Yep those left hander bits are the chit! As for tough drilling it's cause the studs are stainless steel not to mention your getting a workout and it's likely starting to catch up to ya. Sounds like you're seeing light at the end of the tunnel finally. Won't be long!
Well, that was a lucky break, the lefty bits are said to work some time. Myself, I'm still chewing away at the broken tap end with carbide bits, which are now wearing smooth and not cutting, heading our today to find some new carbide's, and wondering of the diamond cutting bits would do any better.
Looks like I will have to be going one size larger and putting in an insert for a #8mm bolt, or just buying a #10 bolt for that one hole.
Frustration has crept in on several occasions, I just get off my sore knee's and walk away for the day.
Once I get this stud hole free of the broken tap, and get it setup with insert or larger bolt I have one more headache to overcome. My retired machinist neighbour left me with the rear most bottom bolt hole at about a 10-15 degree angle leaning left and upward towards the manifold, I'm comtemplating putting a wedge larger nut to carry an even pressure.
Otherwise, I am at a loss as to correct the misaligned hole, can't imagine trying to drill a straighter hole with the present hole already leaning to the right and down in the aluminum head. Any suggestions?
Well, that was a lucky break, the lefty bits are said to work some time. Myself, I'm still chewing away at the broken tap end with carbide bits, which are now wearing smooth and not cutting, heading our today to find some new carbide's, and wondering of the diamond cutting bits would do any better.
Looks like I will have to be going one size larger and putting in an insert for a #8mm bolt, or just buying a #10 bolt for that one hole.
Frustration has crept in on several occasions, I just get off my sore knee's and walk away for the day.
Once I get this stud hole free of the broken tap, and get it setup with insert or larger bolt I have one more headache to overcome. My retired machinist neighbour left me with the rear most bottom bolt hole at about a 10-15 degree angle leaning left and upward towards the manifold, I'm comtemplating putting a wedge larger nut to carry an even pressure.
Otherwise, I am at a loss as to correct the misaligned hole, can't imagine trying to drill a straighter hole with the present hole already leaning to the right and down in the aluminum head. Any suggestions?
Keep at it Gene,
Use the flat carbide & the angle grinder. This is where the steady hand comes into play, over size it enough to get the Keensert into it. Tap the oversize hole I think the size is like 12mm if my memory serves. When you put the Kennserts in use some 5 min steel epoxy around the threads. when hard it will make up for any little gaps. Worse comes to worse weld a little around the manifold to beef up the flange, then make the stud hole a little bigger to accept the off set hole.
I have been up north at the dunes all weekend you guys got some chit done, Glad to see ya got it Annie...
I did manage to lift the engine and I did not take off the tranny mount bolts. Man my hands are killing me! I don't know why I have so much trouble drilling these... it seems like I am getting no cut from brand new bits!
The studs are stainless. Kinda hard to get any drill bit to cut, but I used a "titanium" or some such extra-hard bit and it went right through them.
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The studs are stainless. Kinda hard to get any drill bit to cut, but I used a "titanium" or some such extra-hard bit and it went right through them.
Are you saying the factory studs were stainless when built? If that's so why are they all so rusted?
I've used cobalt, and titanium and neither are sutting through much. My left hand cheapos from harbor freight are the only bits making any progress here.
I've now got the last two drilled to a point where I think I could get an extractor in there but after reading Gene's adventure; I am hesitant to even try that route at all!
At the front lower stud
Well... I tried the extractors to no avail but at least I did not break one off in the stud! . Unfortunately the the that were left did not drill out well but they are drilled. I am now in tap mode.
Now a question; What should be my minimum thread depthe for the two I have to tap? It looks like when it's all said and done I'll have three studs which will only have about 1/2" grab in the heads... is that enough considering the other 17 are OEM?
Over a decade ago I had to tap new holes in a FJ1200 head. The holes were shallow so the tap would bottom out and break.
So we ran the tap into each hole to get the threads started. Then we cut the tap right at the point where it started to taper. The we used the "modified tap" to get deeper into the hole.
It all worked out very well. I suppose there is a tap you could buy instead of wrecking a good tap.
Can't recall the depth, but I do remember there is a gap at the end of the stud so you should drill through the stud and into that space that way you can spray/squirt PB up inside and let it work from that end. Also, I'd be stuffing a rags up into the exhaust port to keep any shavings from getting in there. As for the depth of the threads - no clue. Maybe someone else will chime in with a #.
Well, patience has paid off, ended up with 2 Heli-Coil inserts, one an oversize 7/16"-14 with a 7/16" coarse tread, the other an M8-1.25 to straighten the crooked hole, worked out just fine. Torqued everything up to 10 ft-lbs, then 18 ft-lbs.
Took some surgery work on some over hang aluminum near the floor of the Class A to have the new EGR tube to fit nicely. Tightened that up, checked the oil and prestone levels. Fired er up, well, that's one swell sounding 99 V-10. A bit of a ping noise till warmed up, so did a MAP sensor cleaning, that cleared that up. Will get a new Air Filter to replace the K & N, it is usually the culprit in messing up the MAP.
Did and oil/filter and grease job today, checked tire pressures, down a few pounds after sitting since May.
Heading to Maine at the end of the month, will check the torque on manifold when I get back, don't forsee any issues.
Thanks again for your support. Eugene.
Well, patience has paid off, ended up with 2 Heli-Coil inserts, one an oversize 7/16"-14 with a 7/16" coarse tread, the other an M8-1.25 to straighten the crooked hole, worked out just fine. Torqued everything up to 10 ft-lbs, then 18 ft-lbs.
Took some surgery work on some over hang aluminum near the floor of the Class A to have the new EGR tube to fit nicely. Tightened that up, checked the oil and prestone levels. Fired er up, well, that's one swell sounding 99 V-10. A bit of a ping noise till warmed up, so did a MAP sensor cleaning, that cleared that up. Will get a new Air Filter to replace the K & N, it is usually the culprit in messing up the MAP.
Did and oil/filter and grease job today, checked tire pressures, down a few pounds after sitting since May.
Heading to Maine at the end of the month, will check the torque on manifold when I get back, don't forsee any issues.
Thanks again for your support. Eugene.
Awesome! Glad to hear you are back up and running!
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. Unfortunately the the that were left did not drill out well but they are drilled. I am now in tap mode.
