Big brake kits?
#2
check these out....some are pricey but worth a look!
this one is a full replacement big brake kit which is very pricey
Brembo Gran Turismo Drilled Brake Kit
this one is a replacement rotor that will allow use of your stock calipers.
Baer Eradispeed Rotors, Baer Eradi Speed Plus 1 Rotors
hope this is what you were thinking of
~jstnromero
this one is a full replacement big brake kit which is very pricey
Brembo Gran Turismo Drilled Brake Kit
this one is a replacement rotor that will allow use of your stock calipers.
Baer Eradispeed Rotors, Baer Eradi Speed Plus 1 Rotors
hope this is what you were thinking of
~jstnromero
#5
#6
With regards to rotors, I have previously run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost as hard as stainless steel. Unfortunately, Brembo, Powerslot, Raybestos, Bendix, Hawk etc. are all purchasing their rotors from the same foundary in China (with the exception of the $300 each composite high end units for Ferrari, Porsche, etc). I am presently running “Frozen Rotors” from Diversified Cryogenics. They purchase the highest grade rotors made, laser mic them for quality, scrap the ones that are out of spec and cryogenically treat the good ones which are now as strong as stainless. They will also slot and cross drill the rotors for you. Their service, price and quality is excellent as well.
For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made. The staff at carbo can speak to you as well regarding those options, but I am very satisfied with the performance & wear of these products.
For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made. The staff at carbo can speak to you as well regarding those options, but I am very satisfied with the performance & wear of these products.
Last edited by TigerDan; 06-09-2009 at 12:03 AM. Reason: removed link and phone number
#7
Where did you hear this??? I ask because the last time we had this debate someone said that gm and ford stock rotors came from there too and we pointed out that wasn't true.....
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#8
For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made..
And i asked once before and never got an answer, is there a link to this testing that shows reduced efficiency??? I ask only because every test i've ever seen has shown better overall brake performance from them....
#10
Reply
I'll agree with you that gasses aren't the problem with street vehicles....which i'll agree that slotted rotors don't do much good.....but drilled rotors run cooler, which is a problem on our trucks....hot rotors are the main cause of warping....
And i asked once before and never got an answer, is there a link to this testing that shows reduced efficiency??? I ask only because every test i've ever seen has shown better overall brake performance from them....
And i asked once before and never got an answer, is there a link to this testing that shows reduced efficiency??? I ask only because every test i've ever seen has shown better overall brake performance from them....
2. All brake systems (pads/calipers/rotors, etc) have an operational temperature- both minimums and maximums. If you are operating within the range, even if the cross drilled rotors cooled the temps by lets say 10% (which is impossible on a street vehicle), that would be 90 degrees F- since 99% of the oem systems have max operational temp ranges of 900 degrees F; The optimum temp is around 600 degrees F- so if you cooled by 10% (which is impossible in a street vehicle) you would be reducing temps by 60 degrees.
Unless you have installed a pyrometer on your vehicle and have verified that you are operating at or near 900 degrees F, to install cross drilled rotors for the sake of cooling is worthless- the products are designed to operating in a specific temperature range (OEM's 0 to 900 degrees F- with the exception of hipo cars such as Corvette, Porsche, etc.).
What does make a difference are the materials ability to be resistant to temperature change created at the point of friction- for rorotrs that is a case of metalurgy, for the linings that is a case of material types.
This is why I use "Big Rigs" such as Fire Engines as an example....
Whether you look at an F150 or a Pierce Fire Engine, both have 4-wheel disc brakes...
The rotors are designed to operate in a specific temp range and the specs call for the rotors to be of certain size, diameter, thickness, etc. (of which the brake linings must be designed for as well) based upon the performance requirements/demands.
While cross drilled rotors are available for these vehicles, no mfg uses or recommends cross-drilled units for these big rigs- where these vehicles brake systems #1 destructive force is heat!....because of cost versus gain- there is no gain by using crossdrilled or slotted rotors in street applications.
In previous threads I gave you links, contact names, phone numbers- use them or shut up-
YOU ARE SIMPLY A MESSENGER OF ONE OF THESE AFTERMARKET COMPANIES WHO IS DISPELLING MARKETING MYTHS FOR THEIR PRODUCTS!
ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!
#11
#13
6,000 lbs trucks
big freaking rim/rubber combos (lots of rolling weight)
add some hard braking...or prolonged braking...or stop n' go traffic...sudden hard stops
it don't take much to warp a rotor. Especially if you do any of the above...or any combo of.
btw, how is a slotted rotor going to "cheese grater" the brake pads?
big freaking rim/rubber combos (lots of rolling weight)
add some hard braking...or prolonged braking...or stop n' go traffic...sudden hard stops
it don't take much to warp a rotor. Especially if you do any of the above...or any combo of.
btw, how is a slotted rotor going to "cheese grater" the brake pads?
I can see this on a very brand new rotor if it was improperly machined...but after the wear surfaces set?
it ain't gonna happen
it ain't gonna happen
#15
Heres the problem......companies making drilled rotors say they work better, improve stopping distance and run cooler...
Companies making non drilled rotors say they don't stop as well, that running cooler doesn't matter, and that they don't have an application that needs them....
All i can speak of is my personal experience.....
I've had cross drilled rotors on my 95 F-150 which had 35's on it....and warped the stock rotors twice.....put cross drilleds on and never warped them again...
I put cross drilleds on my fiance's 01 grand am after warping stock rotors, napa rotors, and brembo rotors......now 50K miles later still no warping (and it stops way better than stock, although yes...i did put on ceramic pads)
I've had cross drilled rotors on my 05 yamaha r6....
Have put them on a G6 for a friend and also a mustang for another friend....all of which drive like idiots and warped stock rotors....
As for the cheese-grater comment.....go run your hand over the back of a cheese grator (flat surface).....does it get cut up??? no because theres no way for the pad to deform down into the hole and catch on the edge......my fiance's car has had the same pads on the front since i did the brembo rotors....and now the cross drilleds with almost 60K miles on them and they're still probably 40 percent left....
As for rotor choice...its a decision you'll have to make on your own.....look at the rotors available, look at what vehicles run cross drilled rotors (high performance vehicles) and decide if they'll work well for you......I know my trucks getting a set later this summer....
Companies making non drilled rotors say they don't stop as well, that running cooler doesn't matter, and that they don't have an application that needs them....
All i can speak of is my personal experience.....
I've had cross drilled rotors on my 95 F-150 which had 35's on it....and warped the stock rotors twice.....put cross drilleds on and never warped them again...
I put cross drilleds on my fiance's 01 grand am after warping stock rotors, napa rotors, and brembo rotors......now 50K miles later still no warping (and it stops way better than stock, although yes...i did put on ceramic pads)
I've had cross drilled rotors on my 05 yamaha r6....
Have put them on a G6 for a friend and also a mustang for another friend....all of which drive like idiots and warped stock rotors....
As for the cheese-grater comment.....go run your hand over the back of a cheese grator (flat surface).....does it get cut up??? no because theres no way for the pad to deform down into the hole and catch on the edge......my fiance's car has had the same pads on the front since i did the brembo rotors....and now the cross drilleds with almost 60K miles on them and they're still probably 40 percent left....
As for rotor choice...its a decision you'll have to make on your own.....look at the rotors available, look at what vehicles run cross drilled rotors (high performance vehicles) and decide if they'll work well for you......I know my trucks getting a set later this summer....