1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

Starting issue - Batt. won't hold a charge - Alt. checks good

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Old 06-03-2009, 10:09 PM
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Starting issue - Batt. won't hold a charge - Alt. checks good

1992 E350 7.5L

Van sits for days at a time and than we drive it for a few days. Not a daily driver.

Battery will be dead when I get into the van after a few days. Takes 10-15 minutes on cables (good ones) with another vechicle before it will start. If I let it run for 1/2 hour or so batt. seems to charge.

If I turn off the van it won't start right away - no crank. If it sits for :15 minutes it will start, albeit a hard slow crank.

With all that being said, all the interior lights are bright as normal and the voltage meter seems on the low side, but still normal.

I did notice the other day driving; had rear ac fan on high as well as the front ac and the oil psi was all the way to the top of normal. Temp was perfect. When I turned off the rear fan the voltage and oil psi both jumped back into the normal range Other days the voltage meter will be pegged at the top of normal (maybe a bit higher).

So I give up, I got the voltage meter out. Batt. is at 12.2 setting there. And no parasite draw on it with key off and all accessories off. Engine running alternator is only putting out 12.5, ok bad alternator. Took it out and at AutoZone it checked out fine on the bench.

So alternator is good but it only shows 12.5vdc at the battery. Not enough to keep a good charge in it. Seems like there's enough voltage but not enough amps to really turn the engine over.

Van has always been a hard start even with a brand new batt. in it.

So what do you guys think? What's between the alternator and the battery besides a cable and the voltage guage? Anyone think maybe it's a starter going bad?

I haven't put a meter on the battery or alternator during the start, need a better helper than my wife.

Anyway I give up. I'm good at fixing things when I know what's wrong, but I can't figure out what's wrong. SOMEONE HELP ME.
 
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Old 06-04-2009, 12:10 AM
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Have you "load" tested the battery?

Other culprits could be dirty/ corroded connections........

John

I once owned a Pymouth Sportsman van , the alternator regulator

went bad, the wrong way!

All the lights/ windshield wipers/ heater blower were wild!

Running twice as fast and super bright!!!!
 
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:20 AM
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When I had the same problem on my Explorer it was a blown fuse. Replaced it & problem solved

Does your charge circuit wiring diagram show a generator/voltage regulator fuse? Is it blown?

Or does yours only show fuse links? One of those might be blown.
 
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:09 AM
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12.5 is too low a voltage with it running.
Sounds like a bad alternator.
But check all the connections from the battery to the alternator for your other problems.

Wiring:


/
 
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:41 PM
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I'm far from a pro on Fords, but I've had starter drag on Dodge vans that caused some problems like you are having. Don't know about these Fords, but it was a cheap and easy fix on the Mopar.
 
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Old 06-07-2009, 02:04 AM
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Here's what's happening.

Found the wire from the ignition switch to the starter (or from relay to starter) had at some point shorted out. Replaced that wire with new terminal connector some 10 guage wire and a lot of heat shrink. Fixed the hard start.

Put it all back together and happend to have the negitive battery terminal slip off with the van running and it stalled. Started it again and removed the terminal and it stalled again. Alt isn't putting out enough voltage at idle to fire the ignition system.

Started it pulled out the multi meter again. At idle 12.2vdc at the battery at idle. Turn on everything and it drops to 11.5. Pick up the idle a couple 100 rpm and 12.8. 2000 rpm 13.1. I need a new alternator.

The voltage regulator is attached to the back of the alt, but I can't find it sold separately anywhere. Any ideas.

Also when the ac kicks on should I get an rpm bump? If so how is that controlled. Idols just fine regardless of temperature.
 
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