Those studs are so small prolly 1/2 to the cooling jacket.
I got em in with no green stuff... Are you using Horror Freight taps. Aluminum is pretty soft stuff.
I used to sell these to the Ford Rouge Plant Best when I was the rep. These are the best all around w 135 deg. points. You can get individual size or the 29 pc. std. set. I need a left hand 190 AL set thanks for reminding me.
I gave them a lifetime guarantee to the Ford Guy's had to replace 1 - 2 per month every time I came back for another orderThose guy's loved the lifetime warranty.
The taps are also some of the best around, never broke one.
I did not jack it up, might help tho kind tight in there. You will need a right angle drill, or 90 deg. die grinder with a steady hand do not rush it.
Thanks for the suggestion on a better quality bit & Tap set. Will look into it for the future. Right now, slowly concentrating on chewing out the center of the broken tap with Carbide bits, takes patience and walk away time.
Today, had to walk away after Dremel off/on switch bit the dust, went over an borrowed my sons, so back to the battle tomorrow, very close to the end of the tap, just one full tooth set hanging on, then the step or ground down nose end taps, then it should fall out.
Then to try to tap the treads to clean it out, wish me luck, then it's reassembly time, can't wait. Will keep y'all posted, it's really been a journey!
Dhope!; sorry I thought your reply was to me... Anywho I'm all up and in it now and can I just say weeeeeeee!!!!???
So here is where I'm at after 3 hours... Got the wheel, ineer skirt and shock / mount off on the passenger side and found 4 broken bolts one (that I can see) flush to the head. I hustled on off to Autozone and got me a couple cans of pb and some metric impact sockets. Also wandered by Harbor freight for some cheap just in case tools...
Total $$$ spent so far $22.00 new gaskets and bolts, $49.00 Harbor Freight for 6 ton jack stands and other misc. pry tools and $25.00 at Autozone for PB and socket set.
As of now I have 5 of 6 bolts out (4 are previously broken off) and one left to go on the passenger side. I have found that I'm using a combo of 1/2", 7/16, 11mm and 12mm sockets with 1/2" breaker bar and 3/8" ratchet and breaker bar. I do not know if I'm just catching some luck today or if all those Delta Sonic superkiss car washes with chassis baths are paying off, but all 5 bolts I've extracted came out without a hitch nut & bolt in one piece! Best I count my luck stars and wait to profess my luck after I get the broken ones extracted!
I am certainly taking my time and excorsizing patience which I believe is helping out with my success to date. I will be posting pics later...
The truck up high
The target passenger side
The parts bin
First one came out with ease
Got one more left still in tact but the little bugger is hard to get to and the nut is rounded off a bit. This one of course is a lower stud abouve the motor mount so I can't even see it well enough to grind it off... Looks like a trip to sears is in order for a rounded nut grabber socket!
Oh you have an Excursion, that explains it. Your truck never saw a days work in it's life
Looks like you dodged a bullet, Salt kills them round here...
Work? What's that??? Salt? Not in western NY!!!
I can't pretend to know what you consider work but I've got 180,000 miles of hauling boats, cars, trailers and pushing a plow (note the plow frame on the front)!!!
But seriuosly this excursion was bought for working not shopping and I am totally suprised at how good things look underneath her after 10 years of hard labor.
As a side note; I am only 25% through this project so we shall see if my bullet dodging prevails!
So, while I'm at it I figured I will replace the shocks and everyone seems to love the Bilsteins... Any suggestions here for hauling and handling? I'm looking at the Monroes, Ranchos or Bilsteins???
I done both sides, my bolts were broken just like that, even with the depth of he manifold. Took me about 6 hours each side. My bolts were a little ruster than those shows. Tips: Use a 6 point 12 mm socket (a few were 1/2 in size. (Dont use PB on the ones not broken, that way it will bring out the studs with them) Use a 6 point socket after wire brushing nuts and pound them ojn carefully. (YOU DO NOT WHAT TO ROUND THE NUTS OFF) After the manifold is removed use PB on the studs that have about 1/2 to 3/4 inches available for a pipe wrench, use a very small pipewrench and a newer one that will bite good, about a 6 inch pipe wrench. Install new studs, use anti siese greese, dont put them in very tight, use torqe specs. GOOD LUCKm it is scary.
So, while I'm at it I figured I will replace the shocks and everyone seems to love the Bilsteins... Any suggestions here for hauling and handling? I'm looking at the Monroes, Ranchos or Bilsteins???
Nice limo. go with the Bils top of the line, 25% more tho.
Get another 100K out of them. Might want to consider coil overs with the plow set up.
We can only hope you start to have a bad time like the rest of us. You should put an add in CL for Ford Stud removal. If they are all that easy you will make a mint. The repair goes for around $500 plus studs.
When you put them back use SS marine studs with lots of Anti-Sieze. Bullet dodged so far. Time will tell.
All the shops in MI will not touch them due to recalls.
Well, so much for the good luck! On the right side I have 9 of ten out thanks to the craftsman bolt extractor kit I picked up Unfortunately I have one broken off in the head port #2 top form the rear. I have a right angle close quarters drill and left hand bits but all I've managed to do so far is chew it up and come dangerously close to cutting into the head. It seams no matter what angle I try to come from I can not get a straight shot at the center due to lack of clearence. Tomorrow I will see if I can find some stubby drill bits...
The other three broken ones had meat which I was able to grab and extract with the craftsman sockets
I used an air grinder cutting wheel to cut the bolts and seperate the y pipe flange from the manifold
I don't think these parts wer meant to look like this but hey it has been 180,000 miles!
Now I have two issues to face tomorrow the first being the drilling and extraction of that recessed stub and the second will be getting the studs out of the manifold flange.
Thanks for the suggestion on a better quality bit & Tap set. Will look into it for the future. Right now, slowly concentrating on chewing out the center of the broken tap with Carbide bits, takes patience and walk away time.
Today, had to walk away after Dremel off/on switch bit the dust, went over an borrowed my sons, so back to the battle tomorrow, very close to the end of the tap, just one full tooth set hanging on, then the step or ground down nose end taps, then it should fall out.
Then to try to tap the treads to clean it out, wish me luck, then it's reassembly time, can't wait. Will keep y'all posted, it's really been a journey!
You've had a hell of a fight here. I never had to chase any of the threads in my heads. Are the studs seized to the aluminum?
I can only imagine how frustating this is, because I've been there.
Once its done you can think about the money (a lot) you've saved. Any garage charges straight time for epairs like these.
Well, so much for the good luck! On the right side I have 9 of ten out thanks to the craftsman bolt extractor kit I picked up Unfortunately I have one broken off in the head port #2 top form the rear. I have a right angle close quarters drill and left hand bits but all I've managed to do so far is chew it up and come dangerously close to cutting into the head. It seams no matter what angle I try to come from I can not get a straight shot at the center due to lack of clearence. Tomorrow I will see if I can find some stubby drill bits...
The other three broken ones had meat which I was able to grab and extract with the craftsman sockets
I used an air grinder cutting wheel to cut the bolts and seperate the y pipe flange from the manifold
I don't think these parts wer meant to look like this but hey it has been 180,000 miles!
Now I have two issues to face tomorrow the first being the drilling and extraction of that recessed stub and the second will be getting the studs out of the manifold flange.
Any suggestions would be welcome...
I would just drill them out and tap new holes. You can easily enlarge the coresponding hole in the flange to match.
I would just drill them out and tap new holes. You can easily enlarge the coresponding hole in the flange to match.
I thought about that but was concerned my holes might not line up when its all said and done. This is a project unlike any I've done since I was 17 and swapped my Mopar 318 out for a 440 six pack in my 72 Charger. I think that was easier than this.
I can't pretend to know what you consider work but I've got 180,000 miles of hauling boats, cars, trailers and pushing a plow (note the plow frame on the front)!!!
But seriuosly this excursion was bought for working not shopping and I am totally suprised at how good things look underneath her after 10 years of hard labor.
As a side note; I am only 25% through this project so we shall see if my bullet dodging prevails!
Owned.
__________________ 2002 F-250 - V10, Crew Cab, Short Bed, Lariat 4x4 aka My Lovely Big Girl.
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Here is a link to get some from Jimmie:
Those guy's loved the lifetime warranty.
Salt? Not in western NY!!!
Time will tell.
Well, so much for the good luck! On the right side I have 9 of ten out thanks to the craftsman bolt extractor kit I picked up Unfortunately I have one broken off in the head port #2 top form the rear. I have a right angle close quarters drill and left hand bits but all I've managed to do so far is chew it up and come dangerously close to cutting into the head. It seams no matter what angle I try to come from I can not get a straight shot at the center due to lack of clearence. Tomorrow I will see if I can find some stubby drill bits...
