Evaporator core from Junkyard? - Page 2

jsutton · #16 (**permalink**) 07-01-2009, 09:30 AM

Ok I took the valves off my compressor and the attachments look like the one circled in the pic below. So I have O-ring type instead of Rotalock. I'm planing on ordering those R134a vavles, they are only $26 for the set.

lsrx101 · #17 (**permalink**) 07-01-2009, 10:22 AM

That's the first time I've seen those fittings . Where did you find them?

jsutton · #18 (**permalink**) 07-01-2009, 10:26 AM

I had never seen them either. Over on the other site bucks77 is redoing his A/C compressor and he posted a pic, so I asked him where he got them from and he gave me this link.

http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ac/...ittings-42.php

jsutton · #19 (**permalink**) 07-06-2009, 09:29 AM

Well I think I got a helluva deal!! I went and got the evaporator from the JY and I was expecting to pay $8 bucks for it, but I got the evaporator and the grommet for the core support for $5!!
I got it home, hit it with some air through it and nothing came out of it, no rust no particles or anything. Then I do the water test I filled up the ice chest with water and dropped it in covered the low side fitting with my hand and used my air compressor fitting with the rubber tip and pumped some air in it and held it for a little while. No bubbles came from anywhere. I'm hoping it's good to go. I read in another post about flushing it with some lacquer thinner, so I'm going to do that and then tape up the fittings till I get my other parts.

jsutton · #20 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsrx101

The shaft seal in your old York compressor is probably bad after all this time on the shelf. The crankcase is also full of (R12) mineral oil. Post back when you get to that point and we'll figure out what to do. Be aware that you might have to replace the compressor with a reman unit. A good quality reman York is about $300-350. (the cheaper remans from the "chain stores" are of very questionable quality) Budget for that much and then be pleasantly surprised if the old one can be reused or resealed.

Ok, I flushed the evaporator and the first couple of times the lacquer thinner came out yellowish and kinda sticky, but after a couple of times it didn't anymore. After flushing it I kept blowing air through it for a while with the compressor on 100 PSI. Then I taped up the ends and set it on the shelf.

I know I'm buying a new condenser, drier, expansion valve, hoses and fittings so I don't have any questions on that stuff.

Now, I think I'm to the point of testing the compressor. I've mentioned I already connected the clutch to 12 volts and it seems to lock up like it's supposed to. So what do I need to do to flush out the compressor and test it? I looked at the ackits.com forum and saw how he tested and flushed the sanden compressor, is that pretty much what I need to do also? If mine is crap and I have to buy another one, I think I'm going to switch to the sanden compressor with the adapter bracket.

Thanks,

lsrx101 · #21 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 03:32 PM

If you can find (rent) the right tool, pull the clutch plate and look for oil around the compressor shaft. More than just a trace means the seal is probably leaking. You can replace the seal if necessary. I can't say I've seen many of them leak, though. (When I mentioned the seal earlier, I was thinking of a different compressor).
If you hold your fingers over the ports and turn the clutch, you should feel pressure on one and suction on the other. That's about as far as you can go as far as testing.

The compressor has a crankcase, much like a small engine or air compressor. There should be a plug on the side. Just pull the plug and drain the oil while turning the clutch.
Fill it with about 6-8 ounces of the oil you plan to use, reinstall the plug and roll the compressor around in your hands and turn the clutch about 10 times.
Drain and repeat. Drain thoroughly and fill the crankcase with 10oz of oil.

That Sanden compressor is a good replacement if you need to go in that direction. It doesn't have quite the displacement as the old York, but it's close.

BTW, Excellent deal on the parts! I forgot to reply to that post. It sounds like the evaporator is fine. The sticky yellow stuff was probably just old oil.

tomw · #22 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 03:32 PM

There is a bolt on the top and/or bottom of the York that is a drain plug. It is in the center of one surface, not one of the mount or head bolts. If you remove it you can drain the sump oil out, and flush your compressor. Do that, and install some ester, and cycle the compressor over by hand. Any leftover mineral oil is not miscible with the R143, so will get pushed along by the vapor until it doesn't feel like moving any more, and it will drool down to a low point. Or so I have heard. It is oil, so won't mess up anything -- it's been in there for years... The only thing it does is reduce the volume of the system by its volume. Which would be like a max of 1/2 cup or so.
You could also remove the head and inspect the bore and reed valves, and clean the reed valves. I am not so good on the terminology, so forgive any mis-naming. Nothing earth-shattering involved.
tom

Ignore this post and read the one above it which posted as I typed. My suggestions and numbers are pulled out of thin air, but close enough for government work... the above look more official. Or is it ifficial???
t

lsrx101 · #23 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 03:37 PM

I dunno Tom. I thought your post was pretty good myself.

jsutton · #24 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 03:52 PM

Thanks guys for the quick responses. I know the bolts ya'll are talking about, it does still have oil in it. I'll drain it and change it twice like you mentioned. I'll pull the clutch when I get a chance too, to inspect under there.

I can feel it moving air when I plug the end of the hose with my thumb and spin the clutch by hand. I didn't notice much suction though on the other side?? Would be okay to spin it with a drill to get it moving a little faster and feel then?

tomw · #25 (**permalink**) 07-14-2009, 09:17 AM

As long as you don't plan on spinning it for very long, there should be no problem. I'd be surprised if any drill I own would turn one over against any kind of load, but you're welcome to try. I am making the assumption that there is some mineral oil in the compressor - you haven't drained it out and it has not all leaked out under the hood...
If the reed valves work and the piston seals well against the cylinder wall, you will get suction and pressure. The faster you spin, the more you would get of each. If you compare the diameter of the clutched pulley with that of the pulley on the nose of the crankshaft, you would get an idea of the rpm range the compressor is spozta operate in. If the compressor pulley is larger than the crank, it will turn slower, and vice versa. If the same, your compressor will run in the range of engine rpm, from idle up to cruise.
If you went with the lower displacement compressor, you would then have to decrease the pulley diameter to maintain the same 'volume' of compressed gas that the York produces. Just for thought..
tom
tom

jsutton · #26 (**permalink**) 07-14-2009, 10:18 AM

It does have a big pulley on it. You can see it in the pics on page one.

It had never leaked any oil before I took it off the truck a few years ago. I took the bolts out to drain it and the oil that came out looked like melted caramel, and was about the consistency of syrup??

Rusty_S · #27 (**permalink**) 07-14-2009, 10:42 AM

On the oil pag is used in R134a systems. Mineral is used with R12. Now against the common misconception you do not have to drain 100% mineral oil out. The mineral oil will not mix with the Pag oil so the mineral oil will coat the inside of the hoses (if your keeping the old R12 hoses) and it will help to prevent the smaller R134a particle from seeping through the hose itself. I have one i converted and I didnt even drain the mineral oil out I just vacummed all I could out and that was back in 2006 and I have yet to had to service my system with pag oil added to it. I have also only had to add refrigerant to it probably twice since 2006 but i check it every season.

So just alittle information for ya and on the not having to get all mineral oil out that came from a AC certified tech that has been teaching ac repairs as a ase tech at the classes i took for about 20 years and has worked bout 30 years in the field.

Another thing Scotty Tillman told me after I asked a simmilar question to you never use a ac component that has been open for any extended periods of time. Corrision can thin out the evaporator/condenser and the evaporator runs up to 330 PSI in some cases. I asked cause my 63 has been opened bout 20 years but I blew it clean and it was not blocked but he said the corrision can thin the tubes out so I figure I would tell you that also to be careful on it cause it might blow and wouldnt want to be around with no eye protection if that happens

lsrx101 · #28 (**permalink**) 07-14-2009, 03:29 PM

Rusty, Much of your info is on the mark, but some of it is just plain bad information and I must respectfully disagree.

"On the oil pag is used in R134a systems. Mineral is used with R12. Now against the common misconception you do not have to drain 100% mineral oil out".

PAG oil is used on NEW R134a systems. The standard for converted systems is Polyol Ester oil, due to possible reactions with residual R12 and PAG.
Removing the old oil is the accepted "best practice". After conversion the old oil is considered a contaminant that doesn't belong in the system. There is also no way to tell if any additives or other stuff has been added to the system during its lifetime. Flushing and removing the oil and contaminants brings the system to a "known state".

The mineral oil will not mix with the Pag oil so the mineral oil will coat the inside of the hoses (if your keeping the old R12 hoses) and it will help to prevent the smaller R134a particle from seeping through the hose itself.

Yes, mineral will not mix with PAG, nor is it miscible with R134a. It does NOT coat the inside of the hoses and help then seal. It will migrate to low points in the system and lay there. It can occasionally travel through the system in "blobs" if disturbed.
Excess ambient leakage through the non-barrier hoses is, in theory, an issue because the R134a molecule is smaller than the R12 molecule. This theory has been disproven in practice since it was brought up in the early 1990s. The ambient leakage with R134a was found to be no more than it was with R12. Barrier hose is mandated for all R134a systems to prevent ANY ambient leakage.

I have one i converted and I didnt even drain the mineral oil out I just vacummed all I could out and that was back in 2006 and I have yet to had to service my system with pag oil added to it. I have also only had to add refrigerant to it probably twice since 2006 but i check it every season.

I believe that your system worked fine with the old oil left in place, it often does. The problem is with the 70% of systems that it causes issues. It "can" work, but is very likely to cause problems due to contamination or slugging if a glob of oil works its way back to the compressor. There are too many "maybes" for this to be recommended.

So just alittle information for ya and on the not having to get all mineral oil out that came from a AC certified tech that has been teaching ac repairs as a ase tech at the classes i took for about 20 years and has worked bout 30 years in the field.

ASE certification doesn't necessarily mean he knew what he was talking about. The "coats the inside of the hoses and helps them seal better" remark makes me seriously doubt his credibility. This is in no way a jab at you whatsoever.

Another thing Scotty Tillman told me after I asked a simmilar question to you never use a ac component that has been open for any extended periods of time. Corrision can thin out the evaporator/condenser and the evaporator runs up to 330 PSI in some cases. I asked cause my 63 has been opened bout 20 years but I blew it clean and it was not blocked but he said the corrision can thin the tubes out so I figure I would tell you that also to be careful on it cause it might blow and wouldnt want to be around with no eye protection if that happens.

100% correct! Parts can look like new on the outside and be badly corroded inside.

Rusty_S · #29 (**permalink**) 07-14-2009, 07:19 PM

No problem Thats just what I was told and i just tended to belive it. I used pag oil on all conversions and I dont recall ever being told at the tech classes to use anything other than pag regardless if you converted or not. Nor were we told to flush the system out cause youll never get 100% all the oil out unless you replace all parts.

tomw · #30 (**permalink**) 07-15-2009, 09:49 AM

Ok, I will add a thought, not a fact. If the parts are left open to the air, and are made of aluminum, I don't see the problem in using them. Particularly if they have not been left exposed to rain and such. Aluminum parts have a coating of aluminum oxide almost from the instant they are made, and they are done corroding unless chemicals are added.
I would not use an accumulator(or receiver/dryer) that had been left open, as the packet of dessicant would likely be totally loaded with H2O. If you have no dollars, you could in theory cook the dessicant in an oven to boil off the water... but who knows how much is left.
IMO.
tom