I have a 82 wit a 302 c6 and it keeps running hot. There was no thermostat when I checked it, changed the water pump, and the fan is direct. There is no fan clutch, I have a flex blade fan. Also the temp sensor is new. I dont know what else it could be. The radiator isn't leaking and all the hoses are semi new. What do u guys think it could be? Any input is appreciated
PS the radiator cap is kinda old, doesnt look old; there is no white smoke coming out of my exhaust so i dont think it could be a head gasket
I have a 82 wit a 302 c6 and it keeps running hot. There was no thermostat when I checked it, changed the water pump, and the fan is direct. There is no fan clutch, I have a flex blade fan. Also the temp sensor is new. I dont know what else it could be. The radiator isn't leaking and all the hoses are semi new. What do u guys think it could be? Any input is appreciated
PS the radiator cap is kinda old, doesnt look old; there is no white smoke coming out of my exhaust so i dont think it could be a head gasket
air in the system?
I had the same exact thing happen to me with my Topaz (yes i know, its not a 302 82 f series), but none the less, after I replaced my water pump, i managed to get an air bubble, which made my car overheat within just minutes of driving.
purge the system!
__________________ -Josh Nebraska Chapter Member ... but i kept losing service in Victoria's Sectret, so I gave up.
i turned the truck on to get the water flowin and make sure all the air was out but even before i changed the water pump and installed a thermostat it had no air in the system and it still got hot. It doesnt get hot right away it takes quite a few minutes to get hot
Are you relying on a factory gauge to tell you it's hot? I would verify it with a 3rd party
gauge, factory gauges are subject to various electrical issues that cause false readings.
PS the radiator cap is kinda old, doesnt look bad tho
The cap can cause it to overheat/run hot if it's bad or weak. If you can't test, it replace it. It's cheap enough. Or the radiator could be plugged up.
Last edited by WAExplorer; 06-21-2009 at 10:07 AM.
Reason: grammar correction
The only other thing I can think of is if it has the right water pump, the ones with individual belts are different from the ones with serpentine belts (serpentines) have reverse impellers because they rotate the opposite way... just a thought.
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Robert
--1980 F-150 Custom 302, 4sp
--1980 F-100 Ranger 300, 4sp
--1988 E-350 Motorhome 460, C-6
--2006 VW Golf 2.0L, with a POS 4sp automatic...
Whidbey Island, WA
bought a new radiator cap and it's still getting hot. when i have the truck running and the cap off i can see the water flowing but i think im just gonna replace the radiator since it ain't that much.
the new water pump looked exactly like the one it had (it still had the original ford one)
ok i did a flush and replaced the radiator and the needle on the gauge is under the "A" in "NORMAL" when im driving. When I park for a couple of minutes and turn it back on the needle is is past the "H" but as soon as I start driving again it goes under the "A". Is that normal? I put a 180 degree thermostat in.
Are you relying on a factory gauge to tell you it's hot? I would verify it with a 3rd party
gauge, factory gauges are subject to various electrical issues that cause false readings.
I agree with ctubutis an aftermarket gauge would tell you exactly what temp your running at. And also get a lower hose with the spring in it.
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'77 F100 302 C4 John Deere Blitz Black and Cragar Soft 8s
well i ran it for a good while and the gauge is still under the "A" and sometimes it would go past the "H" but one night my lights started flickering and when I went to check under the hood, a cable from the alternator was loose. After tightening it and running the truck some more, the gauge wouldnt pass the "H" anymore
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