Thanks Saskdiesel for the reply, picked up the flat mouth Vice grip today, will get back at it in the morning, wish me luck, ha!
I have an extractor set, Blk & Decker, so will give that a shot if the vice grip does not hold tight, more concerned about the studs braking off at the head, either way slipping vice grip of shear off at head, will drill a center hole and go after them with the extractor.
Will probally know by weekend if my son can save the EGR pipe, nut ripped off like yours did, then I cut the pipe.
Either way, I am still only out for the cost of a few minor tools and the studs/nuts set and gaskets, my labor is cheap!!! EGR cost is an unknown as of now, will call Ford dealer in NY State tomorrow, we travel there often, costs are usually much lower than here in Canada, even if taxes are charged at the border, often they don't bother on smaller values in same day trips.
Local shop wanted to do the Stud replacement but warned up front it could be costly and the actually aluminum head may have to come off and sent out to a machine shop to extract the studs, decided I could do that myself if it comes to that, which I doubt from your experience and others I have read about doing it yourselves.
Thanks Saskdiesel for the reply, picked up the flat mouth Vice grip today, will get back at it in the morning, wish me luck, ha!
I have an extractor set, Blk & Decker, so will give that a shot if the vice grip does not hold tight, more concerned about the studs braking off at the head, either way slipping vice grip of shear off at head, will drill a center hole and go after them with the extractor.
Will probally know by weekend if my son can save the EGR pipe, nut ripped off like yours did, then I cut the pipe.
Either way, I am still only out for the cost of a few minor tools and the studs/nuts set and gaskets, my labor is cheap!!! EGR cost is an unknown as of now, will call Ford dealer in NY State tomorrow, we travel there often, costs are usually much lower than here in Canada, even if taxes are charged at the border, often they don't bother on smaller values in same day trips.
Local shop wanted to do the Stud replacement but warned up front it could be costly and the actually aluminum head may have to come off and sent out to a machine shop to extract the studs, decided I could do that myself if it comes to that, which I doubt from your experience and others I have read about doing it yourselves.
Will post results soon. Eugene.
Here are some pics of the stud extractor. I'm not refering to the easy-outs pictured. This thing grips them close to the head and out they come. And some were very tight.
Keep at it and be prepared to walk away for a while if you need to.
Hey, that looks like a better tool option extractor, my set requires drilling a hole and inserting the proper cone shaped left threaded extractor.
Where did you purchase your extractor, is there a brand name?
I am about to go out and try the new flat mouthed vice grips, and yes I have been walking away quite a bit, learned over the years it saves breaking things and making a job worst. Update soon. Eugene.
Well, the flat mouth Vise Grips won't hold the stud, no matter how hard I try to clamp it tight.
Went out looking for the drill chuck style stud remover you so kindly photographed, the best I could find at several auto part stores is a set of 4 various sized socket type stud removers, about C$ 5l.00, they should be in stock at parts store tomorrow.
WIll also see if my son and his boss who run a Harley shop can come over if I rent a welder that can do the job, I have no experience with a torch, other than the small propane types for plumbing. Eugene.
I bought it at Princess Auto (I live in Canada). It is made by Task Tools.
If you really needed this tool and couldn't find anything like it, I could mail it to you.
It does not go on a drill though. You just tighten it up with a wrench and out comes the stud.
Thanks, I live in Hudson, Qc. just a few kilometers east of the Ontario border doubt if we have a Princess Auto here, but I will Google Task Tools and see if I can find a local store that carries it. Realize it does not go on a drill, it just looks like a drill chuck.
I presume when you put a wrench to it, and your turn it left to unscrew the stud it tightens the grip and turns out the stud, should work great.
Will also check out the Socket type extractor set one local Auto store has ordered in, will see it tomorrow.
Thanks for offering to mail it to me, that is a real kind offer, may take you up on it if the Socket type's don't do the trick. Will continue to post my results.
Thanks, I live in Hudson, Qc. just a few kilometers east of the Ontario border doubt if we have a Princess Auto here, but I will Google Task Tools and see if I can find a local store that carries it. Realize it does not go on a drill, it just looks like a drill chuck. I presume when you put a wrench to it, and your turn it left to unscrew the stud it tightens the grip and turns out the stud, should work great.
Will also check out the Socket type extractor set one local Auto store has ordered in, will see it tomorrow.
Thanks for offering to mail it to me, that is a real kind offer, may take you up on it if the Socket type's don't do the trick. Will continue to post my results.
Thats what it does. But if you want, I could also buy you a new one. I know they had a few more.
This tool is made for extracting studs that are either round or ones that have been mangled and are very irregular.
Great thread! Nice work, many good tips and techniques, generous offers!
And with additional threads referenced. I say worth a sticky!!!
Patience is the most important thing for these deals. I've done a lot of early Nissan 3.0 V6 Pathfinders which is another (of MANY!) vehicles that tend to have this problem. And their engine compartments are more than a bit tighter to work in....
Some tips I always throw out for projects like these.
1) PB Blaster! Best penetrant/corrosion dissolver I've found.
2) Time is your friend. If you can take the time, give the PB lots of it to work. I had a seriously frozen EGR fitting on an '87. Kept applying PB, heat, taps, and torque and it eventually came loose - 5 days later!
3) Heating the surrounding material helps. The material expands and releases its grip just a bit.
4) Impact helps break corrosion loose.
5) When drilling, use a left hand fluted drill. You'll be surprised (and delighted!) how many times the stump will come out while drilling in LH direction....
6) Cheap extractors are the worst possible tool!!!!!! Don't even try it, trust me. They almost always break and make a bad situation much worse. Invest only in VERY high quality square ones like those in the pictures. Spiral ones break easier than square.
My routine: Spray and let soak overnight. Then try to remove.
If it won't come out, begin "the cycle":
a) Heat the surrounding material with propane torch. Not red or melting hot - just hot. I usually heat until residual PB is burned off.
b) Give the end of the stud a sharp rap with a hard hammer - not enough to mushroom the head, just to make it "ring" a bit and break up corrosion.
c) Apply more PB.
d) Let sit at least 15 minutes.
e) Try to remove.
Repeat until it comes loose. 90% of really stuck things will come loose after 3 or 4 cycles. The other 10%? Well, sometimes life really does suck and patience is not enough. Then I drill and tap. Or insert.
__________________
'99 F250 V10 Super Cab Long Bed 4x4. '06 short block, PI conversion, modded airbox, 5 Star custom tune, 315/75-16's, 4.30 LSD.
Why, yes, I am some kind of a geek engineer. Thank you for asking.
saskdiesel. Thanks for the offer to buy me a new one, but I could probally contact Princess Auto and have them post it to me, thereby saving you the problem of putting out money and time.
I have a note out to Task Tools in Delta, BC, asking for the Stud Extractor, could not find it on their Product listing. And where I can souce it locally here near home. Will let you know how that works out.
11mwsF250 . You guys are all great, thanks for the heads up on the Spiral Extractors, will get my money back and pickup a High Quality SQUARE one like in the pic's.
ALso, interesting input on heating up the surronding arear near the stud with Propane torch, and not needing to get it Red Hot, will proceed and follow your steps.
Have looked all over for Left Handed Fluted drill bits, no luck yet.
But my 5 studs are all sticking out above the head by 3/8-1/2 inch, so the Task Tool Stud Extractor looks like it may get the job done with a little more heat, hammer tap, more PB Blaster and patience.
Thanks again guys.
Oops, my bad.
It is made by Titan. Hope I didn't send anyone on a wild goose chase!
Anyway, I had a set of Snap-On socket style extractors. They would not work on the chewed up studs. If I wouldn't have mangled them they may have worked fine. So if you have a set of these don't use vise grips first!
I was able to remove two studs with them, but the rest had to come out with the cheapo Taiwan tool.
Finally got it completely together tonight. Very nice not to have any exhaust noise. In fact, it is so much quiter it sounds like a different motor.
There is no way you could do this with the inner fenders in place.
Its is a very tight fit to remove the inner fender plastic retaining plugs with the running boards on. There are two plugs to remove. With a little prying it can be done without removing the running boards.
What is this piece? It fell out when I pulled out the drivers side inner fender. I have looked and cannot figure out where it goes. Leftover part from the factory?
Thanks saskdiesel for the update, will look for the Titan Stud Extractor locally, I have indeed mangled 2 of the 5 studs that need removal. Did a quick Google of Titan and there appear to be a PA, USA company and they do have Stud extractors but the Socket type, still researching their site for the model you have. May need to contact Princess Auto if can't find locally.
Hey, that's a nice Truck, and I can see your certainly happy with the manifold results.
My son phoned last night, he was able to heat remove the two manifold/pipe studs that I sawzall'd off, then he was able to remove the bottom portion of the EGR tube with the big nut as well, will be ordering a new EGR tube today from a Ford Dealer in the USA, retail there is 78.00, will probally order the upper and lower radiator hoses as well, replaced the radiator & fan clutch last year, we have about 78M miles on the RV.
Try to do most maintenance myself, luck having it done has not been rewarding, they usually break something, such as overtightening the trans pan bolts, deforming the pan itself. Other stories too, now that I am retired, I tend to take my time and get er done beside the house where it is stored.
UPDATE!!!
Well, I tried using the Socket type Stud Removel 5/16", heated up area around each stud, tapped with hammer, reshot with PB Blaster, waited 15 minutes on each of the 3 treaded studs not damaged by my Vise Grips, Socket slips right on up to the head, then turned the socket on by hand to tighten, then put the 1/2" socket drive in the end and began turning , it tugged a little, then it slipped completely loose, then tried hand tightening again, then socket drive, it just slips loose, attempted on all 3 threaded studs, no go.
Totally useless set of 4 Socket Removel set, returning it to the Auto Parts store, probally will cost me 10.00 restocking on 50.00 set, oh well.
Going to phone Princess Auto in Ottawa Ont. to see if I can order the Titan 3/8" Stud Extractor today. Again, patience....Not really a rush job anyway, it'll get done!
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