- $2,500 rebate everybody gets...and like I said, you can squeeze almost $6,000 depending on your qualifications
= $34,500 to finance
Quote:
Originally Posted by soundwave
I too, will need a monthly payment of $500 or less, over 72months. Thats the allowance I give myself for a truck payment. I, at this time, have great credit and plan for it to stay that way. Sooo..
500
x 72
------
$36,000
Are you all telling me, that with the above info about my situation I posted, I could not get the TOATAL amount, after tax, tags, finanace charges, etc..to $36,000 or less on a new FX4 Screw or Scab with the above mentioned options???
yes...I paid a hair over $36,000 for my 2006 FX4 w/ Luxury package...and it's MSRP was almost $44,000 to start. It's very possible if you just sit back and wait. Jumping into a bad situation is just stupid, and will bite you in the butt hardcore
I financed more because I carried over negative equity. And it took me 3 yrs at 0% financing to get positive...even then, the only reason I came out ahead when I sold my 2006 for the 2008 Expy is because of the crappy economy and the Supercharger I had installed.
Being upside down sucks...badly. Don't put yourself there because you want a new toy. Wait it out, and buy smartly.
ok, so after all this headache i got one dealer to give me a loaded fx4 for $570 a month with 2000 down for 72months and an even trade on my jeep, do i pull the trigger or try to get it even lower?
your money. post the VIN up so we can pull up it's build sheet
sounds fishy to me...but maybe it's legit. 6yrs is a long time...and what is the % rate?
as long as you are coming to the table with negative equity especially with the amount you claim to owe on the jeep you are going to get hosed. if you want a firm foot to stand on when you are making a large purchase, the less pre-existing debt you have the better. you will take a loss on the jeep if you get rid of it at this point. plus like everyone else has said negotiate you selling price not your monthly payment. you should be able to negotiate the truck down to at least 30k which will not get you below 500 a month because you still have to add the loss on your trade in. I don,t know if the tuck is a want or a need but you may want to consider a XLT, you can get most of what you can find on a Fx4 -leather, flow though console, and locking diff.
whichever way you do it, take the best one that equals the TOTAL you are going to pay. You might get (example only) 12,000 in rebates, but be financed for 100 years at 2.9%....whereas if you went with the higher payment at 5 years and 0% interest, you'll save money.
I just bought a 2009 Fusion at 0% for 433.00 a month for 60 months. I'll pay it off in 3 years regardless, but ALL of my $$$ are for principle. That's what a 26k car is. 34k financed at ZERO interest will be $567.00 a month. I don;t know a single bank, credit place, or anyone that will finance at 0% for longer than 60 months.
^you don't always save money by choosing the 0% interest option. You can actually save money by taking the cash back rebate money instead (if it's large enough), then finance for just 3 or 4 years. Provided you have good credit and get a low interest rate, you can actually pay out less money overall than taking the 0%/no rebate option.
There's online calculators out there that tell you whether it's better to take the zero APR or the cash back based on the price of the vehicle. Did you look at that when buying your Fusion?
__________________ 2009 F-150 Platinum 4x4 White Sand Tri-Coat
I have never paid more than $100 over Dealer invoice on any of my Ford Trucks and that is even at different Ford Dealers, even with Trade-ins.
My last purchased was the best I ever did, $3500 cash back, 125% trade-in value and 0% for 60 months.
Talk Price 1st, then bring in the trade-in. If the last Dealer will give you the 23799 and $100 over Dealer invoice plus the Rebates are yours, you got a good deal and the Dealer is still making profit.
Price out the Truck you are looking at (exactly) on edmunds or NADA or kelly BB, this will give you the True Dealer Cost with the MSRP as well.
If the Dealer wants to make the sell, he will do you right.
This is a Buyer's market right now, you have the power in getting a great deal right now, be willing to walk out the door and to another Dealer and be sure to tell them that as well.
__________________
07 F150 Supercab 5.4L 6.5 box 4x4 XLT.
Flowmaster 50 Series Cat-back single Exhaust.
^you don't always save money by choosing the 0% interest option. You can actually save money by taking the cash back rebate money instead (if it's large enough), then finance for just 3 or 4 years. Provided you have good credit and get a low interest rate, you can actually pay out less money overall than taking the 0%/no rebate option.
There's online calculators out there that tell you whether it's better to take the zero APR or the cash back based on the price of the vehicle. Did you look at that when buying your Fusion?
Yes, I know that...However, if he's rolling a negative equity into the deal, he's going to get hosed on the interest rate...probably around Tier 4. That's why I'd look at the TOTAL amount being financed. The 3500.00 rebate on the Fusion didn't come close to the 0% financing...However, a lot of people use the rebates as their down payment...Smart if you need a new car and don't have the cash for a down payment.
ok, so after all this headache i got one dealer to give me a loaded fx4 for $570 a month with 2000 down for 72months and an even trade on my jeep, do i pull the trigger or try to get it even lower?
Yes, I know that...However, if he's rolling a negative equity into the deal, he's going to get hosed on the interest rate...probably around Tier 4. That's why I'd look at the TOTAL amount being financed. The 3500.00 rebate on the Fusion didn't come close to the 0% financing...However, a lot of people use the rebates as their down payment...Smart if you need a new car and don't have the cash for a down payment.
Not necessarily, but I wouldn't be surprised for the OP (who seems credit-clueless). I had to roll negative equity in on my 09 thanks to the PSD (piece o' **** diesel) in my 05 F350 blowing up again, and my unwillingness to risk it blowing up again outside of warranty, and qualified tier 1.
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