hey Mikeb 88
well been at it last several days...i have pulled everything (therostat, waterpump, heater hoses (gonna replace heater core), timing belt housing etc
now i am stuck at , got timing belt mostly threaded now, but cant move the timing belt tension spring to ease up tension so i can totally place the new belt in all locations....manual said use a tension belt lever available at most auto stores (wrong, checked them all), or i can try and use pry levers...i cant get a bite to ease tension .........
any ideas??
Have you loosened up the two bolts on the tensioner???
You were to do that, to move the tensioner & loosn belt tension, then tighten the tensioner retaining bolt, to hold the tensioner in the relaxed position, before removing the old belt!!!!
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99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
Details are trifles but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle
(Ben Franklin)
Our signature is a sign of a job completed autograph your work with excellence
hi pawpaw
well the belt was busted as i suspected, so i didnt have to release any bolts to take off belt, now i cant get enough loose to put belt on all pulleys, let alone bring in tensioner to tighten the belt once on all pulleys etc....
its holding up progress thats fer sure!
hi pawpaw
well the belt was busted as i suspected, so i didnt have to release any bolts to take off belt, now i cant get enough loose to put belt on all pulleys, let alone bring in tensioner to tighten the belt once on all pulleys etc....
its holding up progress thats fer sure!
OK, so the timing belt was broken before you removed it, so are you now saying that you can't loosen the belt tensioner bolts, to move it aside to relieve tension, or that you just can't figure out how to get enough leverage on the tension pully, to gain enough slack to get the belt on????
On my 1.7L Renault timing belt replacement, I routed the tming belt over all of the toothed pulleys, then used a putty knife lubed with talc powder, between the tensioner & the back side of the belt, as a lever, to slip it onto the walless tensioner pully. So maybe you could do/rig something like that, if you can't get the tensioner bolts loose to move it.
Once I got the belt started onto the idler, the talc made it easier to slip it fully on.
More thoughts for pondering.
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99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
Details are trifles but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle
(Ben Franklin)
Our signature is a sign of a job completed autograph your work with excellence
On my 1.7L Renault timing belt replacement, I routed the tming belt over all of the toothed pulleys, then used a putty knife lubed with talc powder, between the tensioner & the back side of the belt, as a lever, to slip it onto the walless tensioner pully. So maybe you could do/rig something like that, if you can't get the tensioner bolts loose to move it.
Once I got the belt started onto the idler, the talc made it easier to slip it fully on.
More thoughts for pondering.
That's one trick I'll have to file away for future use.
well I finally got the timing belt on all the pulleys, had to use pry bar jammed between oil pulley and tension roller...
ok, have had crank pulley chuck key at 12 oclock high, and camshaft pulley timing marks lined up, oh and what i believe is TDC on piston 1....
not having any luck on engine starting, cranks just fine, no clacking noises etc lol!....wonder what my next step should be?
well I finally got the timing belt on all the pulleys, had to use pry bar jammed between oil pulley and tension roller...
ok, have had crank pulley chuck key at 12 oclock high, and camshaft pulley timing marks lined up, oh and what i believe is TDC on piston 1....
not having any luck on engine starting, cranks just fine, no clacking noises etc lol!....wonder what my next step should be?
Well seeing as how this is a non-interference engine, the valves shouldn't be bent, but since it was running before the timing belt broke & the last thing messed with has been the timing belt & you "think" you got it back on right, I'd do a compression check, as that would tell you if the valve tming is right.
If that checks out ok, then do a fuel pressure, spark & spark timng test.
By then you should have an idea whats wrong.
Let us know how it goes.
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99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
Details are trifles but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle
(Ben Franklin)
Our signature is a sign of a job completed autograph your work with excellence
greetings ford-ites!
well its been near 100' off and on the last week, so you can imagine I said 'hell no to working in drive -way on my ranger.
did manage to put timing belt on, line up timing marks,made sure #1 piston was at top-dead-center.
did the compression test today (only 94', ha)
1- 150
2-142
3-153
4-160
so like now i should see if my firing order is correct..
really dont know how to do that, looked at manual etc;
the engine cranked and sounds just fine, but no start.
checked engine bay fuses also.
guess i need to see if plugs are getting any spark.
can hear fuel pump gin up for the 2 sec thang.
well any suggestions would be appreciated.
now even my motorcycle is getting sluggy, dam mit!
cbr600 f2 ... later
So if you had fuel & fire it should have started, or at least tried to start.
Well if you have an inductive type timing light, hook it up to plug one & see if you have spark & if the spark timing is right.
If thats ok, then check to see if you have +12 volts to the injectors wiing harness at KOEO.
If so then hook up a noid light in the injectors harness to see if it'll blink when you crank the engine & that'll tell you if the computer is supplying an injector ground pulse, to fire the fuel injectors.
If so, then do a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail schrader valve & post the readings.
__________________
99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
Details are trifles but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle
(Ben Franklin)
Our signature is a sign of a job completed autograph your work with excellence
ok got my noid light test kit this afternoon, will check out this evening hopefully.
have a question about something else...
dont have a clue what it is, a silver box with 3 hoses coming out of it, it is located in same location of wiper motor on driver side but is on passenger side.
one hose connects to hose that runs length of lip over the firewall
one hose goes to what looks like tube from exhaust to intake
and the HOSE that i am concerned about is long and was not connected to anything....is it correct for it to just hang and not be connected to any port etc???????
oh the part number on silver case read...
f37e-3j460-aa
looked for it in hayes manual, found nothing,,,
anywho...thanks!
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connected to any port etc???????
