I have a '75 F-250 with a 390. I'm changing it to a 300, out of a '78. I want to keep the radiator out of the 390. However, the water inlet to the pump is on the opposite side.
I know I can take it to shop and have a different bottom put on, or do some 'plumbing' with copper to get me there. But I saw a photo of a 300 with the inlet on the drivers side. Does anyone know what year that is? And would such a pump bolt up to my block?
And yeah, I know, a lot of trouble to save a little $. But save where I can!
I'm a little confused when you are talking about inlets. Are talking about the radiator or the inlet back into the block of the motor? The radiator from the 390 would probably too much, isn't it as 4 core radiator? I think it would over cool the motor.
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1977 Ford F100 300 six 4 speed 2wd
1982 F100 300 six 4 speed O/D 2wd
The thermostat controls the temperature. Extra radiator capacity doesn't hurt a thing and may be desireable in hot weather especially when towing, etc.
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1983 F150 300 I6, Comp Cam 260h and lifter kit, Port/Polished head, Offy DP Manifold, Holley 4160/1848-1 465 cfm, EFI Exhaust manifolds, Walker Y Pipe to 3-Way Cat, generic Turbo Muffler, Recurved DSII, Mallory HyFire 6a & ACCEL Super Stock Coil, Taylor Spiro Pro Wires, EFI plugs.
seems to me, I saw the water pump on a stationary 300 in a crane, comeing out on the left. I don't know how to look up commercial power plants, or marine use, but that may be the route you have to take
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Unless they're a little longer, I was hearing that a 4 core radiator would start butting up against the fan of a 300.
Is the radiator for the pre-80 300 different? My inlet (the one that goes to the block, not the fill hole), IS on the drivers side.
The Super Cooling radiator was not offered for I-6's or 302's.
But, does the OP have one of these radiators in his 390 truck...or not?
As I stated above in post #4, this radiator was optional at extra cost, so many of these trucks do not have it.
I also stated in post #4 that the 1980 and later radiators are different because the entire truck is different, sharing no sheet metal with 1973/79's which includes the radiator supports.
So...a radiator from one of these 1980 and later trucks may not bolt up to a 1973/79 radiator support.
The simple solution is...just take the 390 radiator to a radiator shop and have the inlets switched around to accomodate the 300 engine..
__________________ Bill / Retired Ford Partsman 1962-1997 / Ford Historian / SoCal Chapter Member.
Part Number Research: Trucks: 1928/2002 / Cars: 1928/1979
1963 Galaxie 500XL / 1965 F100 Styleside Pickup ~ Original Owner / 2008 Fusion S / 2008 Edge SEL
You said the mounting brackets were different, not the side of the inlet, which was my point and question.
Secondly, I was also stating that if he DID have a four core radiator, which is still up in the air, I simply heard that radiators that thick may interfere with the 300s fan.
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4bbl Holley 390 w/ Offenhauser DP intake. 4 speed Manual w/OD. K&N air filter, EFI manifolds, 2.5" exhaust.
3.00 rear end and 2000 RPMs @ 80mph!
You said the mounting brackets were different, not the side of the inlet, which was my point and question.
Secondly, I was also stating that if he DID have a four core radiator, which is still up in the air, I simply heard that radiators that thick may interfere with the 300s fan.
The I-6's were not available with the Super Cooling radiator, so what you say about the core's thickness...may be the reason why.
1965/79 F100/350 240/300 radiators are essentially the same, the inlets are in the same location. 1980 and later, they may not be the same.
I'm not sure when Ford switched the inlets location, but it was not before 1980.
__________________ Bill / Retired Ford Partsman 1962-1997 / Ford Historian / SoCal Chapter Member.
Part Number Research: Trucks: 1928/2002 / Cars: 1928/1979
1963 Galaxie 500XL / 1965 F100 Styleside Pickup ~ Original Owner / 2008 Fusion S / 2008 Edge SEL
I'm still not sure exactly which side you are looking for the water pump to face, but
the water pump hose connection on my 1990 F150 with a 300 i6 faces the passenger side and connects to the bottom of the radiator on that side.
Maybe I can clear some things up. I have the over-size radiator in my truck, with the high tank on top. It is huge, with the block (390) and radiator, I hold 5 gallons of coolant. But it is NOT a four core.
I live in California, and periodically travel into Baja FULLY loaded with an aluminum boat on top, right through the blistering desert, or tow a trailor into Oregon, so I want the extra capacity radiator. I was hoping to keep my radiator, but the bottom hose fitting is on the opposite side from where I need it with the 300. If I can't 'plumb' it with copper safely (vibration rubbing considered) then thanks, I will take it to the shop and have them swap the bottom for one with the hose on the correct side.
Yes, this radiator out of the 390 is mounted differently. The top leans in toward the engine more than the 300 rad. I have. I have measured from rear of block to the rad., and it is going to be tight, with the fan about one inch from the rad. If I can't use the 390 rad. with a belt driven fan, then I'll most likely switch over to an electric fan.
One other point: If I went with the 300 rad., the opening in my grill/cross member is much wider than the rad. I would have to put some sort of sheet metal on either side, or change the cross member completely, and I really don't want to do with with my new paint job.
One other point: If I went with the 300 rad., the opening in my grill/cross member is much wider than the rad. I would have to put some sort of sheet metal on either side, or change the cross member completely, and I really don't want to do with with my new paint job.
Are you talking about on the passenger side or the driver's side? If you're talking about the passenger side, I know on my '81, there is a plate that goes in there with an opening to the hose that goes to the air cleaner. You might be able to find one of those out of an pre-80 and put it back in place, might even just bolt right up.
If you're talking about the driver's side, you can get the A/C or non-A/C radiator. Mine was originally non-A/C and when I replaced it, I got the A/C version. It was 6 inches wider, allowing for more cooling, and taking up more grille space.
Just ideas.
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4bbl Holley 390 w/ Offenhauser DP intake. 4 speed Manual w/OD. K&N air filter, EFI manifolds, 2.5" exhaust.
3.00 rear end and 2000 RPMs @ 80mph!
I found out something that might help someone here: As I've stated before, I want to keep the radiator from my 390. It is huge and I paid about $300 for it. Anyway, I was considering just using copper pipe fittings and making it work, changing the hose diameter with stepdowns, and running the pipe to the opposite side of the rad.
But heck, I called the rad. shop, and they only want $50 to swap out the bottom of the rad., change the fitting size, and put the outlet on the side I need it to be on. For $50 bucks I'm laughing!!
I know the thermostat controls the engine coolant temperture, but will such a large rad. make long stretches of too cool running for that engine? But the engine will be using less of it each time the thermostat opens--less than a v8. That means more is staying longer in the rad, getting cooler than with a v8.
I live in S. California, and in the winter it might get down to 60 in the day time. I have been known to tow a trailor over the mountains into Oregon, and to travel the deserts of Baja. The idea of a LARGE rad. I find comforting.
I over sized the rad in my 89, never noticed a difference in heating up, your heatercore pulls off the engine, got heat same as before. did notice when sitting in traffic with the a/c on, on a scorcher of a day, the truck does not overheat any more. pulling the 2 horse trailer up the mountain, the temp guage still goes up a little more, but not as bad as it used to
__________________ Charlie Join the Maryland Chapter click HERE
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