NOTE: Rust flakes and silicate that combine in the system might collect in the oil cooler and be mistaken as casting sand.
Seems like to me you either need a coolant filter OR you need to flush your coolant system any time you:
overheat
over pressure
under pressure (failed coolant reservoir cap)
possibly if you used the wrong coolant or used the wrong additive (additives are not needed w/ Motorcraft Gold Coolant)
allow combustion gasses to enter the coolant (EGR cooler OR headgasket failure)
use hard water for dilution
incorrect dilution
heavy commercial use that includes excessive idling or sustained high speed driving at excessive GVWR load
Recommend checking coolant anticorrosion strength. Check the anticorrosion strength (nitrite level) of the coolant using the Rotunda 3-Way HD Antifreeze Test Strip Kit part number 328-00001 , 1-800-Rotunda (768-8632) option 2
or equivalent. Perform coolant anticorrosion strength at the frequencies recommended.
NOTE:
FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE SERVICE PROCEDURE AS INDICATED CAN RESULT IN INACCURATE TEST RESULTS.
DO NOT COLLECT FROM THE COOLANT RECOVERY OR OVERFLOW SYSTEM. COOLANT MUST BE BETWEEN 50 °F AND 130 °F (10 °C 54 °C) WHEN TESTED. ROOM TEMPERATURE IS PREFERRED.
Start with clean, dry hands and utensils.
Collect coolant sample from the radiator or petcock.
Remove one strip from the bottle. Do not touch the pads on the end of the strip.
Discard strip if nitrite test pad has turned brown.
Dip strip in coolant sample for one second, remove, and shake strip briskly to remove excess liquid.
FOR BEST RESULTS FOLLOW TEST TIMES CAREFULLY. USE A STOPWATCH OR CLOCK WITH A SWEEP SECOND HAND.
Wait 45 seconds but no longer than 75 seconds after dipping strip to compare and record results in the following order:
(1) Compare FREEZEPOINT (end pad) to color chart on bottle and record result.
(2) Compare NITRITE (end pad closest to handle) test to color chart on bottle.
(3) The middle pad is for MOLYBDATE which is not a performance measurement used in determining maintenance requirements for these applications.
It is okay to estimate a value between color blocks, but if uncertain about the color match, pick the lower numbered block, for example if nitrite color is between F and E, use column E.
Coolant test results:
If the nitrite level exceeds 800 parts per million (PPM), no action is required, anticorrosion strength meets specification.
If the nitrite level is between 300 PPM and 800 PPM, anticorrosion strength is low. Add 32 fluid ounces of Motorcraft iesel Cooling System Additive.
If nitrite level is less than 300 PPM, anticorrosion strength is very low and cannot be restored refer to Step 6.
Flush the cooling system with Motorcraft Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner and refill with 50/50 mix of Motorcraftâ Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water. A 50/50 mix of the Motorcraft Premium Gold
Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water provides the proper cooling system protection and nitrite level for operating temperatures to -34 °F (-36 °C).
CAUTION
DO NOT ADD MOTORCRAFT DIESEL COOLING SYSTEM ADDITIVE WHEN REFILLING THE COOLING SYSTEM AFTER A COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH WITH MOTORCRAFT ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM IRON CLEANER. THIS MAY LEAD TO
POSSIBLE ENGINE DAMAGE DUE TO VERY HIGH NITRITE LEVEL CONCENTRATIONS.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
VC-8 Motorcraft Diesel Cooling System Additive
VC-9 Motorcraft Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner
VC-7-B Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent
9C3Z-8101-A Pressure Relief Cap
328-00001 Rotunda 3-Way HD Antifreeze Test
Strip Kit (1-800-Rotunda (768-8632)
Refill capacity is 27.5 quarts. Install a 50/50 mix. In extremely cold environments, never excede 60%. In hot climates still maintain 50%. NEVER drop below 40%. Service at 105k miles and then every 45k miles thereafter.
__________________ Mark
06 F250 CC SB ESOF FX4 Lariat 3.73LS 275/65R20; DieselSite Coolant Filter; High Idle Mod; HFCM Plug; Zoodad/Air Fury grill; Accufab Elbow; RACCCV6000 filter; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in Transfer Case; Fumoto Valve; Harpooned fuel tank; Line-X; CPOhighway Products tool box; tracrac; Fox Weatherboots; Wet Okole Seat Covers; Stanadyne Performance & B2 for lubricity; PIE adapter (thanks Sarge); PIAA 24" wiper blades; updated EGR valve; BriteBox; Re-flashed; Fuel Pressure gauge; DashDaq on deck
__________________
'04 F250 KingRanch CC FX4 6.0 swb "BIG D" Tim
GO FLYERS!
Originally Posted by hubler13f When congress refuses to provide soldiers with the equipment to complete the mission. S.T.E.A.L. Sudden Transfer Of Equipment to an Alternate Location
So just to clarify if we are going with a 50/50 blend thats 13.5 quarts of coolant and 13.5 quarts of distilled water for 27 quarts total. or is it 27 quarts of coolant total
So just to clarify if we are going with a 50/50 blend thats 13.5 quarts of coolant and 13.5 quarts of distilled water for 27 quarts total. or is it 27 quarts of coolant total
Scott
13.75 quarts of coolant to be exact.
If you are flushing the system, Beachbumcook had a post on great procedure. It was several fills (4 or 5 IIRC) with distilled water, circulate, dump, repeat. After the dumping the distilled water from the last fill, add 13.75 quarts of Motorcraft Gold Coolant (or just go w/ 3.5 gallons to get close). Then just top off until full w/ distilled water.
Be aware that the dealership will flush with tap water. In my opinion this is why the recommended change interval after the initial one is essentially cut in half. Flush the system yourself as described in the link - you will be better off than having the dealership do it.
__________________ Mark
06 F250 CC SB ESOF FX4 Lariat 3.73LS 275/65R20; DieselSite Coolant Filter; High Idle Mod; HFCM Plug; Zoodad/Air Fury grill; Accufab Elbow; RACCCV6000 filter; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in Transfer Case; Fumoto Valve; Harpooned fuel tank; Line-X; CPOhighway Products tool box; tracrac; Fox Weatherboots; Wet Okole Seat Covers; Stanadyne Performance & B2 for lubricity; PIE adapter (thanks Sarge); PIAA 24" wiper blades; updated EGR valve; BriteBox; Re-flashed; Fuel Pressure gauge; DashDaq on deck
IAT (Inorganic Acid Technology) - This is the original old style antifreeze, FMC used this up through 2002 MY trucks, 2003 MY cars, usually Green in color. Service life 36k miles.
OAT (Organic Acid Technology) - Silicate free, GM started using this in 1996 called "Dex Cool" usually orange/red color. Meets Cat EC-1 requirements. This is used by Audi, Jaguar, Porsche, Volkswagen, Land Rover & most Asian vehicles. Service life up to 150k miles.
HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) - This is the newest antifreeze formula. It contains small amounts of Silicates to prolong aluminum component life and reduce cavitation wear of aluminum components. Ford started using this in 2003 MY trucks, 2004 MY cars (Ford "Gold" Coolant, WSS-M97B51-A1). This Coolant meets 'European G-05" specifiecations and is used by Ford, Chrysler, Mercedes, BMW & Volvo. Service life up to 100k miles.
Note: There is no such thing as "universal" antifreeze and color was never standardized, so do not use color alone to identify the antifreeze chemistry.
Ford standard - WSS-M97B51-A1 OR ASTM D 3306-00A
Compatible coolants for the Ford 6.0:
Ford "Gold" or Zerex G-05 or possibly Havoline Custom Made Antifreeze.
Interesting, the way they refer to nitrate strength as "corrosion protection," and the levels to which they call "in spec".
In Class-8 rigs, nitrate strength is referenced to the ability of the coolant to resist cavitation erosion of the cylinder liners, which is QUITE different than normal "corrosion".
Additionally, 1200 ppm is the "add" level, with 2400 being the preferred level.
What about an engine coolant system filter. I installed the Napa 4019 after having to replace the oil and egr cooler. The oil cooler was completely clogged with brownish grey sand. Anyone want to see a photo drop me an email and I will send you one of the cooler and junk in it. I put one of the marine inline fuel filters in the coolant return line from the filter so I could see the movement of the coolant. When first installed the coolant in the system was a little cloudy. Now a beautiful crystal clear golden color. System installed using the heater feed line and returning to the 3/8 line on the top corner of the radiator. Easy and effective.
What about an engine coolant system filter. I installed the Napa 4019 after having to replace the oil and egr cooler. The oil cooler was completely clogged with brownish grey sand. Anyone want to see a photo drop me an email and I will send you one of the cooler and junk in it. I put one of the marine inline fuel filters in the coolant return line from the filter so I could see the movement of the coolant. When first installed the coolant in the system was a little cloudy. Now a beautiful crystal clear golden color. System installed using the heater feed line and returning to the 3/8 line on the top corner of the radiator. Easy and effective.
Great....
One of the most popular coolant filter set-ups is the one that is sold by dieselsite.com.
Again a lot of great advise. I think a coolant fillter is going to be one of my first mods.
Ed
The photos that are shown in the 6.0L PSd section of the dieselsite.com website are ones I sent them after being so impressed with their system!!!!
The pictures are worth a 1,000 words and speak for themselves!!!
From day one, I have posted that a coolant filter should be everyone's first mod they put on their trucks... again... just look at what it removes from the inside of your motor!!!!!
After one gets the inside of their motor cleaned up, then you can start considering other mods... at least it will reduce many of the problems the 6.0L motor has with clogged EGR systems and the like.
Does it make a difference as to which manufacturer's you use?
Are the Penray TS-100 (50/btl) or TS102 (10/btl) just as good as the ones mentioned in previous posts?
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