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  #106  
Old 03-08-2011, 06:58 AM
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Furian Furian is offline
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Well, I found a better (and cheaper) way to go than the ORU kit. The ORU kit attaches to the front differential cover with the supplied bracket. I have already purchased the Mag-Hytec front differential cover but it needed to be modified for the bracket. ORU offered to exchange my stock Mag-Hytec cover for their modified Mag-Hytec cover, which was nice of them. However, the cost of the kit is still expensive at close to $1,200.00 after the core charge.

PSC Motorsports make a kit for the Super Duty that sells for $507.07. This kit does not attach to the front differential so I can use my stock Mag-Hytec differential cover. For the $507.07 price, PSC Motorsports will modify (port) your steering box. In short, I can get a quality kit for less than 1/2 of what the ORU kit costs.

06-08 Ford Truck Cylinder Assist Kit-SKR500 : Cylinder Assist Steering System Kits, Ford Cylinder Assist Steering Systems | PSC Motorsports - performance steering components

Click the image to open in full size.

However, I'm thinking of having Red Head Steering rebuild my steering box then having PSC Motorsports modify (port) it for their kit or visa versa.
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  #107  
Old 03-08-2011, 10:06 AM
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That looks nice. Wish they made one for the 99-04 trucks.
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Red Head Steering gear box installation
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  #108  
Old 03-25-2011, 03:41 PM
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is anyone replaceing the steering box with the red-head box because they are getting the front end wobble as well? and if so has that helped the issue?
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  #109  
Old 03-25-2011, 04:54 PM
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It helped my wobble alot. Then I added a moog steering stabilizer and it fixed it for good.
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My V10 will out pull your PSD any day of the week,
If its close to stock and of the same age as my V10.

My IDI can't out pull anything.
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  #110  
Old 03-26-2011, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill11012 View Post
It helped my wobble alot. Then I added a moog steering stabilizer and it fixed it for good.
I have a fabtech lift with dual stabilizers and the wc motorsports track bar. the bar helped but then it recently started again. drag link needs replacing even though it was done last summer. there is alot of play in steering box now. it wanders all over the place. trying to see what my best option is
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  #111  
Old 03-26-2011, 02:30 PM
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If the box is loose I would start there. Front tires are the other thing. Mine seems really sensitive to an off balance front tire.
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My V10 will out pull your PSD any day of the week,
If its close to stock and of the same age as my V10.

My IDI can't out pull anything.
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  #112  
Old 04-22-2011, 09:47 PM
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Received my redhead yesterday and got 'er in today. The write-up at the begining of this thread helped tremendously. I had the laptop on the bench I'm new to the super-dutys so I was starting from scratch ie. had to figure out air box removal...

The steering is now tight as ever and the truckis much more enjoyable to drive.

I'll throw in a little from my experiance today:
One should be prepared to replace the bolts which hold the steering box to frame, mine were super corroded and were hard winding out/ in, I'll replace with proper bolts sooner than later.

The pitman arm is on real good. A puller is a must. I tried rigging up in my shop press and no luck...even at 5 tons on the gage. I borrowed a puller, cranked the h*ll out of it with my breaker bar. Remove breaker bar and hit the the puller screw with a bfh. It finally let go....since today is a holiday and nothings open, i was very pleased to say the leased.

Again, 1000 thank-yous for the write-up! If i knew how to give reps, i would!

Dave
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  #113  
Old 04-22-2011, 11:19 PM
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Thanks and glad to hear the install went smooth!
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Red Head Steering gear box installation
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  #114  
Old 05-26-2011, 02:50 PM
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A small update. The Red Head is still doing great but I had a pretty significant memory steer issue. This weekend I removed the tie rod from each knuckle and I found out the drivers side was stiff. I replaced the ball joints 23K miles and 3 1/2 years ago but the upper ball joint was bad. It was either defective to begin with or went bad sometime soon after installation. Below is a (crappy) video I took. I replaced the lower ball joint as well since I damaged it getting it out to replaced the upper one.
I only drove the truck about 20 miles since doing this but it drivers considerably better and easier. I didn't notice before how much effort to took to turn the wheel.

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  #115  
Old 05-27-2011, 11:35 AM
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ALL.... I read this thread and have recently ordered a new red head steering gear and new PS pump, starting to replace all of this later on this afternoon. I already loosened the track bar bolts (i have new bushings for that) and cracked loose the mounting bolts for the old steering gear, I also cracked the flare nuts loose as well. I have new high pressure lines as my old were leaking. My original problem was the steering was acting funny, it ends up that it was just a low fluid situation I think. The wheel would not return to center and do all sorts of funky stuff.

I know with the read head this will feel much better. I am a little scared as this is the first time I ever done anything with steering.

I replaced tie rods and drag link about a month ago, so thats nice new stuff....

My question is do you all remove the pitman arm AFTER the box is off the truck, to do it on the truck would require removing the track bar bracket and i sort of did not want to do that.

Red head explained they sent the box being pre-centered all i have to do is mount it. I just need to make sure I get the pitman arm on there right and then the other end of the box needs to go to the wheel in the right spot. I do not want to mis-align anything.

For being the first time doing this I am keeping the article written close at hand, along with the ford manuals... but is there any tips and tricks I should know about?

I have a 2003 F250 4x4 with 37" tires and 6" superlift.
thanks, Kenny
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  #116  
Old 05-27-2011, 12:34 PM
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Yes remove the steering box first and then remove the pitman arm. It's really the only way unless, like you said, you want to remove the track bar. Even doing that the pitman arm is on there pretty tightly. I had mine mounted by the pitman arm in a vise and cranked down on the puller with an air wrench and it still took a few blows with hammer to get it to pop off. I wouldn't want to manage this while the steering box was still mounted on the truck.

I unfortunately didn't get any pics of this process. As you can tell I took the pics after the work was done. Since it was just me I didn't want to risk getting the camera dirty and my hands were covered with dirt, grease, fluid, etc.

A few tips. Make sure you wind the seat belt through the steering wheel. This will make sure it stays centered and you don't run the risk of damaging the clock springs in the steering wheel.
Another tip is inspect closely the rubber donut that is at the end of the steering shaft. Make sure it's not brittle or torn. If it is replace the lower steering shaft.
One final tip is when getting the steering shaft back on to the input shaft of the steering box be prepared to battle with it a bit. It took be a little bit to get it back on and was properly the only time I got frustrated. In the pic I have an arrow to the part I found the best to tap with a hammer to get it back on.

Hope this helps and don't be worried. It's pretty easy job. If you have any more questions post back or when you get the job done.
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  #117  
Old 05-27-2011, 04:14 PM
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Mines still tight and lovely!
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  #118  
Old 05-27-2011, 06:22 PM
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Mine's been super tight since '00......................guess I got lucky (150k miles)
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  #119  
Old 05-27-2011, 10:40 PM
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Yep guess you did.
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  #120  
Old 05-28-2011, 06:44 AM
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Hi all.... monster 4x4 thanks for the info.... the rubber thing you are talking about is that at the end of the shaft that allows the smaller (lower shaft) to slide into it towards the steering column, those parts all seem ok, but ill take another look.

WHAT A PITA the steering pump pulley was, they say to pull it off and re-use it - uh yeah right, i bent the living snot out of it just getting it off, heat and penetrating oil, and finally i got it. Then last night the only place that had a pully was an hour away, i am about to get back in there and finish up today.

Also.... the pitman arm, wholly smokes thats on there.... Every puller i bought did not fit over the pitman arm so i had to bring it to a shop and get it pressed off.... SOB i should have bought a new pitman arm haha.well maybe not they are like 100 bux.

So i mounted the new pitman arm with the air gun, then torqued it to 210 ft lbs, they ask for 199

I am afraid that I do not have everything perfectly centered i know the pitman arm is on the shaft right, (it only allowes you to mount it in 90 degree ways) but the box to the steering shaft is where i might get it alittle off, any way to make sure i got that right?

Anyway, back to work i go, trying to get this all done i have to cut trees!

thank yiu
kenny
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:44 AM
 
 
 
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