94 ranger dies leaving walmart lol!

[orangebanzai]

not to trouble ya'll but I figured out what the part above was.........its an EGR tranducer, and the dangling hose came loose from the lower egr tube connection..geesh! Hey PawPaw- so far have taken off fuel pressure regulator, and gas shoots out over fender wells when i kwank the engine (dont have a fuel pressure tester with schrader connector yet) with koeo i get 12v at injector connection...having problem with the test light kit, the ford tpi is too big, assume i can use geo or borshe if their pins fit??? also had my electronic control module tested at Advance Auto and it checked out ok... now need to check if plug wires are getting any current! thanks for your help..........

[pawpaw]

OK, good feedabck, so you have 12 volts to the injectors at KOEO.

Too bad the noid light adapter doesn't fit your injectors wiring harness.
If your in a hurry, you could rig an analog multimter, set to the 20vdc scale & wire it in series with the injectors wiring harness, then crank the engine to see if the computer is supplying ground switching. If it is, the meter movement should pulse in time with the ground switching pulse.

You can usually find a fuel pressure gauge in most autparts store's "Loan-A-Tool" program, for a refundable deposit.

When you removed the fuel pressure regulator, did you find any fuel in it's vacuum line???? If so the reglators diaphragm is bad, replace the regulator.

Have you used your timing light to verify the plugs are firing & the spark timing is right????

[orangebanzai]

well i'm back! lol!...been too damn hot to work on truck, I did my fuel pressure test at the schrader value and got 38 psi, believe i should get between 35-42 for an average....
so tomorrow with it in the high 80's gonna do the spark test..
Pawpaw, since i wont be able to ask what to do -IF- until late nite or the next day, what if??
if i am getting spark to plugs, what next?
if i dont get spark to plugs, any suggestions?
what normally gets wacked when u break a timing belt?
would it have messed up the crack sensor, dont think the belt even touches it in any way?
auto zone guy said my good test of my ecm module (by advance auto)
should have been checked 2-3 times, for better accurate results...
well thanks guys for any helpful things to try next...

[luthrobediesel]

Hey man, if your crank sensor got effed when the belt broke, your fuel pump would only run for the 2 seconds when you turn the key on. The ecm waits for a crank signal to turn it back on. If you turn the key on you will hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds. Somehow you need to see if the fuel pump runs while cranking, by listening or by relieving pressure on the gauge then crank without returning key to off position. Btw, I have a 97 ranger with the 2.3 and it has 354,000 miles on it. I love it to death.

[pawpaw]

Well use your timing light to safely detemine if it has spark & if so, is the ignition timing right.

If it doesn't, then check the crank sensor for output when the engine is turned over.

If it does have spark, then determine if the fuel injectors are getting ground switching by the computer. If you've still not been able to get a injector fit on the noid light to determine this, maybe use a stethoscope to listen to the injectors while a helper cranks the engine. If you don't hear a "click" then the computer isn't supplying injector ground switching for some reason.

Could be the cam sensor, a wiring or computer problem.

So since you said you've recently replaced the cam sensor, maybe pull it's electrical connector & check the sensor for continuity. If thats ok, then back probe the sensor & measure it's output, while someone cranks the engine. If it has output at the sensor, back probe the sensors wire at the computers firewall electrical connector, to see if it's making it that far.

More thoughts for consideration.

[orangebanzai]

Hello Pawpaw, thanks for answering back..
gonna get timing light tomorrow..got me a remote starter control the other day, since i am usually by myself while working on truck..
sorry, if you thought i had new cam sensor, but no its the original...
i did my electronic control module 2 yrs ago...
cant believe had complicated this is getting LOL!
i would think everything would be alright, just belt broke. i did have one big backfire on truck when i tried to start it the day after walmart experience..would that mess up the injectors?
well i will hang in there and try to fix this green ranger beast. except FORD dealer would had it back to me weeks ago! lol ! minus 200- 1000 bucks most likely
thanks PawPaw

[orangebanzai]

hello everyone......
as i stated in earlier note, advance auto said my ecm checked out ok.....that was several weeks ago, and i have been diognosing other areas of truck...
well i was in auto zone the other day, and one of the employees asked if the test on my ecm was done a least 3 times, in order to heat up unit etc...
so today for the hell of it i took ecm off again and had it tested at auto zone, it failed all 3 times...got new one coming in tomorrow...i even said to the guy testing the ecm ' you know, i kinda hope it fails'... tired of the troubleshooting.......LOL ! well if truck fires up tomorrow i am gonna drink a budwiser (1) and smoke me a cigar to celebrate!!! lol ! if it doesnt fire up....
i am gonna set off my mini-nuke! dad-burn-it!!
well wish me luck!!!!!!!

[MikeB 88]

I hope that works for you. If it does, I'd give the first tester at Auto Zone a piece of your mind for causing all this hardship. If he'd tested the ECM several times, it's possible you could've been enjoying the truck instead of working on it.

[orangebanzai]

this is funny....autozone even today said ecm failed; but o'reilly's today said it passed its 3 tests...when new one came in this afternoon at autozone, we tested new one, then mine and it passed this time......
enough to make one insane! lol !
so i did spark test and have NO spark from plug...
looking at my crank sensor now i guess...

[pawpaw]

OK, so now you have two positive trouble shoot feedbacks. no spark & at least a question about the old computer, somtimes it checks ok, sometimes not, so what part of the test was the old computer failing????

Did you ever check to determine if the computer was supplying ground switching for the fuel injectors & that they are indeed firing????

The computer should be able to fire the plugs by using input from the cam sensor in it's "limp home mode", so if it's not doing that, then you have a third posiive trouble shooting input.

Lastly, I'm not clear, was this "no spark" test done with the new, or old computer in the vehicle????

Very Good idea to bench test the new computer imo.
I always have the store bench check electricals before I leave with them, because most won't accept a used electrical return & sometimes we've found bad new parts right out of the box!!!!.

[orangebanzai]

hey Pawpaw
i left autozone with my OLD ecm since it checked ok after we tested the new one that came in (and o'reilly's passed also); the clerk will hang on to it if i decide to go for the new one.
i suppose if it maybe is finicky i should get that new one and use old one for backup, just trying to save 130 bucks.
i did the spark plug test where you pull plug and lay on engine and crack,,,got nothing.
never got the NOID bulbs (tried all that would fit the size of the ranger plug) to light up.
i am at point of taking crank sensor (dont think i have a cam sensor, dont see it ) off (?? when i figure it out);
but then what, can autozone check them also, know he said they sell them...
anyway thanks Pawpaw for your help...appreciate very much........Orange

[pawpaw]

You don't need a Noid light to detemine if the fuel injectors are firing, if you'll just listen to the injector with a stethoscope when you crank the engine. You should hear the injector click if it's getting computer ground switching.

I don't know about your spark test, if the spark plug boot wasn't pulled back, or if the wire was too far enough away from a ground, it might not spark, so thats why I suggested using an inductive type timing light, it's safer & danged near fool proof, if it flashes, you have spark!!!!
So right now I'm in doubt about your spark test.

You have a cam sensor & thats what the computer uses to trigger the injectors & it can also use it to fire the plugs, if the crank sensor fails (limp home mode), so if you don't have a crank signal, you should still have spark, if the computer is ok.

The crank sensor is an inductive type, so you should be able to measure a milivolts output on it while crankng the engine. Or be able to measure ohms through it's coil on a continuity test.
Do a site search for the numbers.

[orangebanzai]

howdy.......
well i got my timing light ...no light or spark at plug wires.....
changed out all fuses, and tested diode and relays
so now i am looking at crankshaft postion sensor.
if i'm looking at this correctly, in order to replace it i may have to remove the back of the plastic timing belt housing! this may mean i have to undue my timing belt and take off at least the oil pulley gear!
holly squat!
damn sensor wiring runs up behind the plastic housing between it and engine block,,,were Ford engineers drunk? i was on youtube and many makes of cars you can go straight to sensor and change it out. geez!
fun-in-the-sun! lol! later !

[pawpaw]

OK, good feedback, no spark with the timing light, so now go back to the coilpack & pull it's electrical connector & double check that you have +12vdc to it's electrical connetor at KOEO.

Again, if the computers ground switching is working & the coilpack has 12 volts to it & the coilpack's windings & wires to the computer are ok, the coil pack should make spark, even if the crank sensor isn't working, as the computer can use the cam sensor to trigger the coil pack in it's "limp home mode" & if the crank sensor was open, you'd likely have a trouble code for it.

So if the injectors are clicking, the cam sensor is working & it's output is making it into the computer.

Then that would leave you looking for 12 volts to the coilpack at KOEO & the computer providing ground switching for the coilpack when you crank the engine.

All of that can be tested for with a multimeter on the right pin/socket of the colpacks wire harness electrical connectior.

If you don't have 12 volts to the coilpack at KOEO, or computer ground switching when cranking the engine, then back up to the computers firewall electrical connector & probe for the missing thing there. If you find the missing thing there, then you have an open circuit between the coilpack & the compuers firewall electrical connector.

If you have 12 volts to the coilpack, but no ground switching at the firewall connector, then there is likely a problem between the firewall connctor & computer, or with the computer itself.

Take the time to do some more testing, I think your about to find the culprit.

[orangebanzai]

Howdy again!
ok,
i got a stethoscope and cranked engine and got zero noise from injectors ( i think #1 clicked once or twice, but no more, not sure cause was just starting)
ON connectors to coilpacks i got 12.2 vdc on each one
ON testing ECM connectors (top incoming plug had 11.7 vdc, bottom connector from ECm that hooks up to crank shaft sensor plug also had 11.7.
For the hell of it i took ecm back to oreily's to have them test the unit again.....3 passes on machine and it gave me a green light that its OK...now how trust worthy these test machines are ??
so what u think, if no clinking of injectors, is that crank sensor or bad ECm........ha!
thanks for any info!