAF(2 security torx screws) from their vehicle and try it in your truck. I think at least the 02'-04' explorers use the same MAF at least it looks the same.(Could check some part numbers)

PCV Elbow thread
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/64...got-lucky.html
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:08 PM
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I also for got to add, once the check eng light came on and i found out that the code read the maf. It was running like crap at any rpms. Once i unplugged it, it ran fine for a couple of days until it started hesitating/sputtering. The reason why i ask is, wouldnt this deff suggest the MAF. Because since the maf's bad, i hate to drive my truck up their and risk the doin damage to the trans to see what the exact code is.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:12 PM
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Also, i was skimming through ebay to see what i can find for MAF's. I came accross this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-M...4506.m20.l1116

Its cheap. But notice on the chart that it doesnt list the excursion. But it list the 2001 v-10. So wouldnt this work for my truck? It seems like a cheap price instead of payin 250 dollars lol. Do you guys think this is a good way to go?
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Old 06-26-2009, 09:44 AM
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I'm willing to bet the X will use the same MAF as the SD. It says the MAF is OE but I usually go by the old "You Get What You Pay For" saying. It may be the same MAF you get from the dealer. It just wonders me though if the MAFs the guy is selling on ebay are 2nds or something. Maybe MAFs that tested outside the accetable accuracy range or something. Just a thought. If it were me I would spend the money and buy one from the dealer or the old FTE parts guy. The MAF is extremely important.

Also I would look at the connections on the plug and where plug plugs into the MAF. Make shure theres no corrosion or bent contacts.
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Old 06-26-2009, 10:23 AM
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How much does the FTE parts guy sell em for?
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