I have a 94 F150, 4x4 extended cab, short bed. When I bought the truck it had a 4 inch lift kit installed. I would like to return the truck to the original ride height because getting things out of the bed of the truck is a pain. Some questions on what is needed.
I know new shocks will be required as will new (replacement) front coil springs. I can't tell if the radius arms are stock or not. There is a 4 inch block between the frame and mount for the arms. I am thinking if I just remove those blocks, the radius arms will work. As near as I can measure they are 23.5 inches long from the front of the mounting block to bolt for the axle. Is this the same length as the factory? I will also have to remove and replace the axle mounting brackets as they extend down 4 inches and the pitman arm. The torsion bar bracket has 4 inch spacers so I can just remove the spacers, rebolt and be good to go. Is there anything I am missing on the front end that would need to be done other than a wheel alignment job?
Rear axle looks like I can just remove the spacer blocks between the axle and spring to get the height back to normal.
Realize most people add height to their 4x4 trucks rather than what I am doing. However I figure someone who has added a lift kit can tell me what they had to change and I can work backwards from that.
acp come august i will have evry thing you need to restore this truck to factory ride height if you are willing to wait that long and also id be interested in buying this lift from you if you want to sell it.
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1996 FORD F-150
300 4.9 5spd manual
electric fan
REMOVED AC
AMERICAN RACING RHINO LINED RIMS
32 bfg at's all the way round.
The truck currently has 245/75/16 tires on it. By my calculations they should still fit with it back to normal height. I will see if I can figure out how to post a picture of the truck.
17Fordguy, I need to do the work soon as I have a bad shock (all the oil has blown and it rattles!). I have a coworker who may be interested in the lift. If he doesn't want it, I will let you know. Not sure what it would cost to ship as I live in Idaho.
yeah that is pretty much what you need to do you will need shorter u bolts for the rear axle when you remove the blocks i would be interested in the front springs but thats all i need i am putting a straight axle in my 94 extended cab f150
If it is a 4x4 it came factory with 2 inch rear blocks that have a funky tab on them.
It sounds like your truck has a 4 inch lift on it which would be 4 front and 2 back.
You will need stock replacement shocks, front springs, and the I beam and radius arm brackets. You may need a stock pitman arm too. The lift should have extended ones. You'll probabably have to pick that up at a salvage yard.
I can understand wanting to take the lift off. I had a small lift on mine with 32 inch tires for a while and it just handled poorly and got bad fuel mileage. It really depends on what you use the truck for.
__________________ 1995 F-150 XLT 2WD 5.0 AODE (4R70W) 3.55 LS
1965 Mustang 302 T5
PICTURES AND INFO IN GALLERY
I have started the work and am finding there will be some other stuff to do also. Looks like the u-joints in the front axles need replaced as do the lower ball joints.
Was unsure about the rear axle as there is the block with the tab sticking out as described by Texas Guy. Not sure the purpose of the tabs unless Ford offered some type of overload spring option.
Handling of the truck isn't too bad. I figure getting it a little lower may help with the aerodynamics so maybe the mpg will bump up some. If not, just getting in and out will be better. Most of the miles put on the truck are for work and hauling light loads of stuff around. I use the 4x4 mostly for snow in the winter and limited off road during hunting season.
Have the week off from work so after the morning coffee headed back out to work some more on it.
I don't know what the purpose of the tabs are either. They are factory on 4x4 though.
Are those the only blocks that are on it or did it have stacked blocks.
You dont want to take those factory blocks off or it won't sit right.
In the front are the radius arm brackets and axle pivot brackets on the I beams riveted or bolted. If its riveted and there are no other blocks in the rear then it does not have a lift on it.
__________________ 1995 F-150 XLT 2WD 5.0 AODE (4R70W) 3.55 LS
1965 Mustang 302 T5
PICTURES AND INFO IN GALLERY
The tabs are what are supposed to hit the bumpstops if you overload the truck w/ stock suspension. You will need stock
Front springs
Front TTB brackets
Stock Radius arm brackets (from your description, sounds like you have the stock rad arms.
Stock Pitman arm
Stock Rear axle blocks
NEW rear axle Ubolts
Shocks all the way around
That should be pretty much it, i dont think theres anything else left that you would need to replace.
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1989 F250 4x4, 351W, ZF S542, 4:10s, Upgraded to Dana 50 TTB front, 4" suspension lift 33" street, 38" swampers for when things get crazy!
1995 F150 4x4 300 I6, M5OD, 188000mi Daily Driver! SOLD!!!
1995 F150 4x4 302 auto, 6" suspension lift, 33" tires 67k mi NEW Daily Driver
The brackets for the radius arms were held in place for the lift by 4" spacer blocks. Simple (if you don't count rusted bolts and having to work around the exhaust system) to remove the spacer blocks and reattach the brackets to the frame.
Found an interesting and potential big problem. When the bracket that holds the end of the left side front axle was removed I found that the frame member it bolts to was cracked. (Don't know what it is called but this is the frame member that is under the oil pan that is attached to the frame rails and the brackets for the axles are attached to.) I think the extra leverage the bracket had because of it's length was causing this frame member to flex causing the metal to crack. I have reinforced it above with 5/16 plate steel to mount the bolts into so the stress is now distributed over a much larger area of the frame member.
Found I need to replace one u-joint on one of the front drive axles. It appears to have caps on it so am not sure how to remove the u-joint. Any suggestions?
Also, have a bad lower ball joint. Have followed the instructions in the Hayes book but cannot get the spindle knuckle to come off the axle. Snap rings have been removed, has been soaking with Kroil (penetrating oil). Have whacked it with a hammer (protecting the threads on the top ball joint and it still won't come lose. Any suggestions?
Pickle fork for the ball joints. they are a taper fit and one the nut is tight there pretty well seated in place. You did take the nut off the top ball joint too right? It will take a good couple smacks with a bfh on the fork but it will pop off there.
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1986 F150 4X4 351 4vHO It was a 300 I6 RIP Totaled Hit a probe with the snow plow
1988 F150 4X2 302EFI and 35's Still under 100000 orginal miles.
1989 F250 4X4 351W EFI Basket Case.
1991 F250 4X4 351W EFI More rust then metal.
Finally finished up last night (work and weather kept interfering). Of course fighting the rusted bolts sure didn't speed things up. Truck now sits at a good (for me) height and I think looks better because there is not the extra large gap between the body and tires like before.
Have to say getting the driver's side spindle knuckle off was not easy. Took a pickle fork, a puller and a heavy hammer to get it free. Hope to never have to do that again. The after market camber adjustment on that side was also broken so it couldn't be adjusted. Was able to get a used 1* camber insert from a local Les Schwab tire shop. Now I just need to get the front end aligned and should be good to go.
Curious if the drop in height will improve gas mileage or not. Figure it can't hurt.
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