I'm confused?

If the grease goes into the open area that the vacuum is pulled for the esof how does it get into the bearing.

From what I understand the grease is injected into the abs sensor hole?

Ok at least I admit I don't understand how the grease flows through the abs hole and into the bearing.

But if it does work this would be almost like the mod I did on my boat trailer in the 70's when I put a grease fitting between the two bearings.

I am open on this one.

 

So does the bearing have to come off of the truck or can you leave it in place and just pull out the abs sensor and push grease into it. Thanks.

 

First of all; I was a mechanic before they came out with ABS but the abs ring with the teeth on it sits between the 2 roller bearings and I imagine the teeth ground a signal from the sensor therefore recording the speed of the wheel as it speeds up and slows down while braking (Just my theory). I think the grease in there acts like dialectric grease in that it permits the impulses through. The "tone ring" (abs ring) is right in there with the bearings so Ford inadvertently had to have a hole there for the sensor. I'm not sure if the esof air pulses go through the bearing area of the hub but mine works fine with a whole mini-tube of grease in it. I am sure a hole could easily be drilled through the hub if one doesn't have abs.

 

Depends on what you want to do.

There are two different bearings in this hub assembly, and each does different things.

The first is the main wheel bearings, which are not normally greaseable. Those are the ones that we shoot grease at through the ABS sensor hole. The hub does not have to be removed to do that, just the brake caliper. I do these every year because the weight of the truck sits on these bearings.

The second are the needle bearings. They are what supports the "stub axle" which is the drive axle from the U-joint outwards into the hub lock assembly. To lube those the entire assembly has to come off the truck. Study this to get an idea of what's involved:
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/nblube.php

These get greased every 60,000 miles. Only the inner part of the stub axle is supported by these.

There is yet another bearing in these assemblies, and it's located in the hub locking mechanism, and occasionally needs re-packing, too. Here's how to do that one:
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/allube.php

It supports the outer part of the stub axle.

Pop

 

Thank you for the response it is appreciated.

 

Just looked I don't have the factory hubs anymore. I threw them out and went with Warn Premiums. Guess I don't have to worry about that part. LOL

 

If I remember correctly you would have to hack up the heat sheild and struggle to get at it, and not sure if you actually could. It is probably easier to take the whole thing off so you can see what you are doing since you are almost at that point anyway. Also; I would recommend greasing the needle bearing at the same time which would require a hub removal. No point in just servicing half of it. If your main hub bearing goes out you are talking a new wheel hub and if the needle bearing part goes out it could take the stub axle with it. I filled the whole cavity with grease (1 mini-tube) and have suffered no ill effects. No bad lights, no leakage, etc.

 

The tone wheel "teeth" do not make contact with the ABS sensor at all. They do not complete a path to ground by touching the wheel.

The sensor is what's called a "Hall Effect Device", which is a transistor that is sensitive to the close presence or absence of ferreous material. The wire that comes out of it thus carries a square-wave signal with a frequency that varies proportionately to the speed of the hub's rotation. If you were to hook earphones to that wire while the hub was turning you would hear a "tone", thus the term "tone wheel".

The Cam Position Sensor is another Hall-Effect Device which reads another rotating wheel. So is the VSS in the rear differential, as are the shaft-speed sensors in the transmission case.

Pop

 

Correction:

You still have the factory HUBS, you have just replaced the hub LOCK assemblies. Though they are commonly referred to as "hubs" they are only the locking mechanism.

You still have all the bearings to worry about keeping lubed.

Pop

 

I knew they didn't touch but it appeared as if they made some kind of an impulse beween the two which monitored the speed. That invention wasn't heard of when I used to work on vehicles. The grease doesn't appear to hinder it's activity.

 

This Technology has been around for pretty close to 30 years are so, first seen (in automotive) was used in point less ignition systems.

 

Looks like I will be greasing the needle bearing than as well. Thanks guys.

 

Hell, I am about to shell out $531.00 to replace my left side wheel bearings, Last night on I-5 it seized up and almost ran into the lane divider. Had to tow to local shop, since driving the truck was out of the picture..

 

Holy out of control Batman!! Sorry to here that BIG, but glad to here you keep her off the wall.

 

thanks, it was bit nerve racking while it was taking place, but calmed him down in the nick of time, it was sad to see my boy sitting on the back of a flat bed, got pics for memories..on the bright side the state trooper was very cool and I get the truck back today