Well with the help of you guys last time I saved myself a lot of money by not purchasing a new tailgate motor and was able to get the window back up THANKS!!! Now it's summer and time to fix the problem, the window will not roll down with either the key in the back or the switch up front. What is the best way to proceed? And don't worry I won't be offended if you use very basic strategy I don't mind. Thanks for reading
Yeah I know the motor works because a friend and I hit it with a battery and that's how we got it to go up for the winter. I'll check the switches thanks sir
I would bet that it is the safety switch in the driver side latch. what condition are your strike bolts in? try leaning into the tailgate on the drivers side while someone hits the dash switch. oh ya what year is your bronco so I can look up your wiring?
I would bet that it is the safety switch in the driver side latch. what condition are your strike bolts in? try leaning into the tailgate on the drivers side while someone hits the dash switch. oh ya what year is your bronco so I can look up your wiring?
96 EB the bolts seemed ok last time I looked but since the window is up its not a good idea to try and drop the gate. and the contacts looked ok from waht I can tell. I'll try leaning on it tommorow
ok I pushed the ever loving heck out of the drivers side while someone used the button and for fun the key in the back. Did not work, any more suggestions?
Just a note..My last Bronco rear window would not work with one of the switches, can't remember now which one.Found wire harness had broken wire from opening and closing tailgate.Found it right where it bends, easy to check .
Ok school is done for a week I really wanna get this baby fixed, I have the chiltons for it taht would have the diagram correct? Should this not work what would stop be from just running a wire to the motor the batter and a switch of my own?
I have never used the Chilton's for the Bronco always the Haynes. Truth is though, you have two different circuits that feed the gate window. Circuit 12 and circuit 14. Both are on auto-reset breakers instead of fuses. One is the power feed for the dashboard switch and the other is for the keyswitch. If neither of the switches will make the glass move it is most likely one of two issues. The interlock switch in the driver's side latch or a failed motor will the window motor from operating. Since we know the motor works, we can eliminate that possibility. The interlock on the latch will not allow the window to move if the latch isn't fully engaged (i.e. the gate isn't shut tight or the striker bolt is missing the bushing around the bolt) or the adjustment of the latch is off. Check the condition and alignment of the striker bolt on the driver's side first to be sure the latch is fully closing. A misaligned striker or missing striker bushing would be the simplest fix. If there is no issue there, the interlock switch is the next thing to check. Don't rule out more obvious things like damaged wires where the wiring harness runs from body to tailgate either.
__________________ Only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
1993 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD (at the moment)
1992 F-150 XLT 4.9, M5 (at the moment)
yeah I pushed and banged on the driver side with someone hitting the switch and nothing budged it. When I take the tailgate down how do I know if it's aligned right? I mean the thing shuts so I assumned it's aligned. And where is the safety switch? and while i'm at it where is the interlock switch? Why can't you guys live in Michigan? lol
Because I have too many shows to do here in STL, MO. But aside from that, the switch is a small proximity switch mounted to the back side of the latch. Getting at it is tedious but not impossible. To check the switch, open the gate and then manually close the driver's side latch. You will need to push both sides of the latch simultaneously otherwise closing one side releases the other. Fully closed, the two halves of the latch should form a near perfect circle at the center of the two halves (the size of the striker bolt shaft oddly enough). This way you can see that the latch is fully closed. Try to operate the window from each of the switches. If the window works, you know you have a latch alignment issue. If not, you have to dig further into the gate and get at the interlock switch to test it. While it isn't necessary to remove the latch/switch, it does make getting at it easier. Check too before you do anything that the wires to the interlock switch haven't merely broken off or corroded away from the switch.
__________________ Only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
1993 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD (at the moment)
1992 F-150 XLT 4.9, M5 (at the moment)
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