The header gaskets are discontinued. They will come in the kit with the headers but can't get the by theirself. What I ran into so far is you can get manifold gaskets for a v10 but everywhere it has to be ordered. Nothing in stock, autozone, advance, napa, car quest pep boys. I bought Ford motorsport headers, I had to grind the head on the both side to get them to fit right I also had to do away with the bolts that came in the kit they are not near long enough. I have to go out and cut the grass around the truck because it has become a yard ornament. At this point I dont care if it gets fixed or not, I went looking at some other trucks this morning and found nothing of any interest. I thougt of a chevy or GMC duramax but my friend bought one and he is having all kinds of trouble with it.
I picked up a set of manifold gaskets in stock at Auto Zone about a month ago, they were made by Fel-Pro, had sort of a waffle look, 2 x 3 port and 2 x 2 port in one box for about $ 20.00, but after discussing it on this forum I decided to return them and buy a single set for the driver side, a 3 port and 2 port from the Ford dealer in Malone, NY. US$ 50.00 approx. for just one side, ouch! But figure their better made and wanted to stick to OEM.
Hey, the lower Radiator hose @ 89.00 USD is also discountinued, TeamFordParts found a few at a dealer in LA and hence the price went from 48.00 to 89.00! Ouch again.
Searched all over today for a #8 Metric tap to clean out the treads after I hopefully extract the final 5 studs on the driver side. No rush, but thought I'd pick it up and be ready. I'll keep looking.
It does take a #8 metric tap I bought a set at Sears 34.00. The gaskets I used on were SCE copper what I did was buy a set for a 4.6/5.4 with the round ports I cut the spare gasket 1 and used four + one = 5 it works great. The two holes that I tapped I put studs in there. I have the truck back together the job is a PIA to say the least. I have the headers on it, the truck must have been leaking for a while because it is so quiet. I have maybe a little more power and torque at least it feels that way. Anybody that has to do this I feel for it is a bad job
Heading out this am to pick up tile for master bath reno, big job keeps me mentally stable, and away from the manifold studs, Ha!
There is a Sears next to building supply, so will stop in to see if they have a #8 metric tap/set. Thanks.
Your are probally feeling some power improvement because of a better flowing exhaust, the lower noise I'm sure is a nice benefit.
Wish me luck, I'm still going at it, although rain is forecast for the next 3-4 days.
Hmmm,
I have to do mine on my excursion. I have been puting it off for a year now. Just pulled my 32' TT to canada, was making more noise than usual. I guess I am finally going to have to bite the bullet and get it done.
Thanks to everyone for the great advise. And good luck to those that are still not done yet.
Good luck to all. I do have more power and a more throaty sound not loud at all. When going up the hills the truck doesn't down shift and it seems like you can lug it down more.
I just found this out, I was checking the exhaust bolts after I heat cycled them the side with copper gasket on the header was still tight the pass. side with the gasket that came with the headers I got about a 1/4-1/2 a turn per bolt.
I took my truck back to the installer after about 100 miles and he too got about 1/4 turn on the Thorley gaskets.
Hmm.
I wonder with my factory gaskets and monifolds if I need to check them again. Just got back from a 2500 km pull to S.D and back.
The factory nuts are of a locking variety so I don't think they can loosen.
Truck is dead quiet and runs like a top. Tomorrow we are leaving for a trip pulling the travel trailer up north.
Update, last posted July 22nd., shortly thereafter got a call and spent a week in NY state with MIL who passed away the 26th. She was 90, but it's still hard.
Well, my son and his boss, welder by prof., came by, rented a Mig with gas bottle, only managed to remove broken off stud at lower #5 cylinder, passengerside. Studs at cylinder 9 & 10 are still there, welded several nuts on 3 of them, all broke off.
The lower stud on cyl #10 was already originally broken off inside head surface, truely difficult to center drill as it's broken at an angle.
They left me some nice Center Punches, to try and drill out the remaining 4 studs, wish me luck, if this does not work, plan on replacing manifold with gaskets and driving it over to a heavy truck shop. Guess they'll have to remove the head. Ouch!
Update, last posted July 22nd., shortly thereafter got a call and spent a week in NY state with MIL who passed away the 26th. She was 90, but it's still hard.
Well, my son and his boss, welder by prof., came by, rented a Mig with gas bottle, only managed to remove broken off stud at lower #5 cylinder, passengerside. Studs at cylinder 9 & 10 are still there, welded several nuts on 3 of them, all broke off.
The lower stud on cyl #10 was already originally broken off inside head surface, truely difficult to center drill as it's broken at an angle.
They left me some nice Center Punches, to try and drill out the remaining 4 studs, wish me luck, if this does not work, plan on replacing manifold with gaskets and driving it over to a heavy truck shop. Guess they'll have to remove the head. Ouch!
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Eugene.
I really don't think there is enough room in there to center punch the stud properly.
I would find some reverse cobalt bits and start drilling.
Thanks for the info on the Reverse Cobalt Bits, will try to find some, have not had much luck here in Quebec.
I had my neighbour, a machinist by trade come over to take a look, he has a special Center Punch tool that apparently makes a perfect center point and does not require a hammer, not sure how in functions, but it's worth a try. However, this is a class 'A" motorhome and there should be enough room to use a hammer and traditional center punch also, but will certainly give him a chance to use his tool.
Also noticed that the lower stud at #9 where I had broken off a spiral extractor, the weld on the last nut removed the broken sprial end. So I'm good to go and drill it right through, fill it with PBlaster so it runs back down through the treads.
My neighbour also has all the tools to retread if we damage some treads, and the stainless studs are available locally.
Rain resumed today after about a week of great hot, sticky, muggy weather, hey, I'm not complaining, but now it's going to rain for another 3 days, will probally get back to the studs early next week. Thanks again for being there, was'nt sure if I should start a new tread. Eugene.
UPDATE: Hey it did not rain, retired machinist came over, we managed, no he managed, I felt like a surgeon's assistant, removed through drilling, combination of titanium bits and carbite bowl type bits to get "2" yes two done and retapped to 8mm x 1.25.
So, I'm very enthusiastic, two left to go, and we did the worst two first, the predrilled one and the recessed one. Just depending on the weather, it should be done by Monday.
Can't wait to have a functional motorhome sitting in the driveway. More to follow!!!
Went at it alone yesterday, neighbour machinist went cycle training for an upcoming tour Paris/Morrocco/Senegal, he's 71, and he did an african tour a year or so ago, pretty serious. The afternoon he was booked by spouse to do windows.
Hey, so I managed to drill out the two remaining at the top of cyclinder #9 & 10 driver side back of engine. Using the spring type center point punch, and the carbide small bits on my dremel, managed to maintain a nice center direction right through, using 1/8", then 3/16" and finally 1/4", so now just have to tap those two holes and ready to reasemble, can't believe it. It really is getting done. More to follow!!!
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
