Really weird problems with my v-10

[dkf]

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0 Looks like there might be a $75 core charge. You'll have to ask about that. The core charge is usually refundable once they get the core.

[Krewat]

First, have you removed the MAF yet and verified that there's nothing stuck to it? We've had one or two people with the same sort of problems, turned out one had a leaf stuck to it, another had a WASP stuck to it

DO NOT just run out and buy parts until you verify that there are no vacuum leaks, all the hoses are hooked up properly to the intake tube, etc.

As for the "OEM but not really" parts on eBay, rejects are rejected on the product line. They usually don't get sold off as aftermarket. It's an old wives' tale for the most part.

I know someone in the wholesale distributor chain that does/did auto and marine parts. If it's got the original numbers on it, for instance a Ford part with the Ford part number and logo, it made it off the same assembly line as the rest of them. If they tested out of spec, they get dumped, not sold to the aftermarket.

The guy on eBay probably bought a pile of parts from a closed-down Ford dealer, or some other distributor, or has a connection in the business where he can get the parts at super-wholesale/jobber prices.

Even local auto parts stores sell parts at crazy prices to local shops who do big business with them. I can get parts locally for ABS systems, all sorts of things, at more than a 60% discount from what a person walking in off the street pays. If a MAF were say $250 LIST at the dealer, the dealer can (and will) sell that same part for 50% off list as a wholesale item to the local mechanic. The dealer's cost is probably more like 75% off of list, which makes it around $62.50 their cost, meanwhile, Ford really buys them at something like $30 each or even less. You get the idea.

eBay has changed the landscape for many wholesale distributors because the supply-chain (middle men) has been circumvented.

[i eat hybrids]

thanks for the tip krewat. I dont really wanna buy parts and spend money when i dont have to. So i hacked the cat off today lol and it doesnt hesitate as nearly as bad as it did. But, theres still a hesitation their. So im either thinkin its cause the MAF aint plugged in or cause theirs a vaccum leak somewere.

[i eat hybrids]

Originally Posted by dkf

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0

Looks like there might be a $75 core charge. You'll have to ask about that. The core charge is usually refundable once they get the core.

Thanks dkf. Ill have to keep that in mind, once i fig out if its a vaccum leak or MAF. But thats cheaper then autozone haha.

[i eat hybrids]

So i went back to autozone yesterday once i got time off of work just to see if they can get the codes off. It turns out, four codes poped up. They are, P0174, P0171, P0102, and P0113.

[Johnny Langton]

Originally Posted by i eat hybrids

So i went back to autozone yesterday once i got time off of work just to see if they can get the codes off. It turns out, four codes poped up. They are, P0174, P0171, P0102, and P0113.

P0102-Mass or Volume Air Flow "A" Circuit Low-caused by you having it unplugged.

P0113-Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High (Bank 1)
This one could be causing that hesitation. If the PCM thinks that the inlet air temp is too high,it'll retard ignition timing to prevent knock.

P0171-System Too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174-System Too Lean (Bank 2)
You've got a vacuum leak. Fix that too.
JL

[i eat hybrids]

Thanks JL! Rep points given. Where do you think i should start with this vacumm leak? PCV? I need some pics of this. As for the P0102, i plugged the MAF back in before i went to autozone again. The trans shifts fine now and the truck only sometimes hesitates instead of hesitating every time i take off.

[Krewat]

It's either a "vacuum leak" or unmetered air (air getting in the intake tubing, after the MAF has a chance to sense it).

Although lean might also mean lack of fuel pressure.

[i eat hybrids]

So were do you guys think i should start? by replacing the MAF?

[Krewat]

Originally Posted by i eat hybrids

So were do you guys think i should start? by replacing the MAF?

I'm going to ask one more time, nicely

Did you remove the MAF and make sure there's nothing stuck to it and that's it's still nice and clean?

And inspect the intake tubing and vacuum lines for anything disconnected, leaking, cracked, ANYTHING?

[i eat hybrids]

ya i inspected the lines. Nothin cracked or loose. The MAF has nothin stuck in it. I cleaned it out last week with MAF cleaner.

[dave91gt]

MAF's rarely go bad. I would check the PCV elbow.

[wb6anp]

I installed an intake system on my V-10 powered motorhome and forgot to plug the Maff in, I got the p0113 code, it also hesitated and went into limp mode, also caused the trans light (wrench) to flash. ran great once I plugged it back in. The inlet air temp is part of the maf sensor, at least on the 2008 model.