Evaporator core from Junkyard? - Page 3

Rusty_S · #31 (**permalink**) 07-15-2009, 10:26 AM

A general rule of thumb I was shown was if your system is open for more than 1 hour get a new drier/accumultor cause the dessicant will be too saturated with moisture. 1 hour or less it should be fine and pulling a vacuum on the system for an hour or two should remove most if not all the moisture. I did that with mine and pulled 30 in of vacuum for 1 hour and 30 mins and it wasnt till the last 30 mins that there was moisture no longer being pulled out of the system.

lsrx101 · #32 (**permalink**) 07-15-2009, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomw

Ok, I will add a thought, not a fact. If the parts are left open to the air, and are made of aluminum, I don't see the problem in using them. Particularly if they have not been left exposed to rain and such. Aluminum parts have a coating of aluminum oxide almost from the instant they are made, and they are done corroding unless chemicals are added.
I would not use an accumulator(or receiver/dryer) that had been left open, as the packet of dessicant would likely be totally loaded with H2O. If you have no dollars, you could in theory cook the dessicant in an oven to boil off the water... but who knows how much is left.
IMO.
tom

I've heard comments both ways on aluminum and seen examples of both. I don't know the chemistry involved.
I have a 6"x6" block of aluminum that I've had for years that gets used in my garage whenever it will come in handy. Aside from some battle scars, it's not corroded.
On the other hand, I've seen lots of badly corroded aluminum "things". In AC systems, I can't count the number of evaporators and condensers that were badly corroded, both internally and externally. It's common for the corrosion to start inside and work it's way outward. The parts often look like new on the outside.

As for the desiccant, heating it won't work. Once it absorbs the moisture, the moisture can't be removed by any easy means. It's not like silica gel dessicants that can be heated to dry them.

tomw · #33 (**permalink**) 07-15-2009, 01:07 PM

Isrx101... now that I think about it, acid can etch away on the inside, and you'd never know unless you found out the hard way. Look perfect on the outside, but ready to blow out at the least application of pressure. Not worth the headache and wasted time.
However, if you know the system the part came out of, and had just put it on the shelf until ready for installation, I'd have no problem with an open evaporator or condenser. Out of the rain, clean, from a good system, no mice or spiders living inside, etc. I'd use that part...
tom

lsrx101 · #34 (**permalink**) 07-15-2009, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomw

Isrx101... now that I think about it, acid can etch away on the inside, and you'd never know unless you found out the hard way. Look perfect on the outside, but ready to blow out at the least application of pressure. Not worth the headache and wasted time.
However, if you know the system the part came out of, and had just put it on the shelf until ready for installation, I'd have no problem with an open evaporator or condenser. Out of the rain, clean, from a good system, no mice or spiders living inside, etc. I'd use that part...
tom

Absolutely! Often a shot of compressed air will tell you if it's corroded internally or not.

jsutton · #35 (**permalink**) 07-15-2009, 02:17 PM

Well nothing at all came out of the one I picked up at the JY when I hit it with the air through it. Like I said too, when I put the laquer thinner through it, it came out yellowish not rust colored (which I know aluminum wouldn't rust) or anything. So hopefully it's not messed up inside and I find out the hard way!

lsrx101 · #36 (**permalink**) 07-16-2009, 04:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsutton

Well nothing at all came out of the one I picked up at the JY when I hit it with the air through it. Like I said too, when I put the laquer thinner through it, it came out yellowish not rust colored (which I know aluminum wouldn't rust) or anything. So hopefully it's not messed up inside and I find out the hard way!

Nope, your evaporator is fine. That yellowish oil was just mineral oil discolored from age. That's what you "want" to see in an old part open to air.
Dust, milky white oil or black oil are signs problems. You're in good shape.

tomw · #37 (**permalink**) 07-22-2009, 10:17 AM

Just saw this article on flushing a compressor...
http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...threadid=12050

Sounds like a good procedure to me. Even mentions York draining.
tom

lsrx101 · #38 (**permalink**) 07-22-2009, 10:37 AM

Yeah. Bohica is a regular on the AC forum. He's a pretty smart guy and knows his stuff.

tomw · #39 (**permalink**) 07-22-2009, 04:15 PM

I used to frequently go to aircondition.com and ackits.com forums and bohica was a regular there... I really didn't notice the author at the time.
tom

jsutton · #40 (**permalink**) 08-08-2009, 09:04 PM

I still don't know if my york compressor works or not. So I went to the JY this morning looking at compressors, like the one in the linked article the FS6. I know I can use one of these because a guy up the 73-79 section put one in his truck. I found a lot of them, some had v-belt pulleys and some had serptine belt pulleys.
I have the question of, are these two clutches interchangable? Is it possible to get an FS6 compressor with a serpentine pulley and clutch and take that off and put on a v-belt pulley and clutch?
I found a lot that still had a charge.

Thanks.

lsrx101 · #41 (**permalink**) 08-08-2009, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsutton

I still don't know if my york compressor works or not. So I went to the JY this morning looking at compressors, like the one in the linked article the FS6. I know I can use one of these because a guy up the 73-79 section put one in his truck. I found a lot of them, some had v-belt pulleys and some had serptine belt pulleys.
I have the question of, are these two clutches interchangable? Is it possible to get an FS6 compressor with a serpentine pulley and clutch and take that off and put on a v-belt pulley and clutch?
I found a lot that still had a charge.

Thanks.

I can't say I've ever seen an FS6 with a V belt pulley. If you find one with a v belt pulley in questionable condition, you certainly could swap the clutch and pulley to a known good compressor that currently has a serp. belt pulley. A better bet is to find an application that uses an FS6 and V belt then order a new clutch kit for it.
With that said:
Used compressors are often a disappointment. The best bet would be to find what application uses a v belt and buy a good reman compressor. Yea it costs more, but it's usually money well spent. Used compressors just aren't a good idea generally.

jsutton · #42 (**permalink**) 08-09-2009, 05:30 PM

Thanks, yea early 80's Bronco's, F-series, and E-series used the 5 ear FS6 with a V-belt. Also some rangers used them. I have been researching so much (maybe too much). LOL I will most likely buy a new (reman) one but I just wanted to check, since I found some with serpentine pulley set up still holding a charge.

One thing I don't understand is that a compressor with out a clutch is usually only about $10-15 cheaper than one with a clutch, but if you try to buy just a clutch alone it cost almost $80.

Thanks.

jsutton · #43 (**permalink**) 08-10-2009, 08:54 PM

Ok back to my York compressor. This evening I pulled the clutch off to look at the seal and I didn't see any signs of leakage. Should I go ahead and replace it since I have it down to there? I was going to pull the head off to look inside like was suggested earlier in the thread, but the four weird headed bolts that are on either side of the fittings wouldn't come out. I was afraid I was going to strip them. What kind of wrench or socket do I need to get them out, or should I even worry about pulling the head to put new gaskets in there?

Sorry to jump around so much on a thread I started about getting an evaporator, but I don't want to have a bunch of different threads going.

Thanks,

jsutton · #44 (**permalink**) 08-12-2009, 09:39 AM

I have decided I'm way over thinking this. I am just going to replace that shaft seal and use my York compressor. If it doesn't work or quits then I'll think about other options, but as of now I'm sticking with my old compressor. At least the remaining pieces I won't have any questions about, because they will be new. LOL

Thanks

85lebaront2 · #45 (**permalink**) 08-12-2009, 10:12 AM

[quote=lsrx101;7809135]I can't say I've ever seen an FS6 with a V belt pulley. If you find one with a v belt pulley in questionable condition, you certainly could swap the clutch and pulley to a known good compressor that currently has a serp. belt pulley. A better bet is to find an application that uses an FS6 and V belt then order a new clutch kit for it.
quote]

If you want to see an FS6 with a V belt, try looking at anything up through 86. Both my F350 with a 460 and my son's (Archion) F150 have V belt FS6 compressors, the FS10 is the serpantine one you may be thinking of.

The evaporator on these pre 1980 trucks are made of copper tubing with steel and aluminum attached. I had a 77 for a number of years until my other son bought it If you are still looking for a few parts, PM me, I have a good source.