Anyone here have any good tips on polishing aluminum rims? Im doing the ones on my truck, using mothers polish, the stuff that turns black.
Its turning out OK, but thats about it, just OK. I tried using a dremel last night, and I had to be very careful to keep the rpms down, but it worked ok. Also for tight spots I used an electric toothbrush, and it took along time, but did a bang up job.
Anyone out there have any good hints, tips advice for polishing?
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$Sheldon$
2003 F-250 supercab shortbox 4x4 lariat
~Everythings legal man as long as ya dont get caught~
Any pics of the rims? The mini powerball speeds things up very much when working open areas. I've never used the Mother's polish but i am a huge fan of Megs all metal polysh. The shine seems to last for weeks.
If the wheels are clear coated, you'll have to cut through the clear before you start polishing the aluminum. Mother's Mag and Al works pretty good, but it's kind of abrasive compared to some other products. If the wheels are bare, I would pick up a power ball and power metal polish. If you want a shinier finish when you get done, I would run Mother's billet polish over.
Lastly, Polished wheels will look good until they start to oxidize. Good polishes have a moly wax in them that will protect the finish for a short while, but you need to keep on top of them or have them clear coated. A plain cleaner wax will keep them pretty if you go either way.
All metal polishes will turn black as they remove the oxidation from the aluminum.
Before we got rid of the dump truck, I use to keep the wheels, tank and aluminum box polished. The wheels, tank and steps were pretty bad when we first got the truck. To bring them back to life, I used 000 steel wool dipped in laquer thinner, then Busch Aluminum Polish and then their Wax Sealant. The box would stay looking good for quite a few months, good thing cause I'd only do that twice a year.
Once you get the wheels looking somewhat decent, you will see improvement every time you polish them.
We are building a new house, and my woman takes the camera every day, so I havent been able to get a picture of them.
I did get them somewhat polished, used a mothers powerball mini, and went to town. It worked OK, but there is some black residue left that is barely noticeable, but up close you can see it.
What Im gonna try is leave them like they are for awhile (they look good just not perfect) and wash the truck when it needs it, and in a few months polish them up again.
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$Sheldon$
2003 F-250 supercab shortbox 4x4 lariat
~Everythings legal man as long as ya dont get caught~
I don't know what happened to the Chip Foose video tutorial on the mother's site, but he showed polishing one wheel. He polished it with a power ball, then dunked it in a bucket of water to clean the power ball. I guess he spun dried the powerball and then used it to buff the wheel. If it could put the polish in the tight corners, it might be able to pull it out.
Sand out scratches and nicks, work up to about 400 grit, then Mothers. Folks at finishing.com say it's better to use proper polishing compounds and wax instead. Here's some recipes for homebrew polishes: http://www.finishing.com/111/51-2.shtml
You can buy big sticks of the polishing compounds at big truck supply stores, a lot cheaper than at auto parts or hardware stores. I'm going to try a buffing wheel on the 4000 rpm Milwaukee straight grinder that followed my home from the last swap meet. The speed should be OK for a 6" to 8" wheel. It would be nice to get my wheels shiny in minutes instead of hours, and not end up with black fingertips.
I can't get my aluminum wheels clean, either. I have not tried any type of sanding or rubbing compounds- didn't know if that would ruin them. Metal polishers don't work by themselves. My rims seem to have brown pock-marks: should i use sandpaper or use a homemade polish like the ones on the link from angus?
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1986 F250 XLT Lariat 4X4, 6.9L IDI, C6, 33's, and a huge "bambi basher" up front
If the surface is etched, then your going to have to smooth it out before you will get very shiny. Sanding is going to be a fast way, but it's pretty easy to get the surface uneven. I've heard of using glass as a backing for the sand paper, as it has a very low run out, for long, flat surfaces.
I have Weld wheels. I use the Mothers mini speed ball with the aluminum polish that's made for the speed ball.it works great.I've also heard that if you hit the rims with a corn startch paste it'll buff them like a mirror.I haven't tried this yet,but I'll probably give it a shot.
I have Weld wheels. I use the Mothers mini speed ball with the aluminum polish that's made for the speed ball.it works great.I've also heard that if you hit the rims with a corn startch paste it'll buff them like a mirror.I haven't tried this yet,but I'll probably give it a shot.
I tried the corn starch thing and IMO, don't waste your time. I would imagine it works if your aluminum is almost mirror like to begin with, but to bring it to that point is going to take time, effort and patience. There are no miracle fixes out there and I've tried just about all of the "promised" ones looking for the easy way.
Maybe you should try making a paste with ground corn cob instead of starch. I'm told you can get it from pet shops as rat bedding, crushed walnut is alittle less abrasive and is sold as lizzard bedding. Both work pretty well in my case polisher, but it takes an hour or two (or a lot more) if my brass is corroded. About 30 minutes if it's still somewhat shiny and just needs a buff.
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