My pistons. Oil rings've bitten the dust. But compression rings look well. I tried to put them to cylinder to see what is the clearance.... about 1.5-2 mm... I gonna change them.
what do you think Gentelmen. No notisable eleptic wear, but surface is like polished in some places. To mashine engine block ore not? I wanna just change rings.
Heads are dirty! really. this engine loved to burn oil!
Well, if someone have a good manual for 3.0, I'd like to read it!
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And makes us rather bear those ills we have
Than fly to others that we know not of?
i would check for out of round, more than 0.010" around or top to bottom and I would diamond bore and micro deburr.
see last link April tech article, near middle
is the cylinder wear the same pattern and measurements on all 6?
check the oil cooling lube spray holes in rod ends
were any of the rings tight in their grooves and not free to move?
sure lots of oil burn carbon on combustion chamber. surprised it even ran well.
doesn't look like much top of stroke cylinder wall wear at top ring stop?
do the rings have the correct tension for Ford 3L? forged pistons have more cyl. wall clearance than hypereutectic cast pistons thus can have more oil consumption and blowby unless spring tension is correct.
ring end gap measured new?
iron, chromed or moly rings?
like the looks of the red silicone/graphite seal around the water jacket ports. what brand of head gaskets?
nice clean water coolant jackets, good quality antifreeze and clean water.
you going to mill the heads and push the compression ratio up to 11:1 and run 100% ethanol? lots more safe horsepower.
There is a method to check cylinder taper with a spare ring. You measure the ring gap at the top. middle and bottom of the stroke area.
You may as well have the cylinders pressure tested to see if you need a valve job while they are off. At a minimum, replace the valve seals.
Rings are not broken. Oil rings stuck in pistons. and they are too soft. MAy be overheating issues.
And what do you think about polished places in cilinders?
BTW, I will get US made rings...... they are cheapper now )))
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And makes us rather bear those ills we have
Than fly to others that we know not of?
Pablo, since you have it taken apart that far, you might as well do everything and take no shortcuts. Do it right, and you won't have to do it over. And good luck!
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Dave Mac
94 XLT Long 251 K, and back in the workshop
92 XL Short 161 K still driving while I work on the other one
89 Tempo 157 K and still haven't worked this one out
Polished spots on the cylinder walls indicate the engine was never broken in properly. If the engine was, the entire cylinder would be evenly polished.
When you get the cylindered re-honed and the new rings installed and everything put back together, run the engine long enough to warm the oil, then drive it like you stole it for about half an hour. Try to minimize stops, and try to alternate between engine braking and hard acceleration. After half an hour of this, change the oil, then drive like you normally would. this first rough use ensures the rings fully expand and fully contact the hone pattern before the pattern polishes off. This will get you a longer lasting engine with a higher power output.
ouh, parts I need....: Bearing shells (All), rings kit, gasket and seal kit.......... People say that it may cost up to $350-500 with shipping from the USA... fortunatly I dont pay for labour.................. (((
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And makes us rather bear those ills we have
Than fly to others that we know not of?
Are you replacing the cam/lifters? If not, you need to keep the lifters in the same bores they came out of (on the same lobes they were riding on). If yes, you also need to follow the proper cam break-in. My engine builder told me to run the engine at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes just as soon as I got it started. Before starting, it would be a good idea to prime the oil pump with a drill. Of course, I could do this on a small block Ford v8, where the distributor is on the front. I don't know how you would do this with a Vulan mounted in the van.
ouh, parts I need....: Bearing shells (All), rings kit, gasket and seal kit.......... People say that it may cost up to $350-500 with shipping from the USA... fortunatly I dont pay for labour.................. (((
Pablo,
It it were mine, I'd sure spend the extra few bucks and do it all and do it right. I am about to do that with my 94 extended van, and I'd rather spend a few bucks extra to have a van that I can drive well into my retirement than to save a few bucks and have to do it all over. 245,000 miles and it is showing signs of age. By this time next year, it will be like new. Good luck!
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Dave Mac
94 XLT Long 251 K, and back in the workshop
92 XL Short 161 K still driving while I work on the other one
89 Tempo 157 K and still haven't worked this one out
valve lifters were not removed from bores. I will change rings, gaskets and seals.
this engine worked well for more then 10 years, and I think it will run not less then 100 k more..... I see no reason to rebuild this engine twice. Next time I will do wngine swap.
What engine to put in? I think after this global depression we will see. Gas ore diesel?? ore electric one. who knows?
__________________
_____________________________________
And makes us rather bear those ills we have
Than fly to others that we know not of?
Are you replacing the cam/lifters? If not, you need to keep the lifters in the same bores they came out of (on the same lobes they were riding on). If yes, you also need to follow the proper cam break-in. My engine builder told me to run the engine at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes just as soon as I got it started. Before starting, it would be a good idea to prime the oil pump with a drill. Of course, I could do this on a small block Ford v8, where the distributor is on the front. I don't know how you would do this with a Vulan mounted in the van.
Only problem with just running it at 2000 RPM is that there is no load on the engine. No load means low cylinder pressure. Low pressure means the rings don't expand. No expansion means the rings won't seat properly and the engine fails to break in correctly. 2000 RPM is fine, but the engine must be loaded. It is not possible to keep them loaded at a constant speed on the road, so you have to keep changing speed, and alternating between acceleration and deceleration. The deceleration can help draw away small metal particles. If you took the engine out and put it on a dyno, that would be a good way to break it in. If you took it to a race track, that would work too.
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