I don't know what size hex it is but I'll bet its metric. Your 400ftlber may move it who knows, you could jack up the air pressure to give it more bite. I'm just saying I used an impact on some rusted stuff already and an impact with an advertised 800ft lbs. didn't budge it. I would not cut the egr tube unless nothing else works. With some big wrenches, a big pipe, wrench, some heat and maybe some smacks with the hammer I think you should be able to get it loose. I always have a few large rigid pipe wrenches around just in case, you never know when you need them.
What about undoing the top end at the egr and taking the whole thing out with the manifold attached. or as a last resort remove the egr valve from the throttle body if she's siezed to the tube up top.
I think the answer on the EGR tube is to get the biggest pipe wrench you have along with the biggest cheater bar you can find. You might even VERY carefully tap on all sides of the nut with an air hammer just to see if you can't break the bond it's formed. As always hit that SOB with as much PB blaster or Kroil as you can afford.
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Mike - 2004 F-250 V10 CC FX4 SRW
$200? Wowser!! If I remember right I paid just shy of $50 for the EGR tube, unless the price went up that much in a years time I don't know. It's going to be harder to get it off while in the engine bay.
As for the studs, major pita. Ones that are broken off below the surface make sure you're centered and drill through the entire stud, there's a small area between the bottom end of the stud and the head so you'll know before you start drilling into the head. Then soak that dude down good through the hole you drilled with the best penetrating oil you can find and let sit awhile before trying to ez-out.
[quote=saskdiesel;7623669]My personal hell...........
I have welded a nut to this stud twice, but it shears off each time I turn it. Its getting shorter. I still have two more studs like this and one thats busted 1/8 of an inch inside the head.
I figure I will try this until its below the head then start drilling. No use welding below the head if it keeps snapping off.[quote]
Driver's side...one on the bottom?
I had to have a shop do my studs ($500 labor, $40 parts). All the DS snapped below the surface & had to have a nut welded on. One would not come out via welded nut or drilled out. Seems crossthreaded from the factory.A decision was made to leave the one stud out & see if it leaks, because I didin't want to remove the head. So far so good.
btw mine is a June 2002 build truck.
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2002 F-250 Lariat CC SB 4x4 V10
2005 Ford Five Hundred SEL AWD
2005 Mercury Montego Premier AWD
When I put headers on my F-150 (4.6) I slipped my jack handle over the end of my crescent wrench to break the EGR loose after letting everything soak in marvel mystery oil for 24 hours. For the studs broken flush with the head I bought a close quarter drill and used an easy out. Letting them soak in penetrating oil will greatly help ( I'm guessing thats what we're seeing in the pictures). Good Luck
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-2002 Ford Excursion Limited V-10 4x4 -Lifted with Bilstein 5100's and BFG All Terrains
-1999 Ford F-150 XLT 4.6 2WD -Hyperteched with K&N and Flowmaster exhaust -JBA Shorty Stainless Headers
-4.56's with Eaton Locker and Superior Axles
-Camburg Front Suspension -Deaver Leaf springs in the rear -Bilstein 5100's
The results of an hour or so.....one stud extracted.
I may grow very old doing this.
The hole isn't centered but there is no room to center punch.
This is one of two studs are getting so chewed up the stud remover I borrowed won't even get a bite on them. I will drive into town and see if I can find a flatter jawed vise-grip. I need to buy a 1 3/16 wrench for that stupid EGR which still refuses to budge.
All the broken studs are out.
Anti-seize on the new ones and installed. Anyone know the torque specs for the studs and nuts?
I know the pattern is back to front but my manual does not list the fastener spec for some reason.
I need to get 16 more nuts tomorrow from the dealer but I am seeing light at the end of this dark tunnel!
The manifolds are on. 18ft/lbs to the nuts and 90 inch pounds to the studs.
I got the boy to gob a bit of weld to the EGR nut and weld the rattling heat shields underneath. The next guy will be going "what the *&%*"! Both manifolds were near perfect as far as deflection goes.
Should have this done tomorrow.
A small pile of rusted junk. No way should these studs be snapping like this. I can only hope Ford has changed something in them to prevent this.
The broken exhaust gasket was from the drivers side and appears to have been like that since the truck was new?
I found two broke on my v10 this morning, I guess I have to tear into it also. I just ordered a set of Ford V-10 headers from Roush Racing. I already have the off-road y-pipe on and cat back duels which have helped this truck only has 60,000 miles on it. I t should be fun
I'm into the same job, have 4 studs broken on driver side, at rear of engine, managed to back out 5 clean with stud and nut in tackall , but sheared off a lower one right over the engine mount. But all are broke off at manifold level. Had to cut the EGR tube, upper nut sheared off, very little metal holding that on.
Using second can of PB Blaster, tried using a pair of nuts but they just stripped treads, and the 3 vise grips I have aren't working, will go out and buy a flatter mouth Vise grip, have not been able to back any of the 5 out yet.
My plumbing propane torch just is not hot enough, will have to get higher heat, so I can weld nuts on like you did, all studs are still sticking outside the head by 3/8 to 1/2".
Delivered the head to my mechanic son who is going to remove the two cut off pipe bolts aswell as the cut off EGR lower pipe and big nut. Could not get the EGR/Manifold out in one piece, different configuration EGR on my rig/99 Motorhome chassis.
There's another 2 nuts off on passenger side, also the last two at rear of engine, not leaking yet, will consider doing it once this is done.
Thanks for your post, great photo's very helpful, and your done, so I am feeling like it will get done, albiet with some worn kuckles and patience. Eugene.
I'm into the same job, have 4 studs broken on driver side, at rear of engine, managed to back out 5 clean with stud and nut in tackall , but sheared off a lower one right over the engine mount. But all are broke off at manifold level. Had to cut the EGR tube, upper nut sheared off, very little metal holding that on.
Using second can of PB Blaster, tried using a pair of nuts but they just stripped treads, and the 3 vise grips I have aren't working, will go out and buy a flatter mouth Vise grip, have not been able to back any of the 5 out yet.
My plumbing propane torch just is not hot enough, will have to get higher heat, so I can weld nuts on like you did, all studs are still sticking outside the head by 3/8 to 1/2".
Delivered the head to my mechanic son who is going to remove the two cut off pipe bolts aswell as the cut off EGR lower pipe and big nut. Could not get the EGR/Manifold out in one piece, different configuration EGR on my rig/99 Motorhome chassis.
There's another 2 nuts off on passenger side, also the last two at rear of engine, not leaking yet, will consider doing it once this is done.
Thanks for your post, great photo's very helpful, and your done, so I am feeling like it will get done, albiet with some worn kuckles and patience. Eugene.
Thats what I was going to do, and I actually bought it along with a 3 claw stud extractor.
The stud extractor removed all my broken studs when the vise-grip couldn't hold onto them. I would suggest you buy similar. It cost $18. Well worth the money.
I was welding with the MIG, not the MAPP torch. The MAPP torch was very helpful it getting the nuts on the y-pipe cherry red. I just zapped them off with the impact.
I have always found that you break less fasteners with the impact. Even if you don't have air you can buy some very nice electric impact guns nowdays.
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