am i getting a good deal?
#1
am i getting a good deal?
im looking at a fx4 fully loaded, msrp is 43000 and the dealer wants me to put down 7000 and my payments would be 598 for 72 months, also i am tradeing in my wrangler which i owe 24000 on, dealer said they would give me 20000 on it,a loss of 4000, am i being ripped off?
#2
#3
my 2006 F-150 Supercrew FX4 had a MSRP of almost $44,000
it just depends what options you pick up on it.
forget the payments. Get cold hard #'s. As presented, your deal is a huge buttrape. In addition, there is anywhere from $2,500 - $6,000 in rebates available for your purchase as well
Unless you are somewhere like me, you can pretty much set your terms on the sale if the #'s are reasonable. And if they don't play ball, just walk away and talk to another dealership.
it just depends what options you pick up on it.
forget the payments. Get cold hard #'s. As presented, your deal is a huge buttrape. In addition, there is anywhere from $2,500 - $6,000 in rebates available for your purchase as well
$43,000 sticker price
-$7,000 downpayment
+$4,000 negative equity
=$40,000
- $2,500 rebate
= $37,500 to finance with your current deal
which is utter crap. visit New Cars, Used Cars, Car Reviews and Pricing - Edmunds.com and get the invoice pricing for that truck...that is the point where you want to start negotiating. Not from MSRP.
MSRP is just a kindly way for them to stick you with $4-5,000 of extra $$$ that has no justification. Invoice pricing is closer to the trucks actual value, and will minimize what you actually pay
Using Edmunds.Com, I built a similar priced FX4. The Invoice pricing was almost $5,000 less than the MSRP price. So lets rework the #'s using that price instead.-$7,000 downpayment
+$4,000 negative equity
=$40,000
- $2,500 rebate
= $37,500 to finance with your current deal
which is utter crap. visit New Cars, Used Cars, Car Reviews and Pricing - Edmunds.com and get the invoice pricing for that truck...that is the point where you want to start negotiating. Not from MSRP.
MSRP is just a kindly way for them to stick you with $4-5,000 of extra $$$ that has no justification. Invoice pricing is closer to the trucks actual value, and will minimize what you actually pay
$38,000 sticker price
-$7,000 downpayment
+$4,000 negative equity
=$35,000
- $2,500 rebate...and like I said, you can squeeze almost $6,000 depending on your qualifications
= $32,500 to finance
-$7,000 downpayment
+$4,000 negative equity
=$35,000
- $2,500 rebate...and like I said, you can squeeze almost $6,000 depending on your qualifications
= $32,500 to finance
Unless you are somewhere like me, you can pretty much set your terms on the sale if the #'s are reasonable. And if they don't play ball, just walk away and talk to another dealership.
I just bought the 2008 Expy in my signature.
MSRP sticker price was $50,000
I paid $38,000 for it...and I should have been able to get another $4-5,000 off. But I live in Hawaii and my options are very very limited.
I can't just go down the road, and they know it. You can however...use that Power. It is a huge bargaining chip for you.
MSRP sticker price was $50,000
I paid $38,000 for it...and I should have been able to get another $4-5,000 off. But I live in Hawaii and my options are very very limited.
I can't just go down the road, and they know it. You can however...use that Power. It is a huge bargaining chip for you.
#5
Biggest scam for dealers, selling a payment and not moving on actual price of vehicle.
Rule 1. Agree on actual sale of price of new vehicle BEFORE any discussion of trade or down payment.
Rule 2. Know what your trade is worth before talking to dealer.
Rule 3. Know what you can finance and what it will cost before going to any dealer.
The first thing a salesman will ask you is " How much do you want to pay monthly?"
They do not want you walking out that door, Impulse is a dangerous thing when buying autos. That is why they have a no cooling off period. You sign, you own.
Walk out and write down the #'s and think about it. They make these trucks everyday and NOBODY can force you to buy.
Rule 1. Agree on actual sale of price of new vehicle BEFORE any discussion of trade or down payment.
Rule 2. Know what your trade is worth before talking to dealer.
Rule 3. Know what you can finance and what it will cost before going to any dealer.
The first thing a salesman will ask you is " How much do you want to pay monthly?"
They do not want you walking out that door, Impulse is a dangerous thing when buying autos. That is why they have a no cooling off period. You sign, you own.
Walk out and write down the #'s and think about it. They make these trucks everyday and NOBODY can force you to buy.
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#8
you should easily be able to make your payment goal. Now forget about the payments and negotiate a price first. once you negotiate the price your payments will be fine. by the way 589x72=$42,408. according to Tylus' earlier calculation thats ~5 grand more than the actual price you "negotiated".
Tell the dealer you will pay the invoice price minus all rebates and not a penny more. Make them show you the invoice price. Even if they tell you they cant do that they can and will to make a sale.
Tell the dealer you will pay the invoice price minus all rebates and not a penny more. Make them show you the invoice price. Even if they tell you they cant do that they can and will to make a sale.
#9
66 and Tylus are spot on! A dealer would be flat stupid to not sell a vehicle at invoice vs risk losing the sale all together in these times. The invoice has hidden items reserved for the dealer, they receive a hold back which you can see on the invoice also, and the factory rewards the dealers with incentives and the supply of more profitable and popular models based on their sales numbers.
Be a buyer and not a VICTIM!
Be a buyer and not a VICTIM!
#10
you should easily be able to make your payment goal. Now forget about the payments and negotiate a price first. once you negotiate the price your payments will be fine. by the way 589x72=$42,408. according to Tylus' earlier calculation thats ~5 grand more than the actual price you "negotiated".
Tell the dealer you will pay the invoice price minus all rebates and not a penny more. Make them show you the invoice price. Even if they tell you they cant do that they can and will to make a sale.
Tell the dealer you will pay the invoice price minus all rebates and not a penny more. Make them show you the invoice price. Even if they tell you they cant do that they can and will to make a sale.
quit negotiating based on the payment
you are going to get screwed over.
instead, get your own financing. tell the Bank what payment you want, and they'll give you a bottom line maximum amount you can finance.
you are trying to buy too much truck for $450 a month. a rough average is $20 per $1,000 financed with average credit. That $450 payment you are after is about a $22-25,000 deal.
vice about $800+ for the $43,000 deal.
great credit gets about $16 per $1,000 financed.
great credit gets about $16 per $1,000 financed.
I know the FX4 is the ****...but you might should drop down to a nicely loaded XLT. That can get you under $30,000 pretty easily
#12
Dsifer,
I traded in an 08 wrangler unlimited and was in worse shape perhaps even than you.
The way it REALLY works is to do the deal either as a retail to retail or wholesale to wholesale deal. Sounds like your dealer is doing the former, giving you higher trade for the wrangler so they can charge you more for the truck. Either way, the numbers will come out close.
Negotiate the high-end price of the truck down some.
Thing is, based on your second post your reaching...WAY too high.
I traded in an 08 wrangler unlimited and was in worse shape perhaps even than you.
The way it REALLY works is to do the deal either as a retail to retail or wholesale to wholesale deal. Sounds like your dealer is doing the former, giving you higher trade for the wrangler so they can charge you more for the truck. Either way, the numbers will come out close.
Negotiate the high-end price of the truck down some.
Thing is, based on your second post your reaching...WAY too high.
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