I've been using Purolator PureFlow1 for several years after reading they were among the good choices. Recently I tore one apart to see if any bad debris was inside, after the engine had 500 miles. They sure seem to be made well, though it is the only one I've dissassembled.
The kitchen can opener was ruined in the process, though it finally did the job. The glue used to attach paper element seems bulletproof. The antisiphon/antidrainback valve is very effective. My remote filter is mounted on the firewall above engine. When the filter is unscrewed, the whistling of air can be heard as the vacuum in the feed lines is released, and their oil inside returns to the crankcase.
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1946 1/2 ton with Y-block
1964 F-250, 292 4 speeed
1990 Ranger 4WD
1954 Model 600 tractor
I like the NAPA Gold filters. These are made by Gard and sold under the "Wix" brand elsewhere. They have a real coil spring for the relief valve (not some piece of tin with the corners bent down) and they have a real metal cap for the end of the paper pleated filtration part, into which the paper part is glued, rather than just having the pleated part glued to another piece of filtration paper. They also have a lot more surface area -- more pleats -- than some other filters I've seen.
Many years ago, I used the Fram Hi Performance filters. Rather than being painted a flat orange color, they were painted orange metal flake. These were also high quality filters, but my access to them ended and that's when I switched to the NAPA Gold/Wix/Gard filters.
I feel that the additional filtration surface is especially important with these newer cars, where the filters are so small to begin with.
I have known of people in winter having filters fail and come open on them, tho I cannot say what brand of filter they were using. It did illustrate to me that all filters are not created equal and that this can happen. It also illustrates what can happen when oil gets very thick in cold weather.
In case you are wondering what's inside a filter, you can check this page out -- it's complete with pictures and data:
I really did NOT mean to provoke anything at all. It was a poor choice of words. These forums are great for opinions and open debate about the best ways to keep our ol darlings running. My bet is we all change both the oil and filter out very often anyway.
I really did NOT mean to provoke anything at all. It was a poor choice of words. These forums are great for opinions and open debate about the best ways to keep our ol darlings running. My bet is we all change both the oil and filter out very often anyway.
With the frequent oil/filter changes most of us do, why is a relief valve necessary in a filter? I have noticed many brands have done away with the coiled spring relief.
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1946 1/2 ton with Y-block
1964 F-250, 292 4 speeed
1990 Ranger 4WD
1954 Model 600 tractor
How would one know whether something clogged a filter or not? This question is not posed as one to be answered by the users of this board. The manufacturer is going to ask it concerning all of the users of their product, which is a horse of a different color. Many cars don't have a gauge, so it is possible that oil pressure could drop without triggering the idiot light, making a clogged filter undetectable. Regarding doing away with the coil spring as part of the relief valve, it is much easier to calibrate a coil spring so that the amount of pressure needed to open the valve can be installed accurately in each filter. A bent piece of sheet metal is not going to be as accurate as a coil spring for this purpose. However, if one doesn't wish to pay the extra money for a coil spring, there are, as you say, many options on the market that avoid this expense.
Since starting this thread I have done my own research and comparison. Mainly talking to various mechanics and old timers who have looked up answers themselves. After gathering information, I decided to run...
Valvoline VR1 SAE 30
New ashless anti-wear additives combined with ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection
Enhanced anti-foam system helps protect the engine even during extreme stress
Enhanced additives protect against high-temperature deposits for a cleaner engine
Friction modifiers help improve horsepower output
Just my opinion. I've ran it for a couple of weeks and this weekend will be a long test for it. After which I will do an oil change and see what it looks like.
As for filters I run a FRAHM PH16 Due to the use of headers and filter location. If the filter is changed regularly along with the oil I personally don't see a problem with filter.
As for oil, the price of Valvoline VR1 SAE 30 is costly, but I'd rather pay a little extra and keep the old Y-block running as long as possible.
Thanks to all who have chimed in, it definately made for good reading.
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Staying low for now
64 lowered longbed
Robert
How would one know whether something clogged a filter or not? This question is not posed as one to be answered by the users of this board.
True.
BUT, if you're really worried about whether the bypass is open or not, you *could* put a gage on the filter housing that would display pressure across the filter. This is VERY common in hydraulic applications where it's important to know when the filter "bypasses" so you know when to change it.
The Baldwin B2 is the (spin-on) filter for the Y-block with the adapter.
If you check the link above, you'll see that it has an 8psi bypass limit. That means you could probably put a 15psi (differential) gage on it and tell exactly when it bypasses.
It really doesn't matter though......I would venture to guess that every one of us changes the oil WAY BEFORE the differential pressure on the filter even approaches 8 psi!
This is of course in a fully warmed up engine. I am also willing to bet that every one running straight weight oils is getting a "bypass" EVERY TIME they start their Y's when cold.....AND it probably does it with the multi-grades too!! (That's the other reason for the bypass. .... when your 30wt oil is cold, it's thick .......thicker than when hot.....so to prevent damage to the filter media, the bypass valve is open until the oil thins out.
If anyone wants to prove this, put a differential gage on your engine. When the pressure gets to around 8PSI (with the Baldwin) the bypass will open....You could also use a differential pressure switch
Differential gages and switches are pretty expensive....I'll just trust the bypass valve to open when it should.
Many people choose oil and oil filters (brand/manufacturer) based on anecdotal "evidence"....."My Dad used it", My "pet" mechanic recommended it, The guy at the service station suggested it, the guy with the most posts on my favorite discussion board said it's "better"..........
I use Baldwin because they can provide ALL the filters (Fuel, air, oil, trans, cabin-air) for my GM 6.5L diesel, diesel JD mower, gas JD tractor, new Honda CR-V, VW Jetta diesel, Mercruiser 7.4L V-8, AND my Y-block!! ..........ONE STOP SHOPPING!
They're all pretty much equivalent.
Cheers,
Rick
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1955 F-600 // D I S C L A I M E R: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I RAN OVER INTENTIONALLY!!! (RESISTANCE IS FUTILE) 73 de Rick
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