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  #1  
Old 06-20-2009, 10:27 AM
M1000 M1000 is offline
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99 ranger 3.0 engine chirping,squeeking noise?

sounds just like when a belt or idler pully goes out.so i took belt off and still chirps out of engine at idle rpms.any ideas.180000 miles,thanks
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Old 06-20-2009, 02:35 PM
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You could be grinding a bearing... idk?

Welcom to the forums.
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Old 06-20-2009, 04:27 PM
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I had a similar sound and it ended up being Cam Position Sensor, sounded just like a chirping belt.
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:29 PM
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thanks guys.after some internet searching.somebody said 98 3L Chirp Noise on startup - Car Forums and Automotive Chat take off the camshaft senser cap thing and put a little oil in there.i used wd-40 instead and the noise is gone.cool
might still need to replace someday but i was freaking out is was something major like rings or valves
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Old 06-21-2009, 12:43 AM
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My old '99 3.0L had issues with the Idler pulley bearing squealing. I went through (2) two third party idlers before I went to the Motorcraft one. Mine happened at about 135K

Apparantly the third party ones had too much side play.
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  #6  
Old 06-22-2009, 08:19 AM
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camshaft synchronizer
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Old 06-22-2009, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorman68 View Post
camshaft synchronizer
I concur. Which means that the synchro assembly should be replaced as soon as practical.

A noisy synchro can eventually fail completely, leading to a stripped synchro gear, which means the oil pump driveshaft will stop spinning too, inasmuch as the pump driveshaft interfaces with the gear. This of course causes the pump to stop pumping, starving the engine of oil. These types of catastrophic failures can and do occur.
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:25 PM
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Exclamation Very common problem with the 3.0.

Due to a design flaw, the 3.0 cam synchronizer top
bushing gets oil starved, and that's what causes the
squeaking.
If the synchro's not replaced, the bushing will either
bind up the shaft and strip the gears, or the bushing will
grind itself up and create enough play to destroy the
vane and sensor.

It's not a question of 'if' your 3.0 will have a cam synchro
to fail, but 'when'.
Mine started squeaking with only 55K miles on it......
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  #9  
Old 07-08-2009, 02:34 AM
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Do you guys think it would be good preventative maintenance to oil it from time to time? I haven't looked, is it a pain to get to? I'm kind of planning on keeping my truck until the end of time, so I'm willing to do things to keep it healthy for a good long time.
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Old 07-18-2009, 11:26 PM
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Lightbulb

Oiling the bushing is indeed a good idea.
You can remove the sensor by unscrewing the two
hold-down screws (5.5mm), then lifting up on the
sensor. Then drip a few drops of oil into the 'uphill'
side of the synchro, so it will drain down toward
the shaft and bushing.

A small drinking straw works good to apply the oil,
by filling the straw end with oil and holding/releasing
suction with your thumb on the other end.
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  #11  
Old 07-18-2009, 11:45 PM
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Cam positioner/Synchronizer

Just going through same exact scenario with my 02 Ranger 3.0L V6!Got my Bro,to listen(ACE MECH.)Got it ,right off as soon as hood opened:He said:Camshaft Synchronizer assembly.Rockautoparts.com $38!Beats EVERYBODY!BUT,you gotta make sure to get it to TDC on Crank pulley,etc. See previous posts search Camshaft Synchronizer assembly replace.YOU gave me an idea tho,I'm gonna oil mine too!I know I gotta replace it.Got the Part in truck too.The "chirp" finally went away,NO Check Engine light either.I know that don't mean its OK.I just got some Health issues right now.I'm gonna Oil mine too ,even tho noise went away.Buying time is my game.Procrastinator is my name!
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  #12  
Old 07-30-2009, 02:05 AM
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Agreed, guys, It's the syncro assembly and yes it does get oil starved.
I had the same problem and it's an easy fix. Take off the hood and make sure you can see straight down onto the assembly. Take off the sensor.
the top of the syncro assembly looks like a cup with 2 to 3 small nothches and one big notch that the lobe passes for the sensor. Mark the position of one of the small notches on the sycro to the block. Turn the crank until the the lobe lines up with the big notch at the top of the syncro.
(When the engine runs the lobe spins and when it passes the big notch the sensor picks it up.) Take off the one bolt that holds down the assembly and remove slowly. Reinstall the new one in the same position and make sure its all the way in and sitting flat on the block. It has to be in the exact same position. This may take a few tries.
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Old 07-30-2009, 07:15 AM
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Since the Cam/synch assembly "tie" in with the oil pump,could this cause a "Twitching Oil pressure gauge needle"? Since my original post i.e."Cam Positioner noise"&Synch replacement",I wondered about this.When I drive Long distances,say 50-100 miles ,when I'm at idle after a "Cruise" ,the Oil needle "Twitches ,something "Fierce"ONLY at Idle.Upon Revving slightly,the "twitch" disappears,until idling!I'll re-post or start a new one ,as I've got the Part(Sending unit) awaiting replacement.Thanks
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Old 08-01-2009, 02:33 AM
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That"s what I thought, but I found out the two weren't related. The oil pressuure switch is an easy fix. Replace that and the needle will stop jumping.
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Old 08-01-2009, 04:07 AM
rangerte rangerte is offline
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Thanks Ticker,I wasn't sure about that!Now I believe I can move on and not worry about this gauge thing! I still gotta get to my CamSync.! My Bros coming up soon,asnd is THE man for this.He said he could change my Camsync in half hour or so.So thanks to all ,and to all a good night!
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Old 08-01-2009, 04:07 AM
 
 
 
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