When you disconnect the steering shaft just make the steering wheel is straight ahead. More than likely when you put everything back together the steering wheel will not be centered any longer. Just adjust the drag link length to center the steering wheel.

 

thanks monster, i got it pretty darn close to center, i noticed though when i had my wheels turned all the way and the front hubs locked one wheel would sping the other would not (front u joint for stub axle, I picked them up last night im about to eat some bacon and go tackle that.

Puttting the plley on the pumpo was a nite mare, somebody did not design it right, I had a shop do it and they blew the back out of the pump, now i hope ford can help me out with a return.

Getting the pitman arm off was near impossible as well, all the pitman pullers avalible do not cover the large pitman arm that super lift provides, un real....

Anyway thats all done and feels great, VERY TIGHT, now if i do the u joints i think it will get even better!

kenny

 

Yah, my wheel didn't go back to dead center either, need an alignment anyway...

Dave

 

Not sure why I didn't think of this before but I made the write-up a PDF. Should make it easy to print out so no more need to take the laptop in the garage.

Red Head Steering Box Installed.pdf

 

Hi Mike,
Thanks for sharing your pdf write-up. I'll be printing it out at the office today.

Cheers,

 

First, let me thank all of you for all th einfo you've put on here. This is Awesome. Wish I had joined in long ago before I started having problems.
Anyway, I have a 05, 6 litre and last year the steering got real stiff. It wouldn't return to center after turning and made it a nitemare to drive. I could literally go to a big parking lot, turn the wheel in either direction, put it in drive and it would go in circles until I made it stop. I ended up replacing the gbox and it was fine for about 6 months. It's started getting stiff again (the steering) and the unfriendly folks at Power Steering Pros in CA. didn't want to honor their warranty on the box I bought from them. They keep telling me it's the pump and because I'm not a "certified mechanic" they won't listen to me. So, I played along an replaced the pump. It's better but still a little stiff. Is it advisable to loosen the adjustment bolt on the box to get some of that out, or should I pursue another option. All the ball joints are good and the front end was aligned when the gbox was installed.

Thanks in advance,
Tim

 

Honestly it sounds like ball joints. The ball joints can show no signs of play and still be bad. Look at the post 114 and play the video. Those ball joints only have about 12K miles on them, show no signs of play but as you can see they are very stiff causing memory steer. It could also be u-joints but usually they bind a create more of a stuck feeling and not a stiff feeling. When they do bind they will then all of a sudden free up creating a jerking feeling to the steering input.

Here is what I would do. Jack up the front of the truck and put it on jack stands. Take the wheels off and then on one side disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle. Turn the knuckle back and forth. It should turn freely and pretty much flop back and forth easily. If that side checks out reconnect the tie rod and move to the other side and repeat the process.

If one side or the other (or both) is very stiff, remove the drive axle and check its motion and the knuckle. One or both should be stiff or binding. Replace ball joints and/or u-joints as needed. Post back when you get a chance to dig into it on what you find.

Oh BTW welcome to FTE!

 

Thanks Monster-4!! I'll check them out again. Initially, I took it to my buddies in town at the 4x4 shop and they ruled out the ball joints and honestly, all I did when I checked, was for wiggle, when I had it up on the stands. Yesterday, after I posted that post, I got bored and decided to go get some Sea Foam Trans Tune and try it, along with flushing the system. Anyway, I flushed it and it helped some. It's still a little stiff but not anything like it was. I may get out today and try what you mentioned as well just because I can't stand for something to not work like it is supposed to.

Thanks for the help and response. I didn't expect anyone it so soon.

Thanks for the

 

No problem. Post back what you find.

 

I tried what you mentioned. I unhooked the tie rod and the knuckle swung free. It wasn't overly loose but it wasn't hindered at all. A few weeks ago we unhooked the pitman arm and both wheels moved freely. The stiffness was still there when turning the steering wheel, without the pitman arm hooked up. Like I said, it's better than it was but it's still a little stiff and won't straighten out after turning in either direction. I also locked the hub and turned the wheel and it the U joint turned, no problem. It seems its between the steering wheel and the pitman. Maybe I got a bad box from those guys in CA. They refused to honor their warranty even though it's only been 6 months and it has year warranty as long as it was installed according to their directions. and it was. Since it now has a brand new pump on it, I might just fight them on getting a new box. Your thoughts?

Thanks SO Much for the help!!!
Tim

 

Definitely fight for a new box. People talk big when they are selling but run and hide when it's back it up time. Don't let them get away with it. ..BBB cons affairs, etc

 

Sounds like you did your home work on narrowing down the problem. If both knuckles turn freely and the stiffness is only when connected to the steering box then it's either in the steering shaft (not to likely but possible) or in the steering box.
Have you explained to the place you bought the steering box from all that you did and found so far? What do they suggest is the problem after all that you have told them you did?
At this point I would be fighting for my money back and try another manufacturer (like Red Head) rather then continue to mess with a company that has no intentions of helping you.

 

Ditto. Explain nicely, all that you have checked out and how you have eliminated every other possibility. Do it in writing. If you get no response or if you get denied a warranty claim, review their written warranty and inform them, in writing, of the fact that you have not voided the warranty and will be seeking small claims court action to recover your money plus fees.

Those three little words "small claims court" when used wisely, at the right time can work magic.

I once had to use small claims court to recover losses from an insurance company that claimed they replace a motor with "like kind and quality". Six months down the road, I discovered the put in a motor that had 100,000 miles more than the vehicle. I tried nice guy first and they didn't budge so I took them to small claims court. I got a judgement in my favor for the loss of vehicle value and a nice check within two weeks.

Use it only as a last resort though.

 

Also, call the guys at Red Head and see if they can provide you with additional testing advice to confirm it is the box. They are nice guys there.

 

I have about 5 degrees or so of play (or backlash is the correct term) between the time I engage the wheel from steering the tires from one direction to the other. I tightened the adjustment screw on top of the steering box and it definitly made the steering tighter - that is, it made it harder to turn through the backlash, but the backlash is still there.

My dad and I both looked under the truck last weekend while the other cranked the wheel back and forth through this 5 degree range - we both agreed the input shaft was moving before the output responded.

So I guess I am just looking for confirmation from someone that the adjustment screw is to adjust drag or friction, not to reduce backlash.