i just would like to stay close to the stock motor with a little more power dont know why just somethin i want to do but thanks for the thoughts any way i could go another way guy i met before has a 351 he had rebuilt and doesnt need it i figure he spent round 2-3 grand on the motor only wants 500 for it i would need to change the cam full on racing motor for a mustang he had and got rid of guy who built it says it would run 12's in the quarter might be somethin ta think about
will a stock regulator work with bigger injectors (like going from 19 to 24 lb injectors) or will I need a diffirent regulator?
You can't put bigger injectors on an EFI motor without reprogramming... period, the computer needs to know what components it's working with to make accurate calculations. And using these means you need more fuel delivery capacity so plan on a booster pump or upgrades to the existing pump/s.
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Paul O
1990 F150 4x4 XLT X-Cab 5.0, 3.55, Comp 35-349-8, Flowtech LT's to 3" single, FRPP Mass Air Conversion
Under construction: '85 351HO, Dart Iron Eagles, 1.6 RR, Typhoon intake, Crane 444232, 24lb Injectors, TweecerRT, Innovate LC-1 wideband O2
1990 Ranger 2wd, 2.3 Briggs & Stratten, 5-speed, 3.08 gears, and now power steering!!
the blocks out of a 89 and its with just the parts for the motor itself i would have 2 grand in it without the heads and machine work.
If the motor is running you can get all the parts needed for a rebuild for well under a $1000.. bearings, gaskets, new pistons and rings, cam, timing set, and some machine work. Add some GT40 heads or whatever else you can find for a good price, carb and intake and you're done at under $2k. There's absolutely no need for a new rotating assembly here the stock parts are very good, just have the machine shop prep the crank and rods and machine the block as necesary.
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Paul O
1990 F150 4x4 XLT X-Cab 5.0, 3.55, Comp 35-349-8, Flowtech LT's to 3" single, FRPP Mass Air Conversion
Under construction: '85 351HO, Dart Iron Eagles, 1.6 RR, Typhoon intake, Crane 444232, 24lb Injectors, TweecerRT, Innovate LC-1 wideband O2
1990 Ranger 2wd, 2.3 Briggs & Stratten, 5-speed, 3.08 gears, and now power steering!!
I have a tweecer, so reprogramming is not a problem. I am wondering if the stock fuel pressure regulator will provide enough pressure in the rail to fire the injectors, or do I need more pressure?
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95 F-150 5.8 4x4 E4OD, Now with OBDII & MAF!!!
The stock FPR will create 40psi at the rail no matter what injectors are on the motor, these parts don't affect one another. The fuel pump will have an effect on pressure when it reaches it's limit, and that may or may not coincide with the limits of the bigger injectors.. all pumps are different.
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Paul O
1990 F150 4x4 XLT X-Cab 5.0, 3.55, Comp 35-349-8, Flowtech LT's to 3" single, FRPP Mass Air Conversion
Under construction: '85 351HO, Dart Iron Eagles, 1.6 RR, Typhoon intake, Crane 444232, 24lb Injectors, TweecerRT, Innovate LC-1 wideband O2
1990 Ranger 2wd, 2.3 Briggs & Stratten, 5-speed, 3.08 gears, and now power steering!!
I don't know about the newer 351's but back in the day,the hot way to go was using 351 Cleveland heads on a 351 windsor and Edelbrach made an intake that fit.The Cleveland heads had ports and flow.If your going to a carb,this might be worth a little research with some of the 'ole boys.Just a thought from an old timer.
would you be talking about the 351C-4V heads or -2V, Buster? I know the 4V heads had HUGE ports, only because I've been in the situation to have recieved the wrong gasket set(s) for a 351-2V I owned...
I should have specified 4v heads,but even the 2v heads are an improvement over what used to be available for the w's.They are probably tough to find these days and I don't know if Edelbrach makes the intake anymore,but if you found them,they bring a windsor to a whole new level.
I have a tweecer, so reprogramming is not a problem. I am wondering if the stock fuel pressure regulator will provide enough pressure in the rail to fire the injectors, or do I need more pressure?
Put a fuel pressure gauge in the cab and watch what it does under heavy throttle conditions; if it falls, then you need more pressure.
In some cases, you can change the WOT fuel multipliers with the Tweecer instead, but you'll need a wideband to see how it affects the A/F ratios.
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Matt C.
Intercooled Vortech, Victor Jr. heads, roller cam, ARP hardware, Canton main girdle, FMS Mass Air and tuned with SCT software.
I should have specified 4v heads,but even the 2v heads are an improvement over what used to be available for the w's.They are probably tough to find these days and I don't know if Edelbrach makes the intake anymore,but if you found them,they bring a windsor to a whole new level.
There's a lot more to putting Cleveland heads on a Windsor than just changing intakes. The water jackets are different so there are some holes to drill and there are piston /valve clearance issues with the Windsor pistons.
The key word here is USED to be. Aftermarket aluminum heads will blow those Clevelands away. I'm not sure, but some of the GT's might as well.
Dual point distributors used to be the bomb. Why would you want one now? See what I mean?
410 said he was on a budget,aluminum heads are expensive and used is a big risk.I was just throwing some ideas out there,I didn't know all the details,that is why I said to research it,I only knew that it is doable.There are stock windsor heads and piston combinations using mixed years that have dangerous valve/piston clearances along with skyrocket compression ratios,so you have to do your homework on any build that isn't per year stock.I used to go for durability because I didn't have the money to rebuild every other week.I was more concerned about cutting my tires on Chebby rod bolt pieces than blowing my engine.Well anyway,I was just throwing out a thought,sometimes multiple ideas let a guy weigh things and be able to select the path he wants to go down.Your right,a dual pint distributor is pretty obsolete,but air flow,big valves or multiple valves,and hot spark are pretty much still desired.
410 said he was on a budget,aluminum heads are expensive and used is a big risk..
And where were you going to get those new Cleveland heads?
I'm really not trying to give you a hard time. It doesn't hurt to throw the options out, I was just pointing out that by the time you go through all the modifications, the end result isn't worth it, IMHO.
Think about it this way- custom pistons or machine shop work, header issues, specialized intake, machine shop work on those OLD heads, (when did they stop making them?)drilling holes... ect... Not to mention the cost of the heads themselves.
You can wind up spending as much as a good set of aftermarket heads for something that doesn't perform as well. They were good in the day, and flow is still the objective, but they don't deliver like the aftermarket ones will, and aren't really a budget option.
I know you wasn't trying to give me a hard time,you guys on here great,and surely more up to date on this stuff than I am.When I said used was a big risk,I meant aluminum heads,you can't magnaflux them for cracks,but there may be some new way to check them that I don't know about.Keep up the good work
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