1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
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If you didn't use the parking brake, or engaged it while the tranny was in park (or left in gear if manual), the driveshaft may be holding the vehicle in place. To relieve the tension, make sure the tires are blocked securely (so it can't roll either direction), then put the tranny in neutral. The truck may wiggle some, thats normal.
Then use a pry bar, lube, BFH, etc... and it should come off. If using BFH, only tap on the flange or U-joint, don't dent the shaft itself.
Like they said before, block the rear wheels and put the truck in neutral to help get any tension off of the driveshaft. Then get you a hammer (plastic or brass is preferable) and tap on the flange part with moderate force and it should start to move a little till and you should be able to get it to "pop" off. I had to do this when I replaced my u-joints a few months ago. Just be careful not to hit the driveshaft with the hammer.
02 F150 2WD 4.2L V6 M5R2 named "Spaz" thanks to the psycho instrument cluster.
Ok I think I have confused people. The shaft is only bolted in the rear with four bolts to the rear end. The drive shaft wont come off the rear end though
You got me conused. The normal way to pull the shaft is to take off two U bolts, 4 nuts, that hold the Ujoints firmly seated against the yolk. Then pry wiggle beat the shaft back a bit to get the ujoints out of their position so the entire shaft drops down and then slides towards the back. Is this what you are trying to do?
A lot of the 8.8" rear axles that I've seen (my truck included) have the rear u-joint pressed into a flange that then uses four bolts to attach to the pinion flange on the rear differential. What the u-joints press into looks similar to this.
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