I've been thinking about getting a set of 2 1/2 ton rockwells to put under my pickup. But im wondering how much stronger in stock form are they them what i have. I know there are HUGE shafts for rockwells, but spendy. so running the stock shafts what could i expect with my 44s? i already located wheel centers to run my 15 inch wheels and getting them under the rig is not a problem. Right now i have a D60 front 35 spline shafts with drive flanges, rear 10.25 stock shafts.
Well so far in my D60 I have broke one stock 30 spline outer and one 35 spline outer. Alond with a couple lockouts, and most recently a ring and pinion.
I have never worried about the driveshafts in the first place. I'm runnin 1410 joints in the rear and little 1330s in the front. I'm wonderin if the stock rockwell shafts would hold up. (The ujoint style) I wouldn't want to go through the trouble and cost of puttin rocks in, than have to turn around and spend $1000 some on some new shafts.
The rock shafts are going to be stronger than what you are running.
A D60 w/ high spline made of some unobtanium will definitely be stronger than stock rockwells. But stock to stock, rocks are going to be way better than a D60. I've literally tried to break my shafts to no avail. I'm not running 500+ hp though (yet).
You won't break a ring and pinion. A couple people have though.
Dave S. is right, your rock shafts will go before your D-shafts. You can use your current D-shafts since you have 1410's on the axle end, some companies make 1410 flanges for rocks.
Well if the shafts in the rocks are stronger than what i have, than i'm going to keep an eye out for a set of rocks, in my area i've seen then sell for as little as $500 for a front and rear. than i'll just keep my D60 and 10.25 for another project down the road.. the only thing i dont like is that i would have to lift the front of the pickup higher to clear the front of the oil pan, or cut out a crossmember and have the front axle closser to the fromt of the pickup. I already found some wheel centers to run my wheels i have and i could get the overall width of the pickup about the same as it is now.. Also i think i worded the joint size wrong.. the rear Dshaft has 1410s at both ends, the front Dshaft has 1330s at both ends.. I would like the little lower gearing that the rocks would give me vs. my 5.38s i have now too.
The reason i asked about the rocks shaft strength in the first place is a friend of mine had a bobbed 2 1/2 ton that broke one rear shaft and 2 fronts within a month of each other. i thought they broke rather easy..
the only thing i dont like is that i would have to lift the front of the pickup higher to clear the front of the oil pan, or cut out a crossmember and have the front axle closser to the fromt of the pickup.
Well you could just notch the engine crossmember or cut it out and make your own side mounts leaving the oil pan exposed, then put a crossmember up front.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hav24wheel
Also i think i worded the joint size wrong.. the rear Dshaft has 1410s at both ends, the front Dshaft has 1330s at both ends.. I would like the little lower gearing that the rocks would give me vs. my 5.38s i have now too.
You can still run the front shaft too, if you can find a b_astard joint 1330/1410
Quote:
Originally Posted by hav24wheel
The reason i asked about the rocks shaft strength in the first place is a friend of mine had a bobbed 2 1/2 ton that broke one rear shaft and 2 fronts within a month of each other. i thought they broke rather easy..
Bobbed as in his front and rear are bobbed, or as in he narrowed the axles?
Well you could just notch the engine crossmember or cut it out and make your own side mounts leaving the oil pan exposed, then put a crossmember up front.
You can still run the front shaft too, if you can find a b_astard joint 1330/1410
Bobbed as in his front and rear are bobbed, or as in he narrowed the axles?
Well the front crossmember on mine is not under the oil pan, i have a 78 frame under my 92 body. its in front of the engine.. but yes i could remake it into something to clear.
by bobbed i mean he took a 6x6 and cut the back off and made it into a 4x4. wheelbase about 135-140 inches.
Running 99 Stroke drive shafts with 1410 U joints.
If you have a 205 transfer case you need 1410 flanges for it, can't remember what he said they cost.
His Rockwells came with 1410 flanges on them.
First time out with the 390 power plant, slightly modded, right rear axle shaft.
All of the mud guys here run together, and between them they carry several axle shafts (front and rear) and the tools to change them.
Don't forget the broom handle, pull the opposite axle shaft and push the inner broken piece out with the broom handle.
40 minutes and they have it running again.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
I built a 98 chevy with those axles had to get a shafts built for it. the stock one kept snaping I had a 402 30 over and a richmond 6 speed and a dorvored t-case 52" tractor tires top speed 55 67 down hill. never ran in mud i lived in northern pa then and did alot of rock crawing.
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