Huh?

I would love to go with the banks exhaust but it just is not in my budget right now. I am more inclined to be looking for a 2005 replacement for this truck sometime soon and maybe I'll do the banks on that one then.

 

Saskdiesel: Yes they are seized to the aluminum head, I just go slow, will probally get back at it after lunch today.
Anneslimo: I used a pen sized spring loaded punch to mark center on some, which were two angled off broken, I used some round headed and flat headed carbide bits to get them flat, then the punch, or the small round headed carbide bit to set a center bowl, then went at it with a short left hand bit to start, they did not back out, so drilled larger and larger right though till 1/4" then tap new treads, works well unless the tap breaks, Ha. Well hope to finish carbide chewing out the left over broken tap today.
More to follow.....

 

Thanks Gene, this one is being a real little biotch!!! I finally got through the stud with a 1/8 left bit only to proceed and break off the easy out in the through hole.

Having lunch myself then off to HD for stronger bits and start again !

 

The owned was for the response you had to the guy who said the truck looked like it had never worked a day in it's life.

 

That's what I thought, and how I took it. I just wanted to make sure that's what you meant.

I think it's unfortunate that Ford caved in to the cry babies whining about this truck's existence and global warming by discontinueing production. Ford should have stood up and defended it's purpose as a luxury family work horse.

I am truly saddenned that when I do decide to buy a new work truck it will have to be an F series or a GM product.

 

I fanally got my one PIA stud drilled out but now have an irregularly shaped hole! I am concerned that one of my bits may have gone a bit too deep so I am considering packing the bottom with some JB weld just to re-enforce the space a bit.

Now I have some thoughts and again welcome some input; I and considering a few options for rethreading this hole which include drillin it larger and stepping up with the $$$ to buy the Time-Sert M8 thread repair kit. My second option is to round out the existing hole and step down to an M6 or as a last reort tap threads to an M10 or M12 and then enlrge the manifold hole to accomodate a larger diameter stud or bolt.

 

I have prepped the passenger side and now moved on to the drivers side. What a PIA this looks to beQ! Brake lines, fuel lines, steering column and a stubborn trim screw in the skirt above the frame front!

This side does not look like it is going to be enjoyable at all... From what I can see to start out I have 6 studs broken and lots of rust on the other 4. Looks like I'll be drilling at least 3 of the broken 6 yipee yahoo!

 

I hear you. That's why I love my Crew Cab 250. It's a worker, but I can still pack people in when I need too, which is something I can't say about my 2 seat Ranger. Plus, the Lariat trim gives very plush amenities, and it will go basically anywhere I need to. I got an Uncle coming up this Thanksgiving from down south, and here in Ohio we are expected a lot of snow by then. Everyone's worried about having to pick him up, except me, because I know my 6,000 lbs. sedan-truck-tank will go right through the crap.

 

Oh yah, she's a pita allright! Been there done that. Wish I had some helpful advice to make it easier but don't, cept that you might consider disconnecting the mounts and jacking up the motor a bit to get a better angle at it = more room. If you haven't already remove the shock tower to help too. It's just a straight up pita and glad mine is done.

 

I'll be glad when mine is done too. I was thinking the very same thing last night... If I were to jack the engine up a bit do I also need to pull the tranny mount bolts? How far up can I jack the pig before she crunchs into the firewall/floor?

Thanks for your input.

 

Krewat jacked his up and he had a write up about how he went about it but I can't recall whether he removed the bolts on the trans too or not. I would just to play it safe. I do know he jacked the motor up till the trans dipstick was up against the FW which apparently gave him enough room to work. I didn't but probably should have as it would have made the task much easier - looking back of course is always more clear.

Good luck!

 

i put off doing mine for a long time. i met a guy that managed a service department at a honda dealer. i asked him about the studs. he said no problem. $350.00 out the door, if i bring my own parts. i dropped it off. 2 days later i picked it up. he told me what a pita it was. all the studs on the passeger side broke except one. 6 studs broke on the driver side. all the studs where the y pipe connects broke also. the job paid the mechanic 4 hrs labor. he had in 8hr one day and about 5hr the next day. they will never do that job again i was told. i asked if i could tip the mechanic he told me it was not allowed.

runs great now though, and so quiet! i love my v10 again.

 

Isn't that the truth; Hindsight's always 20/20. I'm starting to think maybe pulling the whole moter would be easier! That way I could change the oil pan as well (not leaking yet) after all it's bound to need to be done sooner or later!

 

I did manage to lift the engine and I did not take off the tranny mount bolts. Man my hands are killing me! I don't know why I have so much trouble drilling these... it seems like I am getting no cut from brand new bits!

More pictures

Time to get at the drivers side...

..
Ouch, son of a %$*$#&


Started the drilling 1 of 3 it's a tight fit even with the engine lifted


The official photograper


Mom rescued a baby squirrel from 7 crows so we have a new pet!


Isn't he the cutest


OK, break's over time to get back to work.

 

YIPEE, YAHOO YEAH!!!

So, just as the frustration started to creep in; I loaded my drill with a 1/4 lefty intending on drill and tap and all of a sudden;;;


Out came the stud. If you tackle this project like us here have get the lefty bits like the man said! Sure it's only one stud but that's 33% of what I had left to do for stud removal!!!

Unfortunately the other two aren't cooperating as well...